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for all your crimpers... Look at this.

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miagi

Mar 25, 2002, 9:13 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
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Ok, i was just messing around on my wall and i was wondering about my crimp. I watched some movies from ClimbXMedia.com and people's crimp style differs from mine. I made a website showing my crimp style in the first 2 pictures, opposed to others crimp styles in the next two. Please tell me your opinions on strength, safety, and efficienty of the two styles.

http://cocolopez.8m.com/html/crimp.html

[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-03-25 20:03 ]

jackflash

Mar 25, 2002, 9:30 PM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2002
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I usually use the first version.

My cliff doesn't come with those decorative pots and pans like yours does though.

woodse

Mar 25, 2002, 9:34 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2001
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I've heard that the first crimp you displayed is actually the better crimp. It is an open handed crimp and puts less stress on your tendons and will lead to more endurance. The downside is that it takes more strength! This is what the 5.12 master Horst tells me!

woodsE

crackaddict

Mar 25, 2002, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2000
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I use both the open and closed crimp. It all depends on what I am climbing. On easier terrain I use the open crimp. Because it is more efficent. As the holds get smaller I will close it up. I usually put my thumb at the side of my index. If the hold gets real small and steep I put my thumb over my index. And if it turns into dime size edges I use the claw crimp where I put my finger nails against the wall, and tips of the nails pulling down on the hold with the thumb on the side of the index.
Real men climb with the open claw.
Thats all I got to say.

little_tim

Mar 25, 2002, 9:39 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2001
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that top picture is called an open hand grip. it is usefull for long reaches or catching long deadpoints. i will usually catch long moves open handed then bump up to a crimp, the botom pic. i am stronger fully crimped. open handed is not as hard on your tendons as a crimp. try to train open handed, it will lesson the chance of injury.

miagi

Mar 25, 2002, 9:44 PM
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Yup, I like the open crimp better. Like i said, it feels like its hurting my fingers when i do closed grips. I know the trick of stacking your thumb over your index finger but to me, it feels like the weight is going to INVERT your 1st digit. It feels like its going to split it in half. The thought just grosses me out

miagi

Mar 25, 2002, 9:50 PM
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Oh, and jackflash...that wall is my climbing motif lol. It is part of my house that my mom forbids me to climb but i do it anyways in the confines of the night.

http://cocolopez.8m.com/html/climbing.html

sheppe

Mar 25, 2002, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2002
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I use both styles - when I use them depends on the situation.

-Sheppe

jt512

Mar 25, 2002, 10:17 PM
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You should use the open crimp as much as possible because the closed crimp puts a lot of stress on your fingers. Most people are stronger in the closed crimp and have to train their open crimp strength. I save the closed crimp for "emergencies."

-Jay

miagi

Mar 25, 2002, 11:43 PM
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Well, its good im not alone. Im pretty secluded out here in Ohio. Not alot of climbers (that i know of) where im from so i dont get any real beta other than off this and other websites. Ive been watching ClimbXMedia and have seen alot of them using the closed crimp and was thinking that mine wasnt as efficient. O well, its good that its safer.

felixthecat

Mar 26, 2002, 1:13 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
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i use both types of crimps; it just depends on the situation. i find that the closed crimp helps heaps when things are small, like a single crystal or an overhanging climb with smallish crimps. it can be painful as far as the pressure on the index finger feels, however it helps. putting the thumb on top locks off as well.
generally i use this technique more during bouldering than other types of climbing for sure.

gator211

Mar 26, 2002, 1:45 AM
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Registered: Mar 21, 2001
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Lock off with your thumb on the little stuff. Otherwise don't bother.

Gator

lostangel

Mar 26, 2002, 3:20 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Honestly I use both, depending on how much I am using my feet at the time.. or if my hands are tired, I get a little slopy and it ends up lookin like a slopy second

joemor

Mar 26, 2002, 4:19 AM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2001
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there both different crimps good for different things

qacwac

Mar 26, 2002, 4:45 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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I'm pretty sure that in reading about training finger strength, it is best to train the open crimp. Open crimp strength does transfer to closed crimp strength but not vice versa. So this should be your primary training. However it did say that some training could be done for the closed crimp because this is the stronger and directly training it is the best way to increase you maximum holding power.

I think I got that from my Metolius Rock Rings

talons05

Mar 26, 2002, 5:17 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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The pros and cons of both grips have already been discussed, so I will just say this:

I use the open grip on larger crimps, but I have found that the closed grip allows me to cling better to smaller crimps and for a longer period of time.

AW

vaness

Mar 26, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2001
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i do just the opposit
i find that when i put my thumb over my finger on smaller holds my fingers pop off but if i use the open grip they stay...

spodski

Mar 27, 2002, 2:06 AM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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it depends on the situation your in. and whats the grade of that wall in the kitchen lol

dondiego

Mar 27, 2002, 2:25 AM
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I use the first style because in theory, the more muscle groups you use, the faster you will fatigue. To prove this, hang from a bar with your arms straight and only your fingertips going over the bar and then after recovering, do the same with arms bent so that your chin is close to the bar and your fingers are all gripping tight in the pulled up position. Unless you are a freak of nature (just kidding) you lasted longer in the first position where gravity and friction helped out. -Don Diego-

miagi

Mar 27, 2002, 3:17 AM
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My closed crimp is starting to not hurt now. I had to do some time off and stretching, little warm ups, and so forth but now im able to do them pain free. Its helping alot with some holds!

redzit

Mar 28, 2002, 7:53 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
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the first one is an open grip and i generaly not as strong as the second.
the second is one that is very strong, and is used when you need that extra strong hond. the pain of it is the down side adn is why it is not used all the time.

mikedano

Mar 28, 2002, 8:18 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2001
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I sometimes find that I need to use different crimps depending on the hold. If its a tiny sloper, a closed crimp works much better than an open one. But on a good incut hold, an open crimp works fine.

phil_nev

Apr 22, 2002, 1:05 AM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
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i use the open crimp and brace with my thumb, however, i do seem to get more strength from the other one, but just from bad habbit i dont use it very often....

tofattoclimb

Apr 23, 2002, 3:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2001
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I use the second crimp ie thumb on the other fingers mainly as it feels much more soild and the thumb is very strong but if it works for you why change it?????

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