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Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall
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blocx


Jan 24, 2004, 1:18 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
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Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall  (North_America: United_States: Utah: St__George: Crawdad_Canyon: Cartoon_Crag)
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Today we have set up 8 stainless steel anchors (with chains) on top of the most frequented routes of White Wall.

Adi and Patrick from BLOCX volunteered for this task, the anchors were sponsored by various climbers via the collection pot at the Summit Gym.

The routes with brand new anchors are:
Aimless/ Rainbow Connection (shared anchor)
Diana in Memory
First July/Opium War (shared anchor
Kick a Cloud (the new anchor is about 1.5 meter higher now on a better rest position, watch out for the last two bolts as they are rusty 8mm expansion bolts)
Kavadi (also here we placed the anchor higher, about two meter up and slightly to the right)
Nov'61
Classic Route
Kiyoshi Delight

White Wall has obviously not had many visitors in recent days. vegetation at the foot of the rock is back (actually good as there is less dust than before)...

enjoy the routes


tamanehsan


Jan 24, 2004, 2:26 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2002
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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good job guys! :D


blocx


Jan 24, 2004, 4:20 PM
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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ah yeas Mr Eshan, i forgot that Akmal was there, too, giving moral support while lepak at the ground :)

Mahen did the first ascent of Kavadi "extended", still somewhere around 6c+/7a.Last but not least Amy Tan who tried to redpoint Nov'61. ....


aje


Jan 26, 2004, 2:29 AM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2003
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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great stuff guys. Any idea if there's an alternative route into the place ? The garbage dump that we have to walk through to get there is kinda gross...

We were talking about clearing and extending the ridsect section of Nyamuk across to the right, adding new routes and hopefully being able to link it to White wall...is this a possibility ?


blocx


Jan 26, 2004, 4:32 PM
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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you are right, the access to whitewall is pretty rotten.

the clearing of nyamuk will take its course and we are indeed about to move towards the right. but you have to be aware that nyamuk ends about 100 m right of the actual routes. we went to scout the place: the sad thing is that right of the reddish rock there is another dump site! there also is a stinky canal what makes the place NOT the favorite access route to the sectors.

Please note that from this particular poit (end of Nyamuk) there is a stretch of about 500 m kampung houses till you reach another short crag. from this crag it takes another 150 m to Whitewall. Obviously the distance from Nyamuk is too far to be considered as an access route.

If you want to change the accessroute to Whitewall head a bit to the left from the actual access path and you can reach the crag from the left. Whatever you might try you still have to pass Kampung houses. I don't know about those houses to the left, I just hope that those people haven't chosen to live on a rubbish pile like so many others obviouly do.


arrowhead


Jan 28, 2004, 3:42 AM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2002
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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That's the darndest thing, really.

Sometime it's just downright embarrassing to bring tourist climbers over to some of the crags. Some months ago we had some Singaporean friends who wanted to check out White Wall, but the path there was so filthy and disgusting that we had all wanted to puke. We turned back halfway thru.

Anyone seen the site that used to be called Volleyball lately? Was there the other day and the whole area is now littered with debris - bricks, wood planks, rocks, etc. It's like a whole house had been wiped out by a major tornado. The junk stretched right to the foot of the wall, which meant that there isn't an inch of flat ground for you to stand on while belaying. Some British climbers stumbled upon the site the other day not knowing of the other climbing areas around. They certainly didn't look like they were enjoying themselves at Volleyball!


dragonloong


Jan 28, 2004, 6:23 AM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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Yah I Strongly Agree with arrowHead !

Last few week ago, I have friends from State , UTAH...

he was here with another 3 person.

He say why our climbing place so terrible....speciall on the way to White Wall, Volleyball and at Red Rock also..

I think we need to do something and tell TV3 ....the KaramSingh (Nature Reporter).....tell our government to take some action on this matter.

Our Government always support Extreme Sport like Rock Climbing, and this year budget 2004 , Government give about 3 Million just of Extreme Sport.....so why not we ask to have some good and clean + safe rock climbing area at Batu Cave? this can bring good image to Malaysia Tourism itself !.....

We can ask everyone (rockClimber) to put his or her signature ..and then we send to TV3...ask the KaramSingh Waliah.....to help us....
( I have a contact with KaramSingh - no worry)....

so guys what you guys think about this? at least we try something to save our ROck Climbing area in BatuCave...........(we have loss NANYANG WALL)...so i dont wan to loss another wall.....Think about it !??

I volunter to start this .....just need you guys support !


blocx


Jan 28, 2004, 9:05 AM
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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sometimes you have to talk to the people and not always blame the government.
what is the government anyway? isnt it elected by the people?
check out my long answer on the last thread>
I believe it is better to talk to the guys that live there and actually are personally responsable for causing all the rubbish. you achieve better and faster and longer lasting results instead of doing the bureaucratic detour


dragonloong


Jan 28, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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Re: Retro-Bolting: New anchors at White Wall [In reply to]
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GOOD....pat

i get your idea !

thanks...i let you know my plan to u personally...see can work or not? OK! see u at TEBONG Bouldering place. then we meeting on that matter !! hahaha


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