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Is Hueco still "the place"?
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munckee


Mar 1, 2004, 10:30 AM
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Is Hueco still "the place"?  (North_America: United_States: Texas: West_Texas: Hueco_Tanks_State_Historic_Site)
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Is it still tha bomb? I know it used to be one of the best areas out there, but since all the closures, etc, I haven't heard much about it. Is it still worth the trip? How's North Mountain? Decent number of moderate routes?

I don't really want to pay a guide to get into the other areas of the park. Will NM keep us occupied for four days?


fiend


Mar 1, 2004, 10:34 AM
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The rock hasn't changed at all so yeah, it's still 'tha bomb'. The only problem is trying to get into the park during the busy season, although the closures aren't as restritive as they've been hyped up to be.

There should be enough to entertain you on North Mountain for a few weeks.

Edit: the above applies if you meant boulder problems when you wrote routes ;)


roc-dude
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Mar 1, 2004, 11:13 AM
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If your going to do routes on North Mountian you will be the only one doing rope climbing. I go twice a year and I never see anyone doing routes. There are many moderate routes most being trad or mixed trad sport. As you move into the 5.10 you will find more sport routes. If you climb to 5.10 (likely even 5.8) you will have all the routes you want for 4 days. Web search Texas Parks and wildlife and call for reservations. If non are open, get to the gate at the park 1 to 1 1/2 hours before it opens. I think they let 10 wall-ins in a day. If not you will be at the top of the waiting list for people who don't show up. You should be in by 9:30 am and climbing


debsanders


Mar 1, 2004, 2:01 PM
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Re: Is Hueco still "the place"? [In reply to]
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If you can't get a day pass to the North Mountain on Sun & Mon can you get a guide from the Rock Ranch on those days, or is the restricted area closed on those days?

thanks!
Deb


climbsomething


Mar 1, 2004, 2:10 PM
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In reply to:
I don't really want to pay a guide to get into the other areas of the park. Will NM keep us occupied for four days?
As I understand it, if you don't get a private guide, but one of the guides who works for the park itself, the day fee is the same for the rest of the park as it is for North Mountain- $4 day pass. Just call ahead- WAY ahead, as I am finding out :?


debsanders


Mar 1, 2004, 2:16 PM
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The park does tours Wed - Sunday, the fee is the same. I'm wanting to climb on Sun - Tuesday. I have day passes for Tuesday, the other days are sold out. I don't cherish the thought of standing in line for ten slots on Sunday & Monday, so I'm looking to see if I can "for sure" get a guide on Sunday & Monday, not through the park but Rock Ranch, if the park permits outside "certified guides" to operate on those day.

So much to learn . . .

Climbing Mom just trying to her son to Hueco Tanks


munckee


Mar 1, 2004, 2:49 PM
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Re: Is Hueco still "the place"? [In reply to]
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Imagine a place w/ better rock than Hueco, more rock, no closures to speak of, a beautiful setting, spending rest days in a beautiful city (instead of some hole like El Paso), sharing a quaint little house (w/ all the amenities) w/ your crew instead of a stinky tent, & eating great food & drinking fantastic wine every night.

When you're done imagining this, go to Fontainebleau & live it. Font is THE bouldering place - period. Anywhere else is not even close

WTF does that have to do with climbing in texas for four days over spring break? :?


debsanders


Mar 1, 2004, 3:01 PM
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Well France is out of the question . . .

Restrictions are slowly lifting, when crowds arrive and they turn away revenue they begin to think twice about numbers and could increase them in the future.

I vote with my $$ for the park to remain open, heck I may even call up my local rep and let me know as they go into special session, that increasing access will add to the state revs.

Now can anyone answer my question.


roc-dude
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Mar 1, 2004, 3:34 PM
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You can get a guide for all days from the rock ranch.

Now I am going to get flamed for this but, Here it goes. I think Hueco is better off with limited access in regards to the number of people allowed in the park. The Years before they limited access it was a zoo, people everywhere with little regardes to other or this specal place. I hated going because the enviromental problems and there was no peace. People everywhere, boom boxes with the latest euro tech hit at 100db, dogs pop on you rock shoes.. People were loving it to death. Now I can go anytime. I have never had a problem getting in with or without a reservation. It is a nice place to climb where you can finish a climb and sit on top and feel like you are with one with nature. With this being said I feel the whole park should be open to everyone and the number of people could be doubled.

Futher more I feel access should be limited to e-rock. I have been going there for 20 years and the place has changed so much. It is being loved to death. I feel limiting access gets rid of all the Barnies who want make plans, while allowing people who really care for a place the oppertunity to enjoy it.

Ok I am ready for it hit me hard on limited access..

By the way, Hi Debbie it is John..


munckee


Mar 1, 2004, 3:43 PM
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You can get a guide for all days from the rock ranch.

Now I am going to get flamed for this but, Here it goes. I think Hueco is better off with limited access in regards to the number of people allowed in the park. The Years before they limited access it was a zoo, people everywhere with little regardes to other or this specal place. I hated going because the enviromental problems and there was no peace. People everywhere, boom boxes with the latest euro tech hit at 100db, dogs pop on you rock shoes.. People were loving it to death. Now I can go anytime. I have never had a problem getting in with or without a reservation. It is a nice place to climb where you can finish a climb and sit on top and feel like you are with one with nature. With this being said I feel the whole park should be open to everyone and the number of people could be doubled.

Futher more I feel access should be limited to e-rock. I have been going there for 20 years and the place has changed so much. It is being loved to death. I feel limiting access gets rid of all the Barnies who want make plans, while allowing people who really care for a place the oppertunity to enjoy it.

Ok I am ready for it hit me hard on limited access..

By the way, Hi Debbie it is John..

While I haven't been to hueco yet, I can certainly understand where you're coming from. I think the ideas you've laid out are pretty good and would probably be a good compromise. From the sounds of it, it's pretty quiet with the 70 person limit. Not a bad thing, but it could still be quite comfortable with more...?

As for e-rock, I agree to an extent there as well. I've been going for about 12 years and it has changed dramatically. We used to go at least once a month during high school and never had a problem getting onto climbs we wanted.

Fast forward to now, six years later, and the park is an utter zoo. Part of the problem I have with it is the massive groups of scouts/youth groups that they let climb. Two weeks ago we headed toward motoboat rock; we came into the lunch rocks area and it literally looked like a party was happening. We had to WAIT IN LINE to get to the base of practice slab. Most of the crowds were groups of 20+ scouts and similar that were climbing and rappelling. Add to that the damn guides that clog up four or five routes at a time and the place gets busy! Maybe limited access OR limited group sizes would help matters...

Anyway, rant over.


fiend


Mar 1, 2004, 3:46 PM
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In reply to:
Now I am going to get flamed for this but, Here it goes. I think Hueco is better off with limited access in regards to the number of people allowed in the park.

Word. I thought the same thing when I was there last spring.


debsanders


Mar 1, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Yo John, thanks for the bete.

Hope to see you tomorrow night and you can tell me all I need to know.

It's almost like planning a trip to another country . . .

:?


ebelay


Mar 1, 2004, 4:05 PM
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I recently returned from 5 days in Hueco. It was my first trip there and, as expected, it lives up to it's reputation of being a stellar climbing area. There's plenty to keep you busy on N. Mtn. for a month. Four days will only give you a taste and you'll leave wishing you had more time.

With respect to reservations and tours, we made our reservations a few days prior to our arrival and managed to get reserved for 4 of the 5 days we asked for. The day we couldn't get in was a Saturday but I'd imagine if you planned in advance, that wouldn't be a problem. We also had no problem getting on a park tour to the East Spur by signing up a day ahead of time. During the week things were pretty mellow but more people started arriving on Thursday and Friday. With spring breaks coming up, I imagine it will become more and more difficult to get reservations and tours. I'm sure somebody who's more familiar with the park and climbing seasons could answer this better than I.

I have to say, from my limited experience at the park, I agree with roc-dude's position. Even with the restrictions, the place shows signs of overuse and abuse. This is not to mention scraps of tape and cigarette butts left (yeah, those hand-rolled cigs that some climbers are fond of - we saw climbers rolling and smoking them then we found the butts on the ground after they left) at the base of problems and excessive tick-marking. It's sad, really un-f-ing-believeable, that with the current access issues that climbers wouldn't be more sensitive to the situation and do their part to limit impact. Access is a priviledge, not a right.

ER


munckee


Mar 1, 2004, 4:07 PM
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I just called for reservations for the 18th-21st (with low hopes considering its spring break). They only had 3 slots left on sunday and the rest were full.


debsanders


Mar 1, 2004, 4:52 PM
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Now I'm crazy, I called this morning and Sunday was booked. I guess people must have cancelled their reservations, hmmmm.


ldsclimber


Mar 1, 2004, 5:24 PM
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I just got back from there last night. It was all that I heard it would be and more. There are 100s of V0-V4 that are thee stars easy, even if the guide dosn't rait them that way. T-Bone shuffle was an awesome V4 I think it's a one star so... just have fun and climb what looks cool and chances are it will be. We never left north mountian either.


rngrchad


Mar 1, 2004, 5:42 PM
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I was wondering about Hueco myself. Every single time the Park comes up in the media it seems to be about some problematic access issues. I'm not sure if it is just coincidence (spelling?) or that things really are looking bleak for future generations of climbers. I personally will probably never make it there myself, but boy oh boy, does the media make Hueco sound like it is headed to inevitable doom.
This is just from what I read anyhow. :?


madmax


Mar 2, 2004, 1:44 PM
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Without a doubt, the restrictions at Hueco were needed. The place is fragile and it was getting trashed. If you haven't been to Hueco, you'll have plenty to do on North Mountain, whether you climb V0 or V10.

As far as Hueco being "the place..." well, it sure ain't the mega-scene it was ten years ago, but that doesn't mean it ain't "the place" for some of the best bouldering in the world. If it weren't so good, people wouldn't still be coming there from all over the world.

Oh, yeah, and the roped climbing in Hueco is stellar!


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