Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
little holds
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


tko


Feb 24, 2004, 2:22 PM
Post #1 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 15

little holds
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How or what is a good way to strengthen your fingers for those little tiny holds that seem to be everywere but you just dont have enough strength to hold onto.?


overlord


Feb 24, 2004, 2:26 PM
Post #2 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climb more and youll get stronger.

or maybe use a hangboard.


Partner xcel360


Feb 24, 2004, 2:37 PM
Post #3 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 19, 2002
Posts: 481

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just keep climbing, lots and lots of climbing, and one day you'll reach for one of those tiny holds, grab it and say "Thats not so bad afterall". But don't push yourself past your limits, or you can easily injure yourself and/or pop a tendon. So nope, no real seceret for those tiny holds, just gotta get stronger. To get stronger it's just like we said...climb more. Best of luck to you!

<=glen=>


bouldersdothebodygood


Feb 24, 2004, 6:39 PM
Post #4 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2003
Posts: 133

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hang boards really help and of coarse just climbing. the funny think is i am ok on verry small holds but i have trouble on some slopers i have your problem backwards.


simianboy


Feb 24, 2004, 7:37 PM
Post #5 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 84

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think he hasn't gotten to the point where he likes crimpers and hates slopers yet.

The first holds everybody likes are big jugs but as you get stronger, you start to like crimpers too because they are quite positive (easy to stick to), but as you progress and you can start sticking to pinchers and slopers, you'll notice that crimpers are the ones that hurt your joints the most in the long run (especially the knuckles on your fingers) and then they're your least favorite holds again.

That's what I think anyway. Also, small people with small hands won't like slopers and bigger people with longer fingers will tend to hate crimpers. Using a thumb on the crimpers helps a lot, but you'll get addicted to it and find it harder to adjust to open-hand grips later.

Now I've talked myself in a circle. All types of holds and grips are good, and variety helps you avoid injury. Just climb lots and rest lots, and you will get strong and your technique will get good and you will be able stick to all those holds. Or you can get a hangboard, in which case you will get strong, your technique will suck, and you'll very likely injure yourself sooner or later. (So, don't get a hangboard now).


gregtrammell


Feb 24, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #6 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 190

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

start by practicing those holds on a less than vertical wall.
work your way up to a vertical wall, and then on to overhanging walls.
slowly your grip for those holds will get better.


justsayn2o


Feb 24, 2004, 7:56 PM
Post #7 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 12, 2004
Posts: 11

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

this is a problem im facing currently as well. I descided there must be a way to work out your fingers(tendons) so i got a 2 x 4 and drilled a hole through it and dropped a rope through the hole and put weights on the end of it.i hold it with my thumb and fingers untill it drops,probably helps, or you can get a 2 x 4 that is like 4 inches long and a piece of a 2 x 4 cut to about an inch/half inch and screw it together like this-----> |- then suspend weights from the bottom of the longer 2 x 4 and practice holding on to the small area .


thun


Feb 24, 2004, 8:33 PM
Post #8 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 19, 2003
Posts: 201

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

just keep climbing. :D

and don't forget to push yourself. you may spend 30 mintues flailing around on a route that's above your climbing level, but you'l learn from it and get stronger. eventually, you'll be surprised at what you can hang on to.

also, the ability to use smaller holds rests not just on your finger and hand strength, but your body's ability to position it's own weight to maximize the pull on those smaller holds. if you don't get much slab practice, spend some more time there. the holds are smaller, but the lower slope will allow you to get the feel for the balance and positioning necessary for these types of holds.


dynoguy


Feb 24, 2004, 8:56 PM
Post #9 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hold them tighter


arrowhead


Feb 24, 2004, 9:20 PM
Post #10 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2002
Posts: 232

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The progress should come naturally.

When you're out climbing, go do a variety of routes. Try to work on routes that are one or two letter grades higher, and those that pushes you to the limit, but not impossible to do. You will fall/hangdog a lot, and once in a while, go back to those easy routes which you have previously cleaned, and it will suddenly become so much easier to do.

And without even realizing it, you will eventually be sticking onto holds you never imagined you would be using!

I personally think that _climbing_a_lot_ is the easiest and fastest way to achieve improvements. There are a variety of exercises/training methods like chin-ups and hangboards, but they all require a certain degree of discipline and willpower to stick to, which most of us do not have a lot of!


tko


Mar 1, 2004, 10:07 PM
Post #11 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 15

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

um whats a crimper and a sloper


dangermonkey


Mar 1, 2004, 10:19 PM
Post #12 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 14, 2003
Posts: 164

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

campus board.
Start slow and with out "hitting" rung, on the largest set as well. SLow, controlled moves to the next rung, lock off, omove to the next... or not. I have found that the board has helped me focus my next move, land it, and move with enough balance to progress to the next rung. Start slow because crimping is not a natural form for your fingers to hold weight on. Neither is cranking on it. Finger tendons grow much slower that muscle fiber does, so it is very easy to "feel" stronger. Your hands and arms will be much stronger.


litleclimberchick


Mar 5, 2004, 7:36 PM
Post #13 of 13 (1808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2003
Posts: 1254

Re: little holds [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climb...climb...climb...and climb some more.

oh yeah...those tiny holds are called "crimpers." :wink:


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook