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addrock
Jan 27, 2004, 8:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2004
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can you use the gri gri for self belay? if so is it safe and how does it work? i'm tired of waiting for a partner every time i want to climb.
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petsfed
Jan 27, 2004, 8:11 PM
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Please consult an experienced climber before you go and specifically attempt what the manufacturer does not build their product to do. It works, but the best way to learn how is with an experienced climber who knows the ins and outs of the system. Otherwise, you'll end up dead like I very nearly have, twice.
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diesel___smoke
Jan 27, 2004, 8:22 PM
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You might have had a partner who would have shown you how to use a grigri for self-belay roped soloing had you returned my last email. No, You cannot use a grigri for self belay - you don't have nearly enough experience to do so.
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justincoyle
Jan 27, 2004, 8:44 PM
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Wren Industries makes several devices that are intended to be used for self belay unlike the gri gri. You still should find some one who is expericened in roped soloing before trying it yourself
www.wrenindustries.com
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climbsomething
Jan 27, 2004, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: can you use the gri gri for self belay? if so is it safe and how does it work? i'm tired of waiting for a partner every time i want to climb. |
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duckwalk
Jan 27, 2004, 9:43 PM
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You may want to look at cheap alternatinves that are actually built with self belay in mind. The one I use is the petzl microascender ( It locks aroung the rope so there is less chance of mishap ) Back things up with a prussik.
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bubba
Jan 27, 2004, 10:22 PM
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Duck,
I don't think the petzl microcender is designed for self-belay use.
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roughster
Jan 27, 2004, 10:25 PM
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yes it can be used for Self Belay. I would be careful with it though as it is not exactly perfectly intuitive on how you would do it. Best to find someone who can show you how, or as also mentioned, there are other options like the Silent Partner which may be a little better for dedicated rope soloing if your going to do it alot.
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drkodos
Jan 27, 2004, 10:31 PM
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In reply to: can you use the gri gri for self belay?
Yes. I often do. But only for self-belay on toprope.
In reply to: if so is it safe
Nothing in climbing is ever: safe. If you are comfortable exposing yourself to more risk than having a human on the belay end by using the correct mixture of knowledge and experience, risk can be reduced to manageable proportions. Again, nothing in climbing is ever safe, and this is a less safe method than other alternatives to acheive the same ends.
Bouldering could be safer ~ in the end its up to you and the decisions you and your brain conspire to concoct.
In reply to: and how does it work?
Using a single line from a fixed anchor point, I attach the gri-gri to the harness, then feed the rope as per the easy-to-use diagram cast into the side of the gri-gri. I back-up with a prussik placed above the device. As I climb, I slide prussik, and pull rope through the belay end of the device.
Similar to using it as a rappel device, with a back-up. It shows how to in the instruction manual (petzl manuals are filled with info).
In reply to: i'm tired of waiting for a partner every time i want to climb.
Networking.
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lm
Jan 28, 2004, 3:53 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2003
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I also use the gri gri for self belay on top rope.
The diameter of the rope is an important consideration though. The larger the diameter the more easily it will lock off when placed under load. Ropes of less than 10mm might be of concern. When I use a gri gri for self belay I use a 10.5mm rope. It definitely inspires more confidence than something smaller. I definitely would never use anything smaller than 9.8 for self belay.
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climbon_stone
Jan 28, 2004, 4:20 PM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2004
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I get it......kinda like jummaring? :D that or mabe im completly lost....ive seen the route setters do it tho. cool, i gots me some more knowlage!
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mustclimb69
Jan 28, 2004, 4:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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Im going to say NO...
It doesnt self feed and there is a possibility of it not locking if you fall inverted. You would be better off with an ascender or a solistand a hanging rope (weight it so it is tight)
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chuffinator
Feb 10, 2004, 6:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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You can, and if you do make sure you tie back up knots in the rope. If the cam fails you are backed up.
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coylec
Feb 11, 2004, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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The Gri-Gri is not intended for usage as a self-belay device. Additionally, the device is printed with instructions not use rope smaller than 10mm, though some claim the instructions say you can use 9.7 or 9.8 mm or larger.
That being said, I used to use the gri-gri to self-belay on top-rope while setting routes at the gym I work at. I have since replaced it with another method (ATC + prussik). I don't trust gri-gri's at all, even for their intended purpose (i think they produce slack belayers).
If you are going to use the gri-gri as your primary belay device, you definately need to use a backup. A prussik is very effective, IMHO. However, it must be done properly. Tying knots below is also effective, though if the gri-gri fails, you will have a significant drop that will stress your anchors, rope, gri-gri and body. It is not designed to slam into knots, so you run the risk of damaging the gri-gri as well.
If you need partners, post in the partner's forum or hang out at your gym. If you're in the SE, PM me .. I'll climb with you.
I don't want to sound like a prick, but diesel_smoke makes a valid point -- if you are uncertain as to the function of gear and how it operates, you should probably not use it to protect your life. Seeking qualified instruciton (read: not me) from a guide (preferably AMGA or other cert'd) is a smart idea. Petzl posts the technical manuals for their products online -- they are boring but highly useful reading.
And wear a helmet.
coylec
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