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floof
Mar 28, 2002, 6:39 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2002
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If I use a normal locking carabiner, say a locking BD Enduro, to connect my ATC to my harness, is it much worse than using an HMS biner?
I know a HMS biner is better when using a muooonter hitch, and HMS biners are normally made from a thicker stock so its better for the rope, but is it critical when using an ATC?
Just wondering,
* * * John
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addiroids
Mar 28, 2002, 6:42 AM
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No, it doesn't matter, as long as it's a locker. Just as long as it can fit through both hard points on your harness. It may be a little hard to spin around to have the spine out though.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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miagi
Mar 29, 2002, 1:36 AM
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yeah, it really doesnt matter. Your biner still locks and has enough strength for the job. You might want to have the gate on the outside of your harness because it will rub against your harness alot if you have the gate facing you.
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addiroids
Mar 29, 2002, 3:09 AM
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I just like to have the gate on the inside so that the rope doesn't get hung up on the locking mechanism. It's just nice to have that smooth spine to work with. Also, when you catch (biner upright, gate facing in to body) the majority of the force is directly on the spine. Sure that doesn't matter on a 22kn biner, but for those number crunching morons (read: newbieclimber) out there, it may help.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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pacpres
Mar 29, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Let's make sure you're taking that locking enduro and clipping it ONLY into your belay loop. Some of the above descriptions seem to illustrate an adjoining strap and waist belt clip in. If you indeed plan on clipping in - not through the belay loop - but through the leg loop adjoining strap and the waist belt attachment loop (which is the only way to really have the gate "facing you" or facing away - in the belay loop it faces left and right) USE an HMS biner. Smaller biners clipped in through the adjoining and waist loop will be loaded triaxially (in three directions) weakening the biner!! So - Yes it matters! Belay loop - most lockers will do the trick. Two point clip in (adjoining and waist belt)- the bigger the better to prevent triaxial loading.
David
[ This Message was edited by: pacpres on 2002-03-28 20:27 ]
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crazywacky
Mar 29, 2002, 5:51 AM
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Umm..on my harness, the belay loop runs left to right, so that when the carabiner, HMS style, is clipped into the loop as well as the belt/swami/whatever, the gate faces up or down..not left to right.I think a lot of the harnesses out today run like that...
But whatever.
I think it would probably not be a good idea to try to loop any carabiner through leg loops, as well as belay loop and waist due to the tri-axial load, as well as the sheer un-comfortableness of the situation. that would have to draw the leg loops up quite a bit.
The belay loop itself is plenty strong, and I only use the waist belt portion on the harness I have now because it is a handy way to keep the harness straight while not being worn, and it works out as a good second point to "anchor" with..
Scott
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floof
Mar 29, 2002, 7:15 AM
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thanks for the input: I didn't consider triaxial loading on the smaller lockers.
* * * John
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