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radistrad


Mar 11, 2002, 7:03 AM
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Crack Machine
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Urgh! I typed for 20 minutes and then it told me I could not post.... I'm gonna post this and add the "crack macine" to the post...
I want to make sure I dont type for nothing again....
Krustyklimber saw some place that I mentioned I had a crack at home and asked me to post about it. Here you go Krusty.

[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-03-11 07:36 ]


radistrad


Mar 11, 2002, 7:29 AM
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Ok, looks like I'm climbing....
Crack machine, perhaps not the best name but I do beleive that the name for a home crack is "crack machine".
So, what I did to make a home made crack:
I have a 10' tall climbing wall that has a frame made out of 2x4's. I got (2) 2"x8"x12' borads, (5) 1/2"x12" bolts, (15) 1/2" nuts and (20)washers. Assembly: I took the two 2x8's and nailed them to the 2x4 frame of my wall, I then took a 1/2" brill bit and went to town on drilling the 5 holes through all 3 borads (the 2x4 frame and the two 2x8's).
I then removed the outer 2x8 and placed the bolts through the 2x4 and the one 2x8 (the head of the bolts got washers and the head is next to the 2x4, inside the wall, leaving the threads facing out). After placing the bolts I put a nut/washer on the bolts to bolt the 2x8 to the 2x4 (wall), next I placed another nut (adjuster nut) on the bolts followed by a washer (this nut backs up to the previous nut and the washer faces out). The next 2x8 is then placed onthe bolts and another nut/washer (adjuster nut) secures this 2x8 to the bolts.
Why so many nuts? The beauty is the nuts allow the two boards to be adjusted to any width. Simply turn the outside nut (adjuster nut) to the desired width and lock it in place with the inside nut (adjuster nut). Now I have a fully adjustable crack.
Some improvements I am planning on: 1st 5 bolts are too few, the last bolt is 2' from the top, when I jam above the last bolt I go into expando crack territory, this needs another bolt up top. The wood is slick and I want to add some textured paint, and maybe some small foot chips to help the feet a bit and reduce the pain (however, the feet are the most crucial part of climbing anything). I have heard of some crack machines with many many bolts so it can be bent into constricting shapes. I off set my bolts so I could flare the crack a bit. It is very parallel, and I feel that this helps build the skills and muscles. If there were constrictions it would not be as challenging.
Has any one else made a crack? Any suggestion on improving my crack?
Also I have another board that I am going to add to make a finger crack. I enjoy this home crack, I do sit starts, up and down laps, move from the crack to the wall and back.


[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-03-11 07:33 ]

[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-03-11 07:35 ]


krustyklimber


Mar 11, 2002, 4:36 PM
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Thanks, Rob

I had to read it a few times, but I think I get it.

You might try covering the insides with "deck tape", like on a skateboards, it's much faster and more durable than paint (it can be found at hardware stores cheaper than the skateshop)

If you could post a drawing, that would be cool! (I wouldn't be able to I can barely type )

Jeff


radistrad


Mar 11, 2002, 4:56 PM
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If I remember when I get home I'll snap a few pictures of it and post the pics. Hopefull that will help. I had to read it twice to make sure it was some what understandable. Making the crack was far easier than typing about it.
Deck tape is a good idea, although I dont want 60 grit.
I have to say that adding the crack to the wall has brought me back out to my home wall and rejuvinated my interest in it.


crackaddict


Mar 11, 2002, 7:04 PM
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Hey rad that is cool. I have the same set up in my bedroom. Looks like there some more crackheads out there after all.
I have six bolts total holding it together 2each 6inches from top and bottom and 2 in the middle. I also slightly offseted them. the thing is bomber. My wall is free standing overhung and can be adjusted different degrees. Home Depot has some textured wall covering that I am going to try. Its like stucco but smoother. I think Metolius has a textured paint for walls also. I thought about the grip tape but wanted to try something more real. I will also have to get a picture of mine and post it. I have been contemplating adding on to it as well. Because it just not enough!
Talk to you some more about it later.



[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-03-11 19:18 ]


krustyklimber


Mar 12, 2002, 2:03 AM
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Yeah,
Pic's would be rad, I had thought of something similar, but without the adjustability I'm stoked on your way though!!

It's SO cool we can share info, like that, here!

Yeah, on the deck tape, go with the smooth stuff I tried the rough stuff, on some of my home made wooden holds, it's too much for my hands and even a little harsh on my shoes! (it was so hard to remove that I just threw some of them away)

And Chris, let us know how the textured paint thing works out, with my wall being outside (in elements completely different to your outside), I will be painting it, AGAIN this summer (I just cannot seem to convince the 'lil woman I need to convert the spare bedroom into a gym, I mean... hey... her mom can sleep on the couch when she's in town right? NOT that is unless I want to forever after that! )

Impatiently awaiting Photos,
Jeff


gekolimit


Mar 12, 2002, 2:24 AM
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"I WANNA PICTURE!"


radistrad


Mar 12, 2002, 6:21 AM
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It was too dark when I got home last night to take a pic, atleast with my cheap digital camera. I will do it on wed or thursday and post 'em.
I am also able to adjust the angle of my wall. I mounted it to the side of my house with some brackets on the house attached to a 2' piece of 2x4 this attaches to the wall with some bolts at the 8' level. I can make it overhang or low angle. I prefer it steep.
I have been crack climbing in Yosemite a lot in the last year and I am totally a crack addict, my shoe laces are sliced through at the toe area from shoving my foot into cracks (hmmmm maybe a topic I'll post)
But the point is everything in Yosemite is steep, so having a steep wall to pratice on really helps.
I'll post the pics in a day or two (it will probably be thursday when the wife and child are at pre school).
Glad to see there are other crack machines out there.


apollodorus


Mar 12, 2002, 6:48 PM
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These guys that live near me made a fixed crack using 2x10 boards nailed together and nailed up to a tree. The really cool part was they coated the inside of the boards with Quik-Crete before they assembled the thing. They laid the boards on the ground, and smeared the concrete on in random thickness, to simulate a Yosemite-type hand crack.


crux_clipper


Mar 14, 2002, 4:05 AM
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You could also hire a router from a hardware shop, and create some funky features like incuts and slopers in the cracks.


radistrad


Mar 14, 2002, 9:53 AM
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I posted two photos of my wall. Look in my profile.


camhead


Mar 14, 2002, 11:04 AM
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I gotta build me one of those!!!
The other day I suggested to the worker at my gym that they get a couple different widths of cracks in there. He just looked at me like I was something he had scraped off of the bottom of his shoe.


krustyklimber


Mar 18, 2002, 1:04 AM
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Rob,
Thanks for the pic, it's just what I thought it would look like (except yours is on the left).

You have definitely gone over and above on your answer, KUDO's to you!! Your KrackKarma should be paid in full!!

Jeff


crackaddict


Mar 26, 2002, 2:06 AM
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Hey all,
I finally got some pictures posted of the crack wall on my profile album.
Check them out.
I have'nt gotten around to texturizing it yet because the weather in AZ is too nice to climb inside right now.
I will let you know when I do.
That is all I have to say right now.


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