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Hey, you gota do what you gota do hehe
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miagi


Mar 16, 2002, 7:08 AM
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Hey, you gota do what you gota do hehe
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I was just on this new section of my usual crag and there was a spot where keeping my center of balance was pretty hard. So, since my hands were tied up I used my head lol. I leaned my head up against the rock to pull my weight into the rock. My companions were laughing but hey, I sent the crag. Anyone else use their head? Physically? lol


floof


Mar 16, 2002, 7:41 AM
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since my noggin is just a block of dead weight, I use it all the time for balance.

and for forehead smears


gilthanass


Mar 16, 2002, 8:21 AM
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  I have used my head to help me get my balence under roofs before .

Steve


metoliusmunchkin


Mar 16, 2002, 8:31 AM
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There are no rules in this sport. This is perhaps why there are those who do not even appraise climbing to be an actual sport. It is because of its lack of rules and lack of restraints that I love climbing so much.

While you are upon the rock, there are absolutely no restrictions. You can use whatever part of your body needed, as long as you can get to the top without hurting yourself too deleteriously.

Personally I have never actually used the 'head smearing' technique, or any other movements involving head placements, though I see how it could be useful in abstract situations.

In one scene of 'Masters of Stone III - Third Stone from the Sun' there is a french climber (I cannot remember his name, however I do know that it was not Tribout) who, in order to send a difficult sequence, pulled his body toward the rock in such a way that he was in an upside-down position. Once here, placed the back of his head against a ledge, and thus continued to climb. Pretty impressive.

It is quite rare when a situation like this should arise, though when it does, I would not hesitate for one second to use this technique.


miagi


Mar 16, 2002, 11:23 AM
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LoL i just think thats funny using the term smear with either forehead or head. But like i said you gota do what you gota do


crackaddict


Mar 26, 2002, 2:14 AM
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There is this traverse at a local bouldering area that I do where I use my head. It is over hanging like a wave and your feet are on a ledge. The deal is that your hands are in front of you. You lock your head under the overhang and it frees your hands to get better holds on the overhang. Kind of wierd but it works.
Later.


phil_nev


Mar 26, 2002, 3:56 AM
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check out the this picture, the guy that lead it stuck his head in a roof flake, and rested there for like 5 mins, shaking out and looking for placements, i tried it but i coulkdnt get my head in with a helmet on....

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=3431


radistrad


Mar 26, 2002, 7:18 AM
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I've got a buddy that does lots of head jams, I dont think he has much to hurt in there. most of us cut up our hands while crack climbing, he's the only one with scars on his forehead.


sheppe


Mar 26, 2002, 8:37 AM
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Quote:
deleteriously?
Munchkin your prolix pleonasmic furbelow incontrovertibly belie your hebetude.
Kindly refrain from further rodomontade
young hobbledehoy. The veritable wise raconteurs refrain from sophomoric logorrhea, rather clearly and CONCISELY convey their message extirpating hyperbole---paramountly
Keeping It Simple Son*

* genially refrained from other palpable moniker




To answer the poster's question, I use my chin sometimes - does that count?

-Sheppe

PS: 'pleonasmic' should be 'pleonastic'. (grin) Sorry, I'm anal.



[ This Message was edited by: sheppe on 2002-03-26 08:44 ]


fiend


Mar 26, 2002, 8:37 AM
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I'm told there's a natural formation in Hueco which allows you to slide your head up into it (it's underneath a roof) twist your head around and into a comfortable position and get a no-hands, no-feet rest by hanging from your chin and the back of your head. That's the rumor anyways


miagi


Mar 26, 2002, 11:15 AM
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I dont even think its that hard to use your head. Its pretty simple actually. There really is no strain or pressure when you do it...considering what you do of course.


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