|
jcclimber
Mar 18, 2002, 2:33 PM
Post #1 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2002
Posts: 62
|
I will be in Redrocks, NV on the 23rd of March and will probably be staying for about a week. I will be trad climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering so if your interested let me know!
|
|
|
|
|
jetace
Mar 19, 2002, 7:20 PM
Post #2 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2002
Posts: 68
|
Hey, I'm from Klamath Falls, OR. I will be at red rocks for spring break too, we are traveling on the 23rd, we will be climbing prince of darkness, 510b, all day sunday, its a 7 pitch climb so it will take us all day, we will be there early morning, feel free to stop by and say hi... maybe we could team up for some fun routes the next day... monday as I have some good trad gear too, my email is goofjai@aol.com write back!
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
crackaddict
Mar 19, 2002, 8:01 PM
Post #3 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
|
Some advice about prince of darkness. Last weekend we went to do it but got denied due to ice fall and snow flurries. If there is a lot of snow still there. Watch out! Every time a gust of wind blew, tons of golf ball sized ice came down the route, smashing into the belays. Hopefully for you guys the snow will be melted by then. Just thought I would give you a heads up of what to expect. Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
jetace
Mar 19, 2002, 9:52 PM
Post #4 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2002
Posts: 68
|
thanks for the advice, has anyone been there more recently? If so, has the snow melted at all?
|
|
|
|
|
crap
Mar 20, 2002, 11:40 AM
Post #5 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2002
Posts: 491
|
It snowed quite a bit on Monday Mar 18, but today Mar 20 we are expecting 80 degree weather now tell Mon. All cold related miseries should be gone by Mar 23. I'll be in J-tree my spring break.
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Mar 20, 2002, 12:22 PM
Post #6 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
I believe Prince of Darkness is only 5 pitches. I bailed at the top of #3 when it started snowing in mid February. Bring lots of quickdraws (18+) and a belay seat and/or comfy harness and 2 ropes.
Also be solid at the grade. Don't mean to be disrespectful but it ain't no sport climb. As sport routes go it is pretty runout. 15 feet between bolts is the norm meaning that you can't hangdog through the hard parts.
|
|
|
|
|
jetace
Mar 20, 2002, 5:09 PM
Post #7 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2002
Posts: 68
|
Wigglestick,
Can you use any trad on those really long runouts, let me know
Rock On
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Mar 21, 2002, 9:27 AM
Post #8 of 8
(1986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
Not really. You will need some trad gear for the first (5.6 75') pitch. My partner placed 2 medium sized stoppers. The second pitch is all face moves and I doubt you could supplement the bolts with trad gear. Even if you got creative with some small nuts I doubt they would be worthwhile. The third pitch has one spot where it is about 30' between bolts. I placed a #1.5 offset friend in the flaring crack that angles up and right. You could get a medium stopper in there too. I don't know about the 4th and 5th pitches because I bailed from the top of #3 while dodging hailstones. I have some kind of crappy pictures that might help you see trad placements but I doubt it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
