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Trouble increasing in grades, HELP!
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whyknot


Jan 22, 2004, 1:46 AM
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Trouble increasing in grades, HELP!
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Hi all. I climb pretty consistantly at V9 at my gym, even onsighting a few. However, I am having a lot of trouble breaking into V10's. I am getting very frustrated and I am either just too week or the routesetters don't really know what makes a V10, I'm not sure which. I know the better route setters can climb up to about V7 regularly, but they still set good harder problems too. I guess I am looking for some tips on how to get past this block in my improvement.


mich


Jan 22, 2004, 4:21 AM
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Build some routes yourself, climb more and if none of that helps: start some kind of specific training (power technique,...). And give it some time... As you go on in levels it becomes increasingly difficult to get to the next, the difference between V7 and V8 is smaller then the difference between V8 and V9 ...


vertical_reality


Jan 22, 2004, 6:13 AM
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Geez, I wish I had your problem.


greyicewater


Jan 22, 2004, 7:01 AM
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i'd be happy just climbing v9... that's awsome! but yeah, what they said


herm


Jan 22, 2004, 7:12 AM
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.........hmmmmm. Maybe V10 must be pretty hard.

[T0-]


awsclimber


Jan 22, 2004, 7:14 AM
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Umm, maybe I'm wrong, but i thought being able to consistently climb V9 put you at the prof. level. Anyone know what ABS Comps max at?


fuzzymonkey


Jan 22, 2004, 9:04 AM
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Geez, I wish I had your problem.
word


johnfromohio


Jan 22, 2004, 9:16 AM
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Umm, maybe I'm wrong, but i thought being able to consistently climb V9 put you at the prof. level. Anyone know what ABS Comps max at?

depends upon the event and none of them are actually graded but are given a point value. I know some regionals and national events might go to V12. I heard a rumor that mostly some problems at comps dont go above V12 due to the inability to work a route to death. I dont know this for sure but it would be an good idea to e-mail abs people to ask them.

Then point values are broken down into grades.

But umm ya my suggestion to mista troll is to climb outside and climb some V10's and V11's and then set up problems like that in the gym duh!!

Go to some comps and i am sure that you will find problems harder than V9.

If you do actually climb V9 and are seriously looking at trying to find how to climb V10's and V11's. Take a couple of weeks and travel, find those type of climbs, take extensive notes on them, photograph them and work on them while there.

I myself am merely buggling around the V4-V6 level but my one project outside I have ingrained into my head and I can describe every single move on it up to the highest point i have gotten.


whyknot


Jan 22, 2004, 4:13 PM
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.........hmmmmm. Maybe V10 must be pretty hard.

[T0-]

That's what I'm saying. V10 IS really hard. I just don't know why I can't send any of them. I mean, with all the other grades it's been like, I can do all of one level, most of the next, and maybe a few of the next. Now it's like, BAM, brick wall hard. I figured I would be able to do some 10's for sure, but I can't do any. Do you think the routesetters suck at setting V10?


tucsonalex


Jan 22, 2004, 4:21 PM
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Hi all. I climb pretty consistantly at V9 at my gym, even onsighting a few.

V9=5.13d, maybe your route setters don't know what V9 is either. Only a few people in the world onsight that hard. Go climb real rock. You might be humbled, then again maybe you really are that strong.


whyknot


Jan 22, 2004, 5:55 PM
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Quit being so harsh. It's not like I am the only one who says they climb V9. I do climb outside too. I just haven't found many problems that I can do as well. I don't feel like I can hold on the same outside. Seems like they rate things different too.


g-funk
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Jan 22, 2004, 6:23 PM
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Hey dude don't get defensive, it's not worth it.

If you're already climbing V9 that's outstanding. It sounds like you've made it all the way there without hitting a major plateau. I know of some people that have spent 4-6 months trying to break from 5.9 to 5.10a. Right now I'm hitting the same kind of plateau that you're experiencing, and I'm trying to get to V4. Be pleased with the progress you've already made.

Check out some training books on climbing. I haven't read it, but the one by Eric Horst is supposed to be wicked sweet. Train for a while, and then you oughta to start planning the epic road trip of killer problems. See where it takes you mate!

Best of luck.


moeman


Jan 22, 2004, 7:13 PM
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You may climb V9, but you only troll T0, at thats just week. Try wrking at progressing in THOSE grades.


tucsonalex


Jan 23, 2004, 8:33 AM
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Quit being so harsh. It's not like I am the only one who says they climb V9. I do climb outside too. I just haven't found many problems that I can do as well. I don't feel like I can hold on the same outside. Seems like they rate things different too.

Not to burst your bubble or anything, but if you climb V9 in your gym but can't climb it outside than you don't REALLY climb V9. I'm not saying that you're not strong, but it sounds like you and the route setters at your gym don't know what V9 or V10 is. Go work on some V9 and V10 testpeices outside, get a feel for the what the moves are like and see if your gym will let you set a few routes.


johnfromohio


Jan 23, 2004, 4:54 PM
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Quit being so harsh. It's not like I am the only one who says they climb V9. I do climb outside too. I just haven't found many problems that I can do as well. I don't feel like I can hold on the same outside. Seems like they rate things different too.

Not to burst your bubble or anything, but if you climb V9 in your gym but can't climb it outside than you don't REALLY climb V9. I'm not saying that you're not strong, but it sounds like you and the route setters at your gym don't know what V9 or V10 is. Go work on some V9 and V10 testpeices outside, get a feel for the what the moves are like and see if your gym will let you set a few routes.


i must say u took the words out of my mouth, in my gym i climb V2-V3 on their scale, yet when i go work problems outside I typically climb V4-V6

I think your gym may be a bit friendly on their ratings possibly.


aklaunch


Jan 23, 2004, 6:01 PM
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umm...

i call B.S on this post. the route setters at your gym must suck if you cant climb V10


hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah


alpinerock


Jan 31, 2004, 4:01 PM
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k, who else has signed up for extra sn's so they could troll incognito?


bellatoris


Feb 20, 2004, 12:42 PM
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man....i'm gonna work and train super hard for the rest of my life, and if i am incredibly lucky one day, i too will have your problem.


reprieve


Feb 20, 2004, 1:14 PM
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ok, I REALLY don't want to join the masses and call BS on this one

*BUT*

How did you get to be that good without knowing how to progress? V9 is a VERY high level of climbing, especially if you're onsighting them. So it makes me think that if you've gotten that good you should know how to improve, even how to deal with a plateau in your training. Just my impression, I'm not trying to pass judgement one way or the other.

In any case, I'd say the only way to get over this is to climb as many different things as possible, especially outdoors. Also if you can't seem to improve your bouldering you could spend some time climbing sport or trad, just to get away from the boulders for a while. Then come back and see if you improved.


brittamac


Feb 20, 2004, 1:25 PM
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Maybe you're confusing V9 with 5.9?


garrettk


Feb 26, 2004, 8:37 PM
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V9=5.13d, maybe your route setters don't know what V9 is either. Only a few people in the world onsight that hard.

Um yeah, this is a very inaccurate statement. More than a few people in the world onsight V9. I don't but I have I'd say I have nine friends or so alone who've onsighted V9. Onsighting V9 in the grand scheme of things isn't that hard when you're cranking really tough. And I'd say that V9=5.13d is pretty skewed too. I boulder V9 but um...I definitely can't send 5.13d let alone 5.13...or at least I haven't. I'd def say 5.13d is way harder...and yeah there arent' too many people in the world who can onsight that...but there are tons of climbers who you don't know who are WICKED strong.


innominato


Feb 26, 2004, 9:39 PM
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Steroids.


reprieve


Feb 26, 2004, 9:58 PM
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I'd say that V9=5.13d is pretty skewed too. I boulder V9 but um...I definitely can't send 5.13d let alone 5.13...or at least I haven't. I'd def say 5.13d is way harder...and yeah there arent' too many people in the world who can onsight that...but there are tons of climbers who you don't know who are WICKED strong.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php

He's right.... :roll:


bouldersdothebodygood


Feb 26, 2004, 10:00 PM
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ohhh ya!! i have been keeping an eye on this tread. its so funny :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: and that is all i will say :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: anyway and one more for good measure :lol:
and by the way i am just wondering if anyone has noticed that all the treads seem to be going like this one. mabey it is just me but seriously there are very few good threads anymore. and we have no one but ourselves to blame :(


reprieve


Feb 26, 2004, 10:00 PM
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V9=5.13d, maybe your route setters don't know what V9 is either. Only a few people in the world onsight that hard.

And I'd say that V9=5.13d is pretty skewed too. I boulder V9 but um...I definitely can't send 5.13d let alone 5.13...or at least I haven't. I'd def say 5.13d is way harder...and yeah there arent' too many people in the world who can onsight that...but there are tons of climbers who you don't know who are WICKED strong.

He's right, V9=5.13d.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php ... :roll:

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