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Sport Climbing in Ontario
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meckk


Mar 15, 2002, 2:53 PM
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Sport Climbing in Ontario
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A quick question:

Is there anyone here who has been climbing near the Bruce Peninsula or anywhere else in Ontario, preferably around Huntsville? Are there any good climbs in this area? Let me know! Thanks!


redzit


Mar 15, 2002, 5:56 PM
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Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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hey man
there are three places near the bruce Pen. first is White bluff. Across a little bay from that is Lions Head, and the third place is a little to the south east, the T.V. Tower Crag. all are on the east side.
some gopod climbs...Wild Orchid. 12c.TvTower.
easier is To The bitter End. 10d. TV Tower
Pale Face 12d Tv Tower

go to your local Climbing store and Buy a book called A Sport Climbers Guide to Ontario Limestone. Great Book!

Hope this helps.
Redzit. aka Kevin

[ This Message was edited by: redzit on 2002-03-15 18:03 ]


saltamonte


Nov 22, 2004, 7:22 AM
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ontario climbing? [In reply to]
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is any of that near michigan


dtowler


Apr 5, 2011, 2:41 PM
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Re: [meckk] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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I'm having the same problem with finding sport climbing in Ontario. It seems like most crags have only a handful of sport routes. I live in Burlington and would love to get into sport before learning trad.

Any suggestions for sport crags in southern Ontario?


granite_grrl


Apr 5, 2011, 7:01 PM
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Re: [redzit] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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That guidebook is hard to come by these days it would seem. Worth asking around though.

Lots of sport on the Bruce, but also some good stuff in the Beaver Valley (Baldy, Metcalfe, even Devil's Glen has had some recent development). Best if you can find someone to head out with (with the hard to find guidebook and routes and areas that aren't even really in the old guidebook), or just be adventurous....there's something to be said about learning to rescue your own gear with a stick clip. Tongue

There has been promise of a new guidebook for a while now. Check out http://www.ontarioclimbing.com, it's a good place for Ontario news and has a pretty good forum.


ecade


Jun 23, 2011, 9:15 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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There are a few good places for sport in Ontario, but majority of the 5.10-11 range is trad, 5.12 is bolted.

The book has been out of print for a while now, another additions has been promised but still not available, I scanned my copy because I couldn't find another copy and feared it would soon deteriate into a useless pile of pulp. have digital copies of each section...


ecade


Jun 24, 2011, 6:27 AM
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Re: [dtowler] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Old Baldy seems to have the most, but i haven't gone yet, trying to get in july

Nemo has a few, possibly 6 or so routes in the 5.8-11 bolted range.

Metcalfe is similar, to Nemo but I think has a few more.

I've never climbed Lions head but i hear that it has a lot of sport routes.

If you want the book shoot me an email. ecade@rockclimbing.com

cheers


dagibbs


Jun 24, 2011, 7:43 AM
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Re: [dtowler] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Probably not close enough to be worth the trip -- but Calabogie, about an hour west of Ottawa, has some sport routes of varying difficulties. I'm not sure how many, as there was quite a bit of active bolting going on last summer and it wouldn't surprise me if that was continuing.


Kartessa


Jul 3, 2011, 6:52 AM
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Re: [ecade] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:

Nemo has a few, possibly 6 or so routes in the 5.8-11 bolted range.

Nemo's got lots more than 6 bolted routes at 5.11 and under, but NOTHING at 5.8, and Wide Load, the famous 5.9 is a death trap waiting for eager n00bs to be lured in by the easier grade.


ecade


Jul 3, 2011, 7:34 AM
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The 9 ain't so bad, could be an 8

Ain't a death trap if you stick clip second clip, just take the left traverse at 3rd clip with a tad of caution.

Some great tens, they just have some large run outs when going over juggy sections.

I'm all for bolting the shit out of the place but that's a whole different issue likely to raised WWIII


-Ry-


Jul 3, 2011, 8:35 AM
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Re: [ecade] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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In reply to:
The 9 ain't so bad, could be an 8

No. The start is polished to hell and insecure. It could easily be considered a 10 and if you're not lugging a stick clip to the crag it is unsafe for a >10+ leader.

In reply to:
Ain't a death trap if you stick clip second clip, just take the left traverse at 3rd clip with a tad of caution.

The rest of the route is well protected...

In reply to:
Some great tens, they just have some large run outs when going over juggy sections.

Most of the tens are reasonably well protected. Some routes have high first bolts, but I can't think of any runout juggy sections.

In reply to:
I'm all for bolting the shit out of the place but that's a whole different issue likely to raised WWIII

Nemo has a great history of traditional climbing and a slew of classic traditional routes.

Sorry for being an asshole but the information you provided was bunk. I don't know if it has been mentioned but there is a decent online guide for Mount Nemo available here: http://www.verticalaim.com/...index.php/mount-nemo


ecade


Jul 4, 2011, 7:15 AM
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Re: [-Ry-] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Beauty of Opinions and climbing: everyone has their own different ones and like climbing, it is often based on your own strengths and weaknesses.

Stick clips are certainly so heavy that they are "lugged" not easily carried, I know mine weighs less than 2lbs, and its back breaking.

I find the traverse sketchy but start easy provided second clip is sticked, but your opinion is surely the only non "bunked" one.

10C 3-4 routes to left has, IMHO, large juggy run out between 3 and 4th clip. The begining and latter part of the route is very well protected, especially if you've "lugged" that heavy stick clip and used on it the first clip.

I'd say the similar for the 10A two routes two to the left, 1 to the right of the 11, this has a very high first clip, difficult to stick without climbing the adjacent boulder and since the stick clip is so heavy to "lug" its difficult, but again opinions. From second clip up (past the tree that so graciously offers free rectal exams to those who fall) its fine as well.

Would you like me to continue I can give my opinion on all the sport routes that i've done there. But alas, I don't care too much to get on the that topic.

The topic of your post of interest to me is:
"Nemo has a great history of traditional climbing and a slew of classic traditional routes."

Accordingly, just a thought, with no desire to continue the discussion furthUr. If it was possible to bolt trad routes without impacting placement options then of what value is "the tradition of trad"? As a sport climber learning who is starting to learn trad, I have a hard time understanding why routes must be T or S. Who knows, perhaps one must be a self proclaimed asshole to understand the complexities of tradition. Personally, in my opinon, I guess I just have a hard time understanding why each individual, if not impeding anothers enjoyment, can't be free to decide their own method of protection and style of climbing. Surely we can agree that the simple argument of past tradition is fairly weak and in this province, where we don't really have that much to climb, futile and limiting.

Just thoughts and opinions, a beautiful thing that we all get to have our own, even if some self proclaimed assholes believe in their own beyond reproach.

Happy climbing, have a great season.


Sheldon


Jul 4, 2011, 7:42 AM
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Re: [ecade] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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By it's very nature you cannot bolt a trad route without effecting the trad placement. Negating the need or desire for the placement is effecting the placement. Even if the gear still fits.

Nemo is a different story though. It's more of a place where it should have been sport from day one. It's not the place to decide the precedent of bolting, trad, ethics, or really anything. It's a suburban pile of polished limestone, I don't understand why it twists so many panties.


wishiwasamonkey


Jul 4, 2011, 9:14 AM
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Re: [meckk] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Cape Croker is my fav sport crag in ontario. It's up on the bruce with lines in the 5.7 to 5.13 range. I think there are about 20 sport lines. Though I could be out to lunch as its been a while.


granite_grrl


Jul 4, 2011, 9:28 AM
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Re: [wishiwasamonkey] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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wishiwasamonkey wrote:
Cape Croker is my fav sport crag in ontario. It's up on the bruce with lines in the 5.7 to 5.13 range. I think there are about 20 sport lines. Though I could be out to lunch as its been a while.

I've only been there once and the poison ivy was terrible. Not that that says much, I was climbing elsewhere up on the Bruce this past weekend and the PI was pretty prolific in general.


ecade


Jul 4, 2011, 9:55 AM
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Re: [Sheldon] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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I think we both agree on many things, and perhaps, I do not understand your view because you have more experience than me and so, with all proper respects and courtesies:

By extrapolating your logic:

1. Is it then not possible to climb trad on a sport route, that was bolted, not because of lack of places for pro, but because of a desire to simply climb it as a sport route? I am new to trad, like really new, and so, perhaps it causes a psychological conflict but otherwise, I don't see why another's enjoyment and use of a publicly owned asset should be compromised for this reason.

2. How does one climb in a gym that has multiple routes on one rope or clipping path? Would it not similarly, "negate the need or desire" to stay on the route?

Personally and with all due respects, I fail to see how that argument is logical. I agree the sport is incredibly psychological but if one can climb in a gym under the auspicity that all other holds featuring different coloured tape do not exist, why can't one climb trad under the auspicity that all bolts do not exist. And furthermore, if you find yourself in a dicey situation where you can't determine the next placement and don't wish to fall or take on your gear, a bolt can be a friend, challenge by choice is a beautiful thing no?

Yes much the above is not advantageous if you are training for intense multi pitch trad routes, where you must be confident upon leaving belay. But again, not all are doing this and if we can share it, then why not share? Perhaps I just believe, too wholeheartedly, that everyone should have a right to do what they like provided they don't impede others and when I can't see the impediment, but feel impeded, I'm liable to question.

Cheers


Sheldon


Jul 4, 2011, 10:21 AM
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Re: [ecade] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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The argument that you're referring to has long been used, it's proper name is "don't clip them then" or something along that paraphrase.

I and many others have gone up sport routes without clipping a single bolt, that didn't make the experience trad. If anything, it only proved that the route maybe shouldn't have been bolted. Other times, it didn't prove anything because I didn't fall. The gear was untrustworthy. I had the option at any moment to clip into the bolt and end the farce. I was never committed.

In your logical loop as to why that shouldn't be such a big deal, you actually explained, pretty well, the reason why "don't clip them" doesn't work. Read below.

The gym trains your fingers and arms, it works your endurance, it probably hinders your footwork, and it keeps you sane over the winter or in a flat state. It's also a great place to make friends and/or laugh at the stupid stuff other gym users do. It's not climbing outside though, it's training. All the routes are the definition of contrived, they are usually eliminates, and utilization of the space is more important than absolute unencumbered movement. The opposite is basically true on rock.

It's not appropriate to take the guidelines used to train our fingers indoors and apply them to our leading mindset outdoors. A line is natural, with bolts or without. To quote the cliche, "climb the rock on it's terms, not yours".

You are beginning to understand though that many arguments of climbing styles are arbitrary. Just as I said earlier, I don't think Nemo is a trad area but others do. It's got a relatively happy marriage of sport and trad really. People go clip bolts on the safe fun routes, old men grumble, no-one climbs the shitty trad routes more than once, and more old men grumble. It sort of works.


-Ry-


Jul 4, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Re: [ecade] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Yes, the middle of As You Like It is runout at 5.8ish. All I said was that "most" of the 10s were "reasonably" protected but "some have high first bolts".

If you're mindful of the trees and your belayer is attentive they should not provide any surprise enemas on Live Bait or Stand and Deliver.

I'm not going to respond to your paragraph regarding traditional practices. As you age as a climber you'll gain awareness.

And climbing in Ontario, barring access problems, is not limited, but extensive. There are manymany obscure areas and areas of potential development in both the Beaver Valley, the Bruce and Milton.


Kartessa


Jul 4, 2011, 7:55 PM
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Re: [ecade] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Who the hell pissed in your cornflakes?

How about after you're done grid-bolting all the old trad routes, you should chip all the 5.12s to make the holds "better" like a 5.9.

No, bolting the shit out of a crag like Nemo just invites all the gym douche bags to come and gang-bang-toprope/sport climb the shit out of it. Leave the firetrucks at Rattlesnake point, we don't need to be inviting retards to come clip a 5.4.


binrat


Aug 29, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] Sport Climbing in Ontario [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
No, bolting the shit out of a crag like Nemo just invites all the gym douche bags to come and gang-bang-toprope/sport climb the shit out of it. Leave the firetrucks at Rattlesnake point, we don't need to be inviting retards to come clip a 5.4.
Are we alittle cranky there??
To the OP:
There are lots of moderate sport routes in Ontario. If you ask the right people you may find them. There's Metcafle Rock with routes 5.6 and up (which are not in the data base here) as well as a few other spots.


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