|
bdclimber
Jan 6, 2004, 12:55 AM
Post #1 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2004
Posts: 24
|
Im looking to by new shoes got any sugestions?
|
|
|
|
|
realization
Jan 6, 2004, 1:52 AM
Post #2 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2003
Posts: 215
|
Before you buy shoes, ask yourself two questions...what type of climber are you? And what type of climbing will you be doing. Higher levels of climbing demand a higher level of shoe, and different types of climbing, i.e sport, trad, crack, indoor also require different types of shoes... be more specific and i'm sure we can get you some good sugestions.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Jan 6, 2004, 2:08 AM
Post #3 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
coldclimb moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Jan 6, 2004, 2:09 AM
Post #4 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
And also, doing a forum search will give you more answers than you could ever read. ;)
|
|
|
|
|
barefooter
Jan 6, 2004, 2:17 AM
Post #5 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2003
Posts: 74
|
Mad Rock Flash's
They're cheap, comfortable and the rubber is super sticky
I don't like the other Mad Rocks that have the ridge that runs around the front of the sole
|
|
|
|
|
pacemaker
Jan 6, 2004, 2:23 AM
Post #6 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2003
Posts: 2
|
I really like my Katanas for short stuff. Stiff enough to edge, but soft enough to feel the rock. I mostly climb at Crowder's, Rumbling Bald, and Table Rock.
I also have a pair of Cliffs from La Sportiva, which I now use as my indoor shoes and when I plan to wear them for 2 hours plus. They pretty much "inhale sharply". I wish I had bought something from Scarpa instead of being talked into the Cliffs, but because I was a beginner the sales dude recommended them. I have worn some friends and I think that Scarpa is good at combining comfort with performance and I believe they are good at making all-around shoes.
Every pair of 5.10's I have tried on have had funny feeling places where the rand meets for some reason and I know of at least one friend of mine who bought a pair labeled as 43's and one is definitely shorter than the other.
I have yet to try on the Mad Rock shoes. They look interesting. I'm interested to see what others have to say as my wife is actively looking for a new pair of rock shoes currently.
Later!
|
|
|
|
|
realization
Jan 6, 2004, 2:27 AM
Post #7 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2003
Posts: 215
|
I've heard very good things from a company called Evolve - they seem to be a pretty recent company, though many climbers seem to be switching over to their shoes very rapidly. Give'um a try www.evolvesports.com
|
|
|
|
|
lollipopchic
Jan 6, 2004, 4:45 AM
Post #8 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2003
Posts: 183
|
In reply to: And also, doing a forum search will give you more answers than you could ever read. ;)
Actually the forum search isn't working that well lately. Recently I was trying to find threads on the anasazi southwests and it came up with nothing! If you search for "shoes" in the gearhead forum, it only comes up with 41 matches... not many considering how many threads on shoes there are out there!
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jan 6, 2004, 1:49 PM
Post #9 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
since you dont know what exactly you want, im gonna suggest some allaround stars:
5.10 anasazi line (mesa is a little stiffer, so if you dont need smearing, but strong edging, its your best bet), zlipper
mad rock flash, mugen, frenzy
la sportiva miura, katana, mythos
|
|
|
|
|
okc_discgolfer
Jan 6, 2004, 2:04 PM
Post #10 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2003
Posts: 71
|
i think IMHO the best way to decide on a brand / style of shoe is to go the the store where they are sold. Try them on ....don't even bother with the brand name.
simply buy what is most comfortable/aggressive
i went to buy shes and DID NOT want madrock...but to my suprise they were the best fit and comfort level for the fit
i was planning on spending over 125$ just for my shoes.....i ended up spending 114$ and that was for shoes webbing and acc. cord
YES.... i know madrock will wear out quicker than most shoes...but JEEZZ at 70$ a pop what do you expect
p.s. personally i don't like the dual rubber on the "newer" madrocks cause you cant smear as well on the entire sole due to the harder rubber around the edge
|
|
|
|
|
richeyks
Jan 6, 2004, 5:52 PM
Post #11 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2003
Posts: 69
|
i just got my mad rock flashes so i recommend them... the ridged heeel makes it great for heel hooks to... i do suggest getting them no more than 1/2 size at the most smaller, i got mine at my street shoe size and i'm having a painful breakin period, but the shoes are great
|
|
|
|
|
outdoorclimber
Jan 6, 2004, 6:01 PM
Post #12 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2003
Posts: 22
|
I agree with realization. You need to know what type of climbing, and where. For instance, my first pair of shoes were terrible for the type of climbing I was doing (sport) but when i get them into cracks, my feet are loving 'em.
In my opinion, best beginner shoe is 5.10 mocasym
|
|
|
|
|
casco
Jan 9, 2004, 12:44 AM
Post #13 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2003
Posts: 279
|
If you`re a beginner, i´d suggest to try super-cheap brands, like the very known mad rock shoe, or maybe the mexican brands, like the Acopa Tezca. the Acopa is not so good allaround, it´s just a precise, not-so-sticky, and kinda soft climbing shoe, was my pair for my first climbing year, today I bought the anasazi southwest shoe, I`ll be sure to post about them just as soon as i have an opinion, well, take care...
|
|
|
|
|
oklimber
Jan 9, 2004, 1:11 AM
Post #14 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2003
Posts: 35
|
i just got a pair of madrock mugens for x mas i love them
|
|
|
|
|
realization
Jan 9, 2004, 1:46 AM
Post #15 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2003
Posts: 215
|
I agree... I don't think you could really go wrong with 5.10 Moccasyms.. Great OVERALL shoe, I know several climbers who climb hard stuff in them too, won't wear fast, C4 rubber and you can climb just about anything in them comfortably, and at 99 bucks what do you have to lose?
|
|
|
|
|
monkeyface1982
Jan 9, 2004, 1:00 PM
Post #16 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 34
|
my suggestion to all beginners looking for a first pair of shoes, find out what style of climbing you want, trad, sport etc etc etc...then look in mags and see what every one else is useing , ask around in a gym if you go,
but for me, i wish i had brought a good advanced shoe straight off the bat, i suffered for a long time in my first pair cause i didnt realise that they wernt right for my climbing style (no thanks to my local gym)
so i say, look around, see what every one else is got on, try everything you can on and note what feels good for you,
(trust me , most climbers are so lucky that they can try any pair of shoes on, i have the issues of them not making any good advanced shoes in 13US, 12Aust.47 Euro)
so try everything on,
make a desision on what style you want to climb,
and get what feels comfortable,
good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
drrock
Jan 9, 2004, 2:57 PM
Post #17 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2003
Posts: 610
|
Which shoe you choose doesn't matter as much as if they fit or not. Try them on. A lot of gyms that sell shoes will let you climb for an hour or two in them prior to shelling out the bucks. They will hurt for a while, but they stretch.
|
|
|
|
|
oudinardin
Jan 11, 2004, 4:52 PM
Post #18 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2002
Posts: 536
|
Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay, I peed in your shoes.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jan 11, 2004, 5:13 PM
Post #19 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
criteria for choosing shoes:
1. fit
2. rubber
3. prize
|
|
|
|
|
freeclimberchris
Jan 12, 2004, 3:22 PM
Post #20 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 21, 2003
Posts: 90
|
Don't get Mad Rock. They suck. After a few months they will be wearing down. katana by la sportiva or the five ten anasazi lace ups are good.
|
|
|
|
|
coylec
Jan 12, 2004, 4:55 PM
Post #21 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 2024
|
I've got two pair: a pair from Reebok (yes, they make climbing shoes) and a pair of la sportivas. The Reeboks are decent, though I haven't gotten much wear from them -- they are a little small for my feet, though they fit great when the temperature is below 60. Their sizes run large: I wear a 43.5/44 in Sportiva and my size 45 reeboks are tighter - they feel like Sportiva's 43s.
I love my Sportiva shoes. The Mantra S is great - its completely synthetic, so you don't have to worry about leather allegeries or breakdown. If you are a vegetarian or vegan, I'd look into shoes made with lorica. The only problem with it is that it tends to pick up other colors from the rock and paint (if you're on an indoor painted surface).
Other posts have it right - figure out what you want to spend, what you want to climb, rubber type and how the shoes fit. Get them a bit small, because they will expand, but if you can't get your foot in, its too tight. Check with your local outfitters - many rent climbing shoes. If they have the brand you are interested in, you can get a feel for their sizing system. If they have the model you want, you can get a demo of a broken-in shoe. You can also tell how well they handle under the rigors of a rental shoe. Keep in mind that rentals are the worst maintained shoes out there, but if its a 03 model shoe that is coming apart at the seams, you may want to consider another shoe. If its a 97 model shoe that has no color or grip, but the seams are great and its in good shape, you might have a winner.
|
|
|
|
|
oudinardin
Jan 18, 2004, 4:50 PM
Post #22 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2002
Posts: 536
|
oudinardin moved this from Gear Heads to Shoe Noobs.
|
|
|
|
|
andyw
Jan 22, 2004, 2:14 AM
Post #23 of 23
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 125
|
Boreal
Are a good brand they have lasted me 3 years and a few of my other freinds have the same brand but different styles so they are quite good.
|
|
|
|
|
|
