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hazael
Jan 22, 2004, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 130
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Hi guys, this is my first report, so I'm new at it, but I felt I had to write it. This last sunday, actually jan-18-2004 some friends and I went to potrero for the first time except for casco, and I had the chance to onsight 2 routes... the cool thing about it is that the second route I was climbing suddenly became more difficult, God decided to take a piss on us, and a really big one.
I decided to keep on going up, it sounds like a stupid thing to do, specially when leading, but something kept me going up. I dare to say this was the best climbing of my life, the water started to run down the wall and the shoes didn't grab at all, it was cold and the wet sweater didn't allow me to move, so I took it of, and then realized that we were about 12 degrees, add the wind and the water... freaking cold! at last, I made it to the top of the climb I settled up the rope, but no other climbers were going to try the route due to the weather.
So I had to change the rope from the draws to the bolts in order to lower myself down. Once I was finished I noticed that I had no belaying or lowering with me. I asked my partners to tie a system to the rope so I could pull it up, but due to a crack in the wall and the inclination the system got stuck big time in the wall...
By the time, even my underpants were wet I couldn't feel my hands at all... adding the fact that one of the lines of the rope was stuck in the wall made me worry a little.
My only chance was the other line, so my friends tied another system to the other line and with the most care I have ever had to anything, I pulled it up. Thank God it arrived safely to the top so I could get to the floor again.
Cleaning up the route was a MI:3 due to the lack of cooperation from the shoes. I managed to get the ATC back along with all the equipment. I was still worried because of the cold, but after a couple of minutes on the floor my body started to shake and I felt my hands again.
I will never forget that day.
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roughster
Jan 22, 2004, 12:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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sounds like fun! Good job and grats on a great day!
( I have a morbid sense of fun as well :twisted: )
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casco
Jan 22, 2004, 1:08 AM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2003
Posts: 279
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yeah, itīs a day to remember... i was freezing my a$$ off (whatever that means literaly), while wearing a jacket. I remember trying to solo-climb to the ATC we were sending you, but, as I could see, we needed someone as crazy as you to take on such a feat, anyways, even if i hate rain due to logical circumstances, I wouldīve liked to have done the same.
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scotto
Jan 22, 2004, 1:20 AM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2003
Posts: 131
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another good reason to learn an alternate belay technique with just a carabiner......which reminds me I should probably learn one.
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hazael
Jan 22, 2004, 1:28 AM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 130
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Actually I know one, and I used it once (just to prove it works) but the only biners I had with me were the ones in the draws, so I had to give it a try every other way (the draw biners seemed very small and unsafe for that.
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scubasnyder
Jan 22, 2004, 1:30 AM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 1639
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should have used a carabiner for your rappel down
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