Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
Placing screws on lead
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beyond_gravity


Mar 16, 2002, 8:47 PM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2002
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Placing screws on lead
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Ok, so i know how to put em in, my question is, do you make a solid right tool placment and clip the rope to your leash on your right too to "catch" you incase you fall? I'l told to do this, but i get the funny feeling if I fall it's gonna pop and stab me in the neck or somthing.

Rock On,
Jeremy


agrauch


Mar 17, 2002, 2:13 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2001
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Assuming that you're placing the screw with your free right hand, you make a solid right tool placement at a height where you can comfortably get your hand in and out of the leash. A solid placement is crucial because dropping an axe sucks. Whether you clip the leash or not is a matter of personal preference.

I don't clip into my leash because I'd rather not bother. I don't like the extra fumbling involved with clipping a biner to the leash, clipping the rope, and undoing it all. You can avoid some of this nonsense by always having a biner clipped to your leash, but this is annoying since every time you make a placement the biner flops around. Depending on the axe you can clip a biner to the head, but that's even more annoying.

Still, I know a number of people who clip into their axe or drape the rope over the axe head because they added "security".



wallhammer


Mar 27, 2002, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2001
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give this a shot, it works well for me, but other people have tried and told me it does not wok for them. i am right handesd so i dont make a high placement with my right tool. instead i do a placement wher the pick is eye level. i then slide my arm futher in the leash so it stops at my elbow. i can then reach to my harness to pull a screw and then place it with my arm still attached in the leash. you can also place a crab with a screamern on the screw, attach the ropes to the crab and then bing the leash loop backnto your wrist. (this is one reason i perfer the less used and less liked BD twist leashes. its fun to be weird


wallhammer


Mar 27, 2002, 7:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2001
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god, my proof reading is worse than my spelling


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