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Partner pianomahnn


Mar 24, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Critiques of my beta version of the Beginner's Guide to Clim
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This is the VERY beta version of the Beginner's guide to climbing. Please offer up your ideas of things that could be added, or things that you don't think belong. This is YOUR guide, and it should fit what you want to know.


Partner pianomahnn


Mar 24, 2002, 8:13 PM
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Beginner’s Online Guide to Climbing!
  • I. Introduction
    • a. Climbing is dangerous
      • i. Falling Rocks
      • ii. Human Error
      • iii. Wildlife
      • iv. Weather
      • v. Other “Acts of God”


    • b. Liability
      • i. No liability for information within. Climbing is yada yada yada


    • c. Brief history of climbing
      • i. First big wallers
      • ii. Mountaineers
      • iii. Pioneers of Bouldering/Sport






  • II. Basics to beginning climbing
    • a. Ropes
      • i. Static
      • ii. Dynamic


    • b. Shoes
      • i. Trad
      • ii. Sport
      • iii. Boulder
      • iv. Rubber
      • v. Laces/Velcro/Slipper
      • vi. Resoling


    • c. Harnesses
      • i. Fit
      • ii. Comfort
      • iii. Brands and Types


    • d. Belay Tools
      • i. ATC/Tuber/Jaws
      • ii. Self Belaying Tools


    • e. Knots
      • i. Figure 8
      • ii. Double Bowline
      • iii. I know there are more…


    • f. Other Misc. Items
      • i. Webbing
      • ii. Caribiners (could be own section. . .)


    • g. Safety
      • i. Double Check
      • ii. Awareness
      • iii. Helmets
      • iv. Weather
      • v. Wildlife





  • III. Basic Climbing/Belaying Techniques
    • a. Liability – Not meant as a substitute for real life training

    • b. Belaying
      • i. Double Check
      • ii. Importance of Break Hand


    • c. Climbing
      • i. Footwork
      • ii. Energy Conservation





  • IV. Types of climbing
    • a. Bouldering
      • i. Equipment
      • ii. Safety Precautions


    • b. Sport
      • i. Equipment
      • ii. Safety Precautions


    • c. Trad
      • i. Equipment
      • ii. Safety Precautions


    • d. Aid/Bigwall
      • i. Equipment
      • ii. Safety Precautions


    • e. Ice
      • i. Equipment
      • ii. Safety Precautions


    • f. Mountaineering
      • i. Equipment
      • ii. Safety Precautions





  • V. Indoor climbing
    • a. Difference

    • b. Value of an indoor gym
      • i. Training
      • ii. More controlled
      • iii. Safe place to learn basic techniques


    • c. Safety
      • i. Crowded
      • ii. Awareness is important





  • VI. Training/Staying Healthy
    • a. Stretching
    • b. Exercises
    • c. Overworking



miagi


Mar 24, 2002, 8:41 PM
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A few things that come to mind are
1. A list of very common climbing terms for the newcomer. The trailside guide has 4 pages of about 25 words to know.
2. For your safety. You should add things to do in an emergency. IE: Escaping the belay, self rescue, things you should bring in case of an accident ect.
3. For carabiners you can explain about the major and minor axis and how they are not ment to be loaded at 3 points and so forth.

Basically Chris im looking off of that Trailside guide to Rock Climbing. It is the most down to earth and easiest explained book ive read on climbing for the beginner. It doesnt get into too much detail like the AFALCON GUIDE's TO CLIMBING, but it still retains its safety issues and major educational points. Its 191 pages of info, and all of it is relevant. It really doesnt babble along needless points. Your points are very good, im just suggesting that you look through the book (if you or someone has it) to see if there are any points you missed.


jackflash


Mar 24, 2002, 8:45 PM
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Where's the much neglected top-rope section?

You might want to add equipment failure to the list of dangers, although most of that would probably fall under human error.


Partner pianomahnn


Mar 24, 2002, 8:48 PM
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Hmmmm...Top Rope, totally forgot about that one.


jackflash


Mar 24, 2002, 8:55 PM
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A section on climbing ethics might be useful as well.

Maybe when you're busy writing this manual the rest of us can catch up to you in posts.


krustyklimber


Mar 24, 2002, 9:22 PM
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Chris,
Looks good , maybe a section on impact... to the areas below the crag, and to the community that they are in, or near.

Jeff


Partner pianomahnn


Mar 24, 2002, 9:46 PM
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There are issues if climbing ethics (if added) I would definatly stay away from; bolting/pitons/etc. Baaaaaaad mojo there.

I could see about explaining the importance of low/no impact to environment.



maculated


Mar 24, 2002, 10:01 PM
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How about rapelling? That's a pretty basic skill that people need to know how to do. I also know a lot of people who don't know what to do in case rapelling doesn't go smoothly. Things people who are just starting out should know.

Also, setting up anchors? I know this can get dangerous but in general, I think there needs to be something said here.

BTW, I'm a decent artist if you need any drawings done.


talons05


Mar 24, 2002, 10:01 PM
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How about a history of trad climbing eh? I don't see that one on there...

AW


Partner pianomahnn


Mar 25, 2002, 5:33 AM
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That's why this is the VERY beta version.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 25, 2002, 5:53 AM
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I think the Leave No Trace Ethic should be taught to all beginners, as this will lead to good habits, and responsible climbers.

It's much harder to fix bad habits learned early.



rrrADAM


qacwac


Mar 25, 2002, 6:16 AM
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Looks good Chris.

I think the leave no trace is a good thing to add.
Rather than write a new dictionary use the website's put up by fiend. There could easily be a link to the dictionary or if you want to get fancy have the first appearance of climbing specific words hyperlinked directly to the word in the dictionary.
I imagine you'll have chalk and chalkbags somewhere.
Could also have Figure 8 in basic tools.
Perhaps a section on planning a trip.


crazywacky


Mar 25, 2002, 6:34 AM
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Very nice. Professional even..

Only one suggestion from me...maybe put the Liability Information/Disclaimer right up front. Before the TOC even..like page "I" instead of page "1" or whatever.

Decreases the chances of it being overlooked.



Partner pianomahnn


Mar 25, 2002, 7:01 AM
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One thing to keep in mind, is this isn't going to be an article, really. It's going to be a section of the site, and that liability/warning will be on the main page, normally index.php, and then at the bottom of every page thereafter.

The Basic figure 8 would be referenced in the belaying section probably, and then taught in detail in the knots section.

Ethics is a good topic to add in there. Keeping a butt bag, disposing of waste, not trashing your surroundings, ruining it for other climbers. Access issues and the like. Possibly links to accessfund and other local access organizations as well.



clam


Mar 27, 2002, 7:56 AM
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How about something on common injuries: rotator cuff, tendonitis, fingers? Nothing elaborate, just something for the beginnier to be aware of as an "occupational hazard" for climbers. I wish someone had told me not to crank so hard when I started out. Could have prevented rotator cuff injury (which, by the way, has healed pretty well with exercise and care). Again, nothing elaborate, just a mention could be helpful. I've seen a simple section on this in Long's book on climbing - I think it's called "How to Rock Climb."


rck_climber


Mar 27, 2002, 8:21 AM
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Looks great, Chris! Good job.

I also like the comments of all the climbers before me - I think the "ethics" of climbing are vital to instill at the beginning.

The only thing that I can think of to add would be some sort of general "climbing etiquette" associated to each type of climbing.

I know how much heartache (read outright anger) a newbie can cause us "experienced" climbers when they break one of the unwritten etiquette rules.

Think we can save ourselves alot of trouble if we lay some of the basic etiquette rules down from the beginning (i.e. not walking/bouldering under a climbing on a route w/o permission, or not snagging draws as booty from an outdoor project line, etc.).

That's about all that comes to me off-hand. Good job all, I think this is really going to pay us, the site and the sport dividends for years to come if we can collaborate and put together a solid guide.

Mick
Proud to be a part of it!


atg200


Mar 27, 2002, 8:39 AM
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A few comments off the top of my head:

1. For belay devices, add the munter hitch.
2. Make sure you discuss the carabiner brake rappel.
3. Add a section on ascending, both with jumars and prussiks.
4. Geology section - rock differences, gear and bolt considerations in different rock types
5. Fixed anchors - bolts(good and bad), why you shouldn't TR directly through anchors, fixed pins, why you should never do anything but rappel from descending rings, when to replace crusty webbing, etc.
6. How to make tape gloves for crack climbing
7. Please let people know chalk is not always necessary. Beginners especially overchalk when it isn't needed, and it is an eyesore and polishes holds.


kman


Mar 28, 2002, 3:43 AM
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Fall factor, anchors, ascending. What about ice climbing?


kman


Mar 28, 2002, 3:44 AM
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Oh, ice climbing is already there


howitzer


Mar 28, 2002, 7:32 AM
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It looks great!
I do agree that something about toproping should be in there, for one reason: I have seen way too many people (newbies my guess) setting up topropes with what seems to be no knowledge of what anchors are all about. (i.e. only 1 anchor, not equalized, etc. etc. - very unfortunate). When I learned how to set up ropes 2 years ago, I learned the "SIREN" method which I think would go well in this thing, and I think too many folks setting up ropes these days are setting up for disaster if you know what I mean!
SIREN stands for:
S - Strong/Safe - use anchors you know are good (don't anchor into a loose bush 50 feet away!) If you have bolts, use em!
I - Individual - each anchor is individual of the other. If one fails, the other one will still be alright - i.e. don't put both anchors on the same tree or rock!
R - Reinforcing i.e. have at least 2 anchors, 3 is even better. 2 biners is best too!
E - Equal (or equalized) i.e. All anchors are in line with the direction point of force - if one anchor fails, the others will catch you without much of a fall/swing etc.
N - non-opposing. Dont' put anchors with a high angle between them (i.e 70 degrees apart between 2) The lower angle between anchors the better.

That's how I remember it (I sometimes mess up the N, I forget if that's what it is or not!!!)
Again the reason I say this is too many times I see ropes set up that I look at and say no way would I climb off that! I think folks who are new to setting up are too often eager to do it on their own without someone experienced and without really knowing what goes into it. Usually when I set up a rope I take my time to make sure all this criteria is met, and if not I start over. A lot of times I see people begin and finish while I'm doing mine, and when I look at their set up there are definately issues with it. Safety is key, and beginners are going to set up topropes despite us telling them they should have someone watching them. So for safety, I think that it's important to put it into the guide.
Keep up the good work!
-Abi

[ This Message was edited by: howitzer on 2002-03-28 07:37 ]


clam


Mar 28, 2002, 9:44 PM
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I know it's off the topic a but but SIREN is a new one on me. Perhaps its a variant of what is probably the original - SRENE - Solid, Redundant, Equalized, No Extension (=non shock loading). (See John Long, How to Rock Climb, p. 103).


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