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casco
Jan 26, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2003
Posts: 279
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Last friday, I planned a trip to La Huasteca, 15 mins from my house, in which we were going to climb a 5.9 (onsight), and three 5.10aīs (onsight too) in the section where we were going to climb the 5.9, there is a very common route, a 5.9+ called 4 wise monkeys, and there were two neubs there who said they were gonna do that route, so, I saw them climbing, and went for the next route, geared up, hazael as my belayer. First, I felt freaked out with the first bolt, which was dangerous to fall from halfway there, but it was ok... the second bolt was not that hard, but required some side-climbing and clipping it below you, by this time, my friends were all saying I was pretty freaked out, that I wasnīt climbing ok for a 5.9. the third bolt was no trouble at all, but the fifth one, OMG was it horrible, looked so difficult, and the sixth one was about 12 feet away from the fifth one, i decided to keep on going towards the fifth, barely made it and yelled "This is definitely NOT a 5.9!!!" and someone replied "Nope, itīs a 5.10c. Used to be a 10b until I ripped two elemental handholds, one just beneath you and another one just above you. You just made it over the crux." Boy, did my blood fell below my knees, I rested for a little while and kept on going, I barely finished it with a berserking pullup to the anchor, which was another crux, just as hard as the first one, and proved myself better than the rock. From now on, if someone mistakes a 5.10c for a 5.9, you should call him (her) a Casco. ;)
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jefffski
Jan 29, 2004, 7:28 AM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 286
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reminds me of stephanies tears at upper malamute in squamish. a nice 5.9, but i went the wrong way and the climbing was hard! i finished it clean and thought that it was the hardest 5.9 i had ever done. it wasn't until a year later as i was perusing the guidebook that i realized my mistake. i was on a 5.11a. shows what you can do if no one tells you you can't.
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juanjo
Jan 29, 2004, 8:00 AM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2002
Posts: 213
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Me paso lo mismo la segunda vez que le di en punta me dijeron que era un 5.9 y en verdad era un 5.10D Vole como 6 veces en el crux hasta que escuche un murmullo de que la ruta era 10D no 9 pero ya estando ahi le segui intentando hasta que la mate. Los grados muchas veces son psicologicos ya van varias veces que le doy a una ruta sin saber que es la mato y luego me entero que era mucho mas dificil de lo que pensaba ser capaz de hacer! Bien por ti en lo personal nunca he punteado esa ruta prefiero darle a 11c protegido que a eso!!
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jcr
Mar 24, 2004, 6:55 AM
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Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317
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Went through same thing, thought it was a 5.10-, didnt finish it though (couldnt), but i just needed 3 more bolts to finish the 12 bolt route, turned out to be a 5.11d :shock: JC
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