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Damnation Buttress?
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pontusson


Jan 3, 2004, 3:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2001
Posts: 9

Damnation Buttress?  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Coos_County: Mt__Washington)
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Has anyone ever done damnation buttress in huntington? Any ideas about how hard the rock sections would get?


edge


Jan 3, 2004, 4:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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Re: Damnation Buttress? [In reply to]
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I'm assuming that you mean in Winter. Damnation Buttress is a great Winter outing, and you really won't need anything special. The rock sections are short and just add spice to an otherwise bland ice & snow outing. I did it with no rock protection at all, but it was one of the most enjoyable routes that I have done there. Go for it, and have fun!!!


jhump


Jan 4, 2004, 6:30 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2002
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Re: Damnation Buttress? [In reply to]
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I went up to do Damnation on December 27, 2003. It was warm and water was running behind all the ice in the ravine. We climbed (simul solo) up about half of damnation (mostly snow to this point), until you get to the first steep curtain. At this point we avoided the curtain (running water) by cutting left and climbing up an ice bulge heading toward a large chockstone blocking a rock gulley. We put a belay in the thicker ice under the chockstone. Sink a good nut and make drytool moves right and over the chockstone (maybe 5.6ish). Continue up the rock gulley (loose rock) until it opens into a snowy/brushy area and belay in the rocks. Two nice pitches of easy 5th class rock lie above- Climb the well featured slabs and cracks to the top. The final belay on top can be had by wedging yourself behind a huge boulder and hip belaying...old school. A fine outing, though I am not sure this was truly Damnation Buttress. I recommend this variation for its variety.

I placed some screws at the first belay under the chockstone, then a few stoppers and tcus in the rocks.


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