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thedesertnomad
Feb 24, 2004, 7:47 PM
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Wondering if anyone would feedback opinion on the following possibility... Feeding the tail of a rope through rap rings (on a bomber anchor) and tying a blocking knot preventing it from slipping through the rings ?!? It would obviously be more of a latteral pull on the rings (not exactly what they were designed for)
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climbersoze
Feb 24, 2004, 8:04 PM
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No way.... Why would you do this and not double the rope and rap that way? If you do what I think you are talking about, you are creating a static anchor and you can't retrieve the rope.... or am I completely missing something?
edit: and if you just want to do a single line rap.... grab a lenght of rope and double it, do a fig 8 on the bite of rope and clip it in to the anchor. I would only do this for sport rappin though... not when coming off a climb...
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mattdog
Feb 24, 2004, 8:21 PM
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In reply to: Wondering if anyone would feedback opinion on the following possibility... Feeding the tail of a rope through rap rings (on a bomber anchor) and tying a blocking knot preventing it from slipping through the rings ?!? It would obviously be more of a latteral pull on the rings (not exactly what they were designed for)
Is this a joke or a troll?
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2004, 8:24 PM
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It reeks of troll stink! Reeks, I tell you!
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climbersoze
Feb 24, 2004, 8:28 PM
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Actually, he is probably asking if it is possible for an EMERGENCY situation where you only had one rope to rap a long distance (or a long overhang)....
For emergency purposes, if you had to use one rope, I would tie a fig 8 in one end, pass the other end through the rap ring, and clip a biner to the fig 8 so the knot would not pass at all. Then you can tie a utility cord to the biner and retrieve the rope after you rap off.
This is IN NO WAY a suggested method of doing a single line rap... this is only meant for an EMERGENCY.
Not a troll... legit question.
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billcoe_
Feb 24, 2004, 8:38 PM
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probably Knot.
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brianinslc
Feb 24, 2004, 9:03 PM
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In reply to: Wondering if anyone would feedback opinion on the following possibility... Feeding the tail of a rope through rap rings (on a bomber anchor) and tying a blocking knot preventing it from slipping through the rings ?!? It would obviously be more of a latteral pull on the rings (not exactly what they were designed for)
See the Petzl website under canyoneering techniques (biner block). Tie a clove hitch on the spine of a carabiner with your rope. Biner jams against the rap rings. Pretty common.
I rap single against a knot a bunch. Especially when feeding a pull cord out of a throw bag on the other side of said knot.
Ala...:
http://mtncommunity.org/...3fa833751f36af30.jpg
In the above, you can see the knot jammed against the pulley. Ropes are tied together via EDK's, a 6mm pull cord in combo with a 9.4mm lead rope. Moores Wall in North Carolina, btw (wild stuff, eh? Never seen that at a climbing wall before, but, talk about an easy rope pull thru that pulley).
So, yeah, I trust it on rappel. Especially on a real long drop where I have one long rope to rap on, and two other ropes tied together. Don't have to pass the knot.
Brian in SLC
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timmah
Feb 24, 2004, 9:18 PM
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What's wrong with a simple bowline? Or if you're worried about equalization, a double-headed monster with each 'head' clipped to a bolt?
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Feb 24, 2004, 9:24 PM
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Check Mark Twight's book Extreme Alpinism. He raps on a single rope and retrieves it with cord. I'm not sure how it's set up at the anchor, but using a biner up there would risk getting the rope stuck if the biner catches on something while you are pulling the rope.
Just cause you never heard of it don't mean it can't be done or is some kind of emergency only procedure, idgits.
Quote: It would obviously be more of a latteral pull on the rings (not exactly what they were designed for)
You must be tripping or gravity is now directed sideways.
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aarong
Feb 24, 2004, 9:25 PM
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Not exactly a low-profile anchor there.
But anyway - I'd like to try it out to see how it works.
To the original question - I would also say tie a knot (fig 8) on the anchor instead of using the stopper action.
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2004, 9:32 PM
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Is that the Sentinel Chimney rappel? That thing's sweet (but a little scary to access).
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brianinslc
Feb 24, 2004, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: Not exactly a low-profile anchor there.
But...it kinda is low profile. Much lower profile than two long rusty chains. Ditto a triangle of brightly colored webbing (or a cord-a-lette on two bolts ending in a rapide or pair of rap rings).
Must be stainless, too. No rust on that thing. Pretty compact. Neat-o.
Not visible from the ground, at all. Nuttin' to flap in the breeze, either.
Only time I've ever seen such a rig. I've seen rap anchors with pulleys, but, not built like that. Gotta be a custom job. Someone cares.
Back to the thread, though. If you had a gri gri, and wanted to rap, rappin' single off a knot against a rap anchor would work perfectly. Could still pull the rope. Gri gri would let you stop enroute, if need be, then restart. Easy money.
Brian in SLC
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brianinslc
Feb 24, 2004, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: Is that the Sentinel Chimney rappel? That thing's sweet (but a little scary to access).
If that's the route to the climber's right of Zoo View, then yeah. Neat thing, though, you can clip the bolt hanger before you downclimb to the ledge (blue webbing is a BW rabbit runner). Is a bit exposed, eh? Clean, one owner.
Brian in SLC
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chosschick
Feb 24, 2004, 10:11 PM
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LMAO!!! by far the funniest post ive seen...
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okinawatricam
Feb 24, 2004, 11:10 PM
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This system would work in an emergency for sure. Adding the back up binner would be nice too.
An Emergengy could include this:
You and your partner climbed ... route at ... crag. The only way off is a four pitch rappel, but while climbig, a rock was dislodge and hit one of you ropes. You are not sure how bad the damamge is.
By using the systen above, you could rappell on the good rope, and use the bad one on the pulling end.
The system is pretty safe
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