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kriso9tails
Aug 3, 2001, 3:15 AM
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There's not normally alot of competition to name new routes. Whoever has the first ascent (or set the project) has the rights on the name, which will stick as soon as it's publicized (oral or documented). I guess the naming has to be based on the honour system if there is a problem, but I don't think it's too common. I might be wrong though (anyone know otherwise?)
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kagunkie
Aug 3, 2001, 4:32 AM
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Im not so sure theres much honor left in our system anymore.
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manboy
Aug 3, 2001, 4:36 AM
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the person who equip's a route (bolts it) does not have the right to name it, the person who get the First Ascent (FA) does (who ever red-point's it first). usally this is the same as the person who bolts it, but not always.
the only case where there is a dispute over a name is when the person who bolted it, names it before it get's a First Ascent (while it's still a project) and somebody else get's the FA. that person (who ever got the FA) has the right to change the name or call it what ever they want (this situation is very rare).
Example: Joe bolt's a route that it is too hard for him to climb but he names it "Joe's Route". it is known to everybody for 10 years as "Joe's Route", but then one day Frank comes along and red-points it for it's first ascent (FA). Frank now has the right to name it what ever he wants, even if it had been referred to as "Joes Route" for many years, Joe never had the right to name it, Frank does. Frank can now call it "I am King"
The dispute comes because people were already referring to it as "Joe's Route", but the actual name of it is "I am King" because that is what Frank named it. i can think of only one case when this happened. a guy bolted a route and named it Batarang but never climbed it because it was too hard. it was a local famous route for several years (maybe 5 years), and everybody called it Batarang. then a guy came and redpointed it and re-named it Hole New World 5.13b. Now some people still call it Batarang even though the official name is Hole New World.
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manboy
Aug 3, 2001, 4:40 AM
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PS. the easy solution, don't name a route untill it has an FA. in a guide book it should be referred to as "Project".
Ben Moon had a project in England and for many years it was called "Ben Moons Project" and thought to be probably 5.15a, last year Steve McClure red-pointed it and named it Northern Lights 5.14d. there is no dispute because Ben never named it because he didn't climb it.
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kriso9tails
Aug 3, 2001, 4:59 AM
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I can see the room for dispute. If someone ran around bolting routes just to get recognition, and never was able to do them, then they shouldn't name name them. But if you had a project and somebody ran up it before and stole your route before you had the chance it would really suck. Like I said, I don't think it's often an issue, but I guess it could be. I agree that FA deserves the rights, however it's more of a pride thing that isn't all that important.
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