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Partner iclimbtoo


Mar 31, 2002, 7:52 PM
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Okay, I'm a climber. I've been climbing for a long time. I know and understand bouldering and climbing ratings (you know, the typical stuff...V7 or 5.12d). However, I have never been ice climbing and some of my friends wanted to take me. I said no because I knew nothing about it...I know, dumb. I'm kicking myself for it right now. however, I am curious as to what various ratings mean. What does M V8+ mean or WI5+? Can someone help explain these terms to me so I would have a better understanding of these grades? That would be awesome! Thanks!



[ This Message was edited by: jmlangford on 2002-04-01 13:28 ]


andy_lemon


Apr 5, 2002, 4:25 PM
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WI = water ice
M = mixed

Water ice climbing is just like it says...

Mixed climbing includes rock, which in turn includes dry tooling. Dry tooling is tough, can you imagine climbing a 5.10 with ice tools and crampons? oooh!

The higher the number the harder the climb, obviously. A M8 would be like climbing a 5.12 with ice tools and crampons, and it would have a slither of ice here and there. A WI 8 would be a ugly looking waterfall, most likely with several overhangs.

There is also another rating for ice climbing that rates climbs on how far they are away from civilization... but I've forgoten this term. You can obtain more info on ice climbing from The Mountaineers "Freedom of the Hills". It is an excellent book.


Andy


beyond_gravity


Apr 6, 2002, 7:58 AM
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I, and most people can climb WI3+ with one tool. I can climb WI 1 with no crampons and 1 ice tool. any fool can climb WI 1. I'd recomend starting on TR on less steep WI3. I didnt start mixed climbing untill I was leading WI4 because I didnt have enoghf tool control.

I am Dr. Jumar
Remember, sometimes Ice climbing IS as dangerous as it looks

"Jug with Jumars" Jeremy


Partner iclimbtoo


Apr 6, 2002, 12:51 PM
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Thanks Andy, that's what I was looking for!


andy_lemon


Apr 8, 2002, 8:17 AM
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Glad I could help!


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice

 


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