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inflight
Apr 3, 2002, 2:23 AM
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In preparation for climbing Indian Creek and routes that require considerable lat strength and endurance, I did pullups.
I did them on a pullup bar, crimper board and a hand crack contraption I build. More on that on another time.
The rule of thumb I have learned is don't do too much too soon or you can strain a tendon.
My buddy and I did 300 in one session and got tendonitis.
Here's the work out methods I used:
Method 1.
Do 1-5 pullups at the start of every minute for 15-60 minutes depending on your strength and muscle development. If you are a beginner, set you sights on 15-25 total 2-3 times per week. If you are an intermmediate climber shot for 50-75 two times a week. I got to a point of doing 100 per session.
Method 2
Do an increasing number of pullups at the start of every minute. Start with 1 then 2 then 3. Shoot for 5-15 then back down the same way you counted up. It looks like this: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,6,5, 4, 3, 2, 1 The total number here is 36. This method s more for anerobic strength.
If you get really strong, add weight and do the work out. Currently, I do 50-100 a week as part of my routine workout and increase it if I have a long hard route comming up.
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lostangel
Apr 3, 2002, 2:47 AM
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I do pull ups! I just had to add not to do them on your door frams in your house, cause I broke mine doing this, Man was my mom ticked! LOL
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crackaddict
Apr 3, 2002, 2:50 AM
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Thanks inflight I am going to try these.
Is the crack contraption you built like a hang board?
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miagi
Apr 3, 2002, 4:27 AM
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Do the Frenchies!!!!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=7207&forum=36&23
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joemor
Apr 3, 2002, 9:14 AM
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i did a pull up once
ill have to give your routine a go!!!!! damn weak arms
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apollodorus
Apr 3, 2002, 11:18 AM
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The only time I do pull-ups is on the door jambs of my house. 1/2" edges are about the largest you should use. I mean, how many pull-up bars are you going to find in the Wild?
Finger strenth is better than brute strength.
And even better is keeping your feet in shape. Not physically, mentally. Use them to take the weight off. You'd be surprised how much good footwork can lower the rating.
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toprope_media
Apr 3, 2002, 12:12 PM
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Thanks much.
I am going to try your aneroboc suggestion. I have been racing bikes for many years. That configuration is called a pyramid. They work for cycling...should do the same for climbing.
I do pull ups all the time. over the course of the day, I probably complete 6-8 sessions. I do mine on a mini climbing wall/hangboard.
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gekolimit
Apr 3, 2002, 12:30 PM
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Just like to say i completely agree with apollodorus.
Bring on the FEET.
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metoliusmunchkin
Apr 3, 2002, 9:03 PM
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Another pull-ups topic
Let me begin by quoting (though indirectly I might add) another user of this site, before beginning my comments.
I believe it was Mark (fiend) who had earlier said that at the time that he was able to climb at the grade of 5.11, he was only able to do 4 or 5 pull-ups. He stated that doing pull-ups proves only that you can do a certain number of pull-ups, and that this helped in only a small way while climbing.
I feel that I must agree with Mark. I have found through personal training concepts, that pull-ups help only when making strength related dynamic movements, rather than overall climbing ability.
This is, I might add, quite an effective way to train for ecumenical strength, that can be used for other effective climbing movements.
I have absolutely nothing against pull-ups, and use them in all of my climbing training techniques.
[ This Message was edited by: metoliusmunchkin on 2002-04-03 13:06 ]
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radistrad
Apr 3, 2002, 9:21 PM
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I can do about 6 pullups in a row. My hardest climb this year was Short Circuit, a 5.11d top rope problem maybe 30' tall, its a classic Yosemite crack climb. I had an on sight ascent. I did it two more times to prove to my self that it was not a fluke. The second time I fell, the third I did it in style again.
I place all of the credit to my foot work.
I do notice that if I am doing my pullups that I feel stronger on the rock.
I was trying to do pullups from my crack machine, but it was really awkward. I think I am going to build "radistrad's hand jam pull up macine". I think it will be a mini crack machine that I hang horozontially from the side of my wall. If I ever do it I'll post about it.
More spray...
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-04-03 13:23 ]
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-04-03 15:32 ]
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wigglestick
Apr 3, 2002, 10:12 PM
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I've said it before and I will say it again:
The best climbers are good at avoiding pull-ups. Work on technique and the rest will come naturally.
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pattray
Apr 3, 2002, 10:27 PM
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I'm with wiggle, I can only do 6 maybe 7 pullups and i top rope 5.12. stick to working on your foot work as it really makes those pull up moments on the rock look like childs play
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dustinap
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Apr 3, 2002, 11:27 PM
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I can do about 5-7 pullups and have lead stuff hard enough. I find technique is what really helps. I've never climbed at Indian Creek like you said you have, but climbing outside I find typically doesn't require the arm strength inside does.
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-04-03 15:28 ]
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bodyresults
Apr 4, 2002, 1:58 AM
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I have to agree that to improve climbing, technique is by far more important than pullup strength. Finger strength also should rank higher in your training than pullups. I can do 30 pullups and 1 pullup with 160lbs of weight added. While this helps a little it can definitely encourage poor technique.
What about climbing with added weight. Wouldn't this encourage better technique since you are relatively weaker with the added weight? Do many of you have experience climbing with added weight?
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hyhuu
Apr 4, 2002, 5:46 PM
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Yeah, it's call trad climbing. Sometimes I wonder how I even get off the ground with all of those gears on.
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pattray
Apr 4, 2002, 6:28 PM
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A pull up with 160LB weight, dude you can come along and climb with me any day, no more hauling that dam pig up the wall when I've got you with that thing strapped to your back.
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compassdg
Apr 16, 2002, 8:34 PM
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I have to agree with the others. I can do 12 pull-ups and it's come in handy on one climb. I'm just getting back into climbing after tearing an elbow tendon lifting so technique is key for me.
I do believe that the stronger you are the better your endurance will be though. Also a key is of course to not waste energy while climbing. I've learned the the hard way!
Now if you want to be able to do more pull-ups I'd recommend the ladder technique.
http://www.cbass.com/Pavel'sLadders.htm
Do 1, wait as long as it would take another person to do 1. Do 2 wait as long as it would take another person to do 2, etc...
Don't go to failure though, stop within a 1-2 reps of failure when doing these. You'll find as I have that you'll gain strength faster that way.
Enjoy!
Dave
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treyr
Apr 16, 2002, 10:05 PM
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Thanks for the advice!
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