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dbrayack
Feb 9, 2004, 9:10 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Ok two things:
1. The biners on the fixed draws have been replaced where needed, however, I did not have any tape, so if someone gets to it before me, a few wraps of tape on a couple of the biners would help "so they dont flip upside down".
2. How hard is it from the last bolt to the finish "the last fixed draw is the last bolt I saw, but from there up, it was wet and about 20 feet to the shuts".
Thanks,
-Danno
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leaverbiner
Feb 25, 2004, 11:41 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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Dan - what happened to the biners that were there? They were at most a year old.
Anyway, the climbing from the last draw to the shuts is a cake walk. At the last fixed draw (which I beleive was the only fixed draw when I did the route, a very long draw that if often difficult to clip) you have a big move out right, a somewhat blind slap to a jug that usually has a goo dtick next to it. Then you go up left to pull the lip of the roof, once you get your body up and over the lip, the rest of the climbing is MAYBE 5.8 could be easier, all the way to the shuts, ridiculous hands and huge feet!!
It's a fun, route and probably the easiest 12b you'll ever climb . . . now with fixed draws it is even less intimidating because you have no fears of having to get through the crux to clean your gear, and you never have to actually clean your gear which used to entail re-climbing the route on top rope!
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unabonger
Mar 1, 2004, 1:57 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2003
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I'm happy to see those replaced: The biners, however old, were not in good shape. Fixed draws should really use steel biners, most of those were aluminum.
Thanks db.
UnaBonger
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dbrayack
Apr 28, 2004, 7:39 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Why steel? Aluminum doesnt weather, but steel does?
IF anything you'd think that you would want exclusively aluminum
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