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frolic
Jan 27, 2004, 12:36 AM
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Hey All,
I usually climb 3X/week. But I have some tendonitis in one elbow and need to rest it. First off, how long woud you reccommend taking off? Is slowing down enough, or should I lay off it completely? In the mean time, I don't want to lose strength in the rest of my body (especially core, back, forearms...), or my climbing technique for that matter. Any advice on the best way to stay in shape (for climbing) while "taking time off"?? Seems like a lot of you have struggled with bum elbows! :roll:
Thanks...
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bitsofsod
Jan 27, 2004, 2:28 AM
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I think this site needs a forum dedicated to tendonitis. :roll:
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climber49er
Jan 27, 2004, 2:37 AM
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I went through a time where both elbows hurt so much I could hardly lift my arms. Ate advil (or another anti-inflammitory) like crazy (within recommended usage), and gave myself about 3-4 weeks off. When I started climbing again, I came back climbing moderately for a while and have never had a problem with them since. (now my shoulders are givng me fits, but not as bad. :lol: )
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frolic
Jan 27, 2004, 5:06 PM
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Thanks, climber49er.
I know this is a topic that has been discussed in excess. I did read the other threads! I know rest is the answer! :roll: What I was asking is if anyone had any brilliant ideas on what to do while "resting" to maintain forearm strength...
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usmc_2tothetop
Jan 27, 2004, 5:21 PM
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what a great question. I have the same problem. And I really don't want to take the time off. My elbows ache. I think I campus too much. Its the same ache I used to have when I threw the dodge ball too hard in gym class back in highschool. I think ice helps alittle but all in all time off. Try to find something to grip. Silly putty ball. Rolled up newspaper. hand gripper......
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jstokey
Jan 27, 2004, 5:21 PM
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There are exercises that you can do. I have had elbow problems off and on for about year now. I try to stay on top of the exercises and vitamin I (ibuprofen). I had my doctor tell me that what you find in climbing is that you use some muscles exclusively and other very little in your arms. So I started doing arm workouts on my off days of climbing, nothing big at all just enough to work the muscles not being used. I would tell you what muscles and exercises to do, but I don’t know the names of them. If you think about most of what you are doing is like doing pull-ups when climbing counter that with doing push-ups. Hope that helps.
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jstokey
Jan 27, 2004, 5:22 PM
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There are exercises that you can do. I have had elbow problems off and on for about year now. I try to stay on top of the exercises and vitamin I (ibuprofen). I had my doctor tell me that what you find in climbing is that you use some muscles exclusively and other very little in your arms. So I started doing arm workouts on my off days of climbing, nothing big at all just enough to work the muscles not being used. I would tell you what muscles and exercises to do, but I don’t know the names of them. If you think about most of what you are doing is like doing pull-ups when climbing counter that with doing push-ups. Hope that helps.
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bitsofsod
Jan 27, 2004, 5:40 PM
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For me, a lot of rest, cortisone shots, physical therapy, ibuprofen, ice, some topical anti-inflammatory, ultrasound and exercises over an 18-month period (not resting for the whole time!) didn't work. What I was told (and what I've read) is that you need to back off completely until the pain is entirely gone. Then start back very slowly.
If you have pain on the outside of the elbow, then you probably have lateral epicondylitis. One exercise is to use a one-pound weight and do reverse curls, keeping your elbow bent at a 45-degree angle. Another is to strech a rubber band on the outside of your fingers (spreading your fingers). Stop immediately if you have elbow pain. I think you can still work on grip strength with that putty or by squeezing a tennis ball. However, some people say that the condition is caused by an imbalance in the opposing muscles, so if you're resting the one, you should probably rest both so you don't increase the imbalance.
I hope this helps! Good luck!
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cloudbreak
Jan 27, 2004, 6:23 PM
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In reply to: There are exercises that you can do. I have had elbow problems off and on for about year now. I try to stay on top of the exercises and vitamin I (ibuprofen). I had my doctor tell me that what you find in climbing is that you use some muscles exclusively and other very little in your arms. So I started doing arm workouts on my off days of climbing, nothing big at all just enough to work the muscles not being used. I would tell you what muscles and exercises to do, but I don’t know the names of them. If you think about most of what you are doing is like doing pull-ups when climbing counter that with doing push-ups. Hope that helps.
This is KEY!! I was getting the elbow pain off and on, usually after bouldering. I then started incorporating short workouts emphasizing the antagonist muscles, and the pain has not returned. Don't forget to stretch before you start climbing as well.
Everybody seems to want a quick fix. Well there's not. Taking Vitamin I while your climbing to cover the pain is only going to mask it, and in turn, make things worse. Address it in the right manner and you'll come out ahead.
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lunatixx
Jan 27, 2004, 6:34 PM
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i don't remember who suggested the push ups but it worked for me...instead of pulling like we all usually do.. pushing works on the opposite muscles... anyways i found it was magical :)
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victorjohn
Jan 27, 2004, 7:37 PM
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There is so much you can do that will relieve tendon pain apart from stopping completely. I wrestle with the onset of tendonitis from time to time. When I do, I find that I am always making the following mistakes:
I am climbing days back to back.
I am not doing pushups and dips at the end of my sessions.
I am not doing anything the strengthen my shoulders on a regular basis.
I am not stretching my arms adequately before I climb.
I also do yoga pretty regularly, and when I dont, I feel it. It is a lot as far as a maintenance program, but when I am in the habit, it is not hard to intergrate. At any rate, it beats not climbing and taking disgusting amounts of advil. While I was in the habit of doing that a few months ago, my bouldering went from V0 to V3 seemingly over night. I am now even able to crank a V5 and am working a V7 at my local crag.
My roped climbing improved dramatically as well. I just have had less pain to deal with overall. Since then I have gotten a bit sloppy tho, and I am starting to hurt again.
I hope this is encouraging. I learned this all from a local yoga instructor, so seek out an expert for advice.
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indigo_nite
Jan 27, 2004, 8:25 PM
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I have no medical expertise. if you can afford, a physical therapist would be the best resource.
there are websites that talk about tennis elbow and some weight exercises you can do to strengthen the opposing muscles (as others mentioned). hope that helps.
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endrizzi
Jan 28, 2004, 1:00 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=48013&highlight=dreez
and pushups.
Thanks for the pushup suggestion. Seems to work
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aimeerose
Feb 5, 2004, 5:51 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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Ugh, Soo much tendonitis in this darn sport. Why do we do this to ourselves?
I've read a lot of threads on climbing injuries (shoulders, fingers, etc.). I gathered what I and others know on the subject and made a website. I hope it helps.
http://www.ClimbingInjuries.com
-a
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travelin_light
Feb 5, 2004, 6:31 AM
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my doctor has told me that the best thing for tendonitis is complete rest. it kinda gripes me because i feel like there should be proactive exercises that should help with the recovery process.
i know that ibuprofen helps with the inflammation but is there anything that might help strengthen tendons? like vitamins or extracts? certain food groups; etc.? :?:
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noodlearms
Feb 5, 2004, 7:12 AM
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In reply to: my doctor has told me that the best thing for tendonitis is complete rest. it kinda gripes me because i feel like there should be proactive exercises that should help with the recovery process.
Is this a sports medicine doctor? If not, I think you can ignore this advice. To a GP, the answer to every sports related injury is "stop that activity completely".
My own experience is in line with something I read in a John Sherman book (I think). Something like this: "the best way to get over a climbing injury is to go climbing. The catch is, you can't climb anything that makes the injury hurt. If this means climbing 5.6, then climb 5.6. Too boring? Bring a newbie. Bring your mom." Etc.
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