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bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 10:58 PM
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I'm up for Clear Creek on Sunday - haven't been there yet and I like the sound of the easier routes - heck, I might even lead one!

Let's see whaddup in the next couple of days. Dumped snow up here last night, so hopefully that's not a harbinger of things to come.

Hey, shorty, are you still racing or can you join us at Gumbie Wall, oh Fearless Leader?

SKibs

If we climb in Eldo I'll show you a couple of nice, fun and juggy climbs on the west side of the whale's tail. You'll like them. Super easy to protect and yet fun! :) Two of them are Kor routes too! :) I saw a guy placing an anchor on the first pitch of either "the bomb" or "Breezy" on Sunday - it looked like a very easy place to anchor in and therefore I feel comfortable doing my first lead multi-pitch anchors on the wind tower. It seems like those are some nice belay stances on the ledge. I have no problems placing the gear and these anchor stations sure looked to be pretty easy overall.

I'm looking for a "second" this weekend - with that knowledge - anyone game for multi-pitch? If not, then I'll just play on the west crack of the whale's tail and also do the west dihedral with all cowbells!


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 11:43 PM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Tracy, would you want to join us in Eldo on Sunday? I'm looking for a partner that wouldn't mind swapping leads on something simple such as a 4 - Breezy or Bomb?


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 12:43 AM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Tracy, would you want to join us in Eldo on Sunday? I'm looking for a partner that wouldn't mind swapping leads on something simple such as a 4 - Breezy or Bomb?

Sorry Busti, I'll be in Red Rocks. Thanks for the invite. Those 2 routes are both fun. Get there early.


crazyfingers


Mar 16, 2004, 1:37 AM
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Hey Everybody,

I've been chating with some folks via PMs and maybe a group thing of CCC on Saturday and Eldo on Sunday will work? I am up for either and/or both.

As a side note, a couple of folks may have remember that I had to take off about 2 pm last week to help my wife clean our place for a group of relatives coming into town the following weekend... Well... the group consists of my mother in law, her sister, my sister in law, and two of my wife's cousins, both female. They start showing up Thursday morning :wink: ... I love them all but have a feeling I'll be a bit out numbered and ready for a break in the action come early Saturday AM. Already got the green light to 4 pm on Saturday and all day Sunday.

If anybodies game for getting out to CCC early (7 - 8 am) Saturday and staking out some RC.com turff let me know. I've never climbed in CCC so finding the routes may take some effort, I PLAN TO PICK UP A CCC GUIDE BOOK THIS WEEK, BUT AS ALWAYS ALL BETA WELCOME! I have to get back into Denver by 4:30 pm Saturday to get ready for dinner out with the ladies... As a side note, anybody adverse to me bringing my well behaved huskies to CCC if we sport climb? Both have been cragging/bouldering a bunch in the past and do pretty well off leash, even better after getting tired. Wouldn't consider bringing them for any multi-pitch/trad stuff i.e. eldo on Sunday or if plans change for Saturday.

In short let me know what you think of the following:

- SATURDAY: CCC (Clear Creek Canyon), my plan is for an early start, let me know on dogs no/no dogs, probably going to bring a newbie buddy if he doesn't flake on me

- SUNDAY: Eldo for a Trad-a-thon with me as a belay slave/eager follower-student, NO Dogs, again willing to get there early

Open to any suggestions/change in plans, easily said, I got a hall pass for the weekend, and I hope to climb a bunch.

Is it Friday yet?

Kyle


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 2:11 AM
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Eldo on sunday sounds good.

Kyle-

Get yourself a nut tool at the very least so you can clean gear on second. ...

Even better would be to get TWO nut tools so you can clean stuck, abandoned gear to build your trad rack. You use the tools to manipulate the triggers back and forth to work the cams out. I was not successful in cleaning that overcammed Trango last weekend, but it was only out of courtesy that I stopped. These things can take time. Heh.


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 2:28 AM
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Holy Smokes, this thread has taken off. Im going to totally stay out of the desicion as to where we climb because any place is fine with me. I might have a hard time getting to eldo early enough for everyone elses tastes (1 1/2 hour drive up) but it sounds like a couple of other places are being kicked around. I would love to climb both sat and sun but my checkbook is looking kinda thin and M_Sheep twisted my arm soooo hard to climb on wed that two trips up on the weekend taint gonna happen. Blame it on her! 8)


nthusiastj


Mar 16, 2004, 2:32 AM
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Kyle and all,
I am up for CCC and Eldo. I am a bit of a psycho and will climb almost anytime. Even if my body says no.
BTW, I have a full rack and will lead 5.8 in eldo. I don't mind leading either. Kyle, it might be good for us to team up and climb sunday. We seem to be at about the same grade. The only gear that you need to climb with me is a nut tool and a couple of locking biners. I never use a daisy chain.


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 2:43 AM
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Kyle and all,
I am up for CCC and Eldo. I am a bit of a psycho and will climb almost anytime. Even if my body says no.
BTW, I have a full rack and will lead 5.8 in eldo. I don't mind leading either. Kyle, it might be good for us to team up and climb sunday. We seem to be at about the same grade. The only gear that you need to climb with me is a nut tool and a couple of locking biners. I never use a daisy chain.

Hey Jeremy,

I'm going to be calling you up when it's too cold, windy, and wet outside for everyone else. And of course you don't mind leading. In fact, is it not a drag to follow every pitch? Robbed!


breaksnclimbs


Mar 16, 2004, 2:44 AM
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See what you started ajoys!!
Now everyone in Colorado wants to climb with each
other. :D Gueass it took an out of towner to connect
the dots :!: :!:
Serioulsy, I'm in Eldo EVERY weekend if any one needs a partner
I usually have one but three's company and then if one bails, still
got a pair!! The going trend for me is to show up around 9am
and climb 'till dark. I lead most 9s with ease these days though
there are some "Eldo 9s" that still freak me out (haven't led the
first pitch of tagger yet). But I onsighted a couple of 10s this
weekend Break on Through and Darkness 'till Dawn and still didn't pull
off a clean lead of Grandmothers Challenge!! Next time Gadget -
Next time!!
So let me know if you want to meet up in the lot I can show you around.
I've climbed a bunch of the "classic" moderates , and know the area VERY
well.
cool
peace
rs


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 3:05 AM
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See what you started ajoys!!
Now everyone in Colorado wants to climb with each
other. :D Gueass it took an out of towner to connect
the dots :!: :!:

Yep. The locals have been here long enough to have their own partner stash, the greedy bastards.

In reply to:

Serioulsy, I'm in Eldo EVERY weekend if any one needs a partner
I usually have one but three's company and then if one bails, still
got a pair!! The going trend for me is to show up around 9am
and climb 'till dark. I lead most 9s with ease these days though
there are some "Eldo 9s" that still freak me out (haven't led the
first pitch of tagger yet).

My friend Alex led that one a while back with me belaying. Quite a tricky little thin line at the start that spit out a nut. You are wise to respect that one.


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 3:08 AM
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Holy Smokes, this thread has taken off. Im going to totally stay out of the desicion as to where we climb because any place is fine with me. I might have a hard time getting to eldo early enough for everyone elses tastes (1 1/2 hour drive up) but it sounds like a couple of other places are being kicked around. I would love to climb both sat and sun but my checkbook is looking kinda thin and M_Sheep twisted my arm soooo hard to climb on wed that two trips up on the weekend taint gonna happen. Blame it on her! 8)

Thank you ZOZO! I owe you a brew! We'll go to Falling Rock Tavern on Wed night after the gym.


hstewart


Mar 16, 2004, 3:59 AM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Oooooh Tracey...wish i could get away in the middle of the day to climb!Unfortunetly I'm a slave to the corporate world. Do you ever get over to BRC in the evenings?

Anyone need a second for some multi-pitch action at Eldo on Sunday?


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 4:04 AM
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In reply to:
I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Oooooh Tracey...wish i could get away in the middle of the day to climb!Unfortunetly I'm a slave to the corporate world. Do you ever get over to BRC in the evenings?

Anyone need a second for some multi-pitch action at Eldo on Sunday?

Sure thing Holly. After the first of April I'll hit BRC with you or maybe we can hit the canyon after work.


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 4:21 AM
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Anyone need a second for some multi-pitch action at Eldo on Sunday?

I counted at least three other people who were into doing some multies. You should be able to take your pick.

And the after climbing eating/drinking place shall be...

The Dark Horse, 2922 Baseline Rd, Boulder, 442-8162

All in favor say AYE! All opposed...

shall die in searing pain. :twisted:


hstewart


Mar 16, 2004, 4:27 AM
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AYE!


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 4:39 AM
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AYE!

Amen.


crazyfingers


Mar 16, 2004, 5:11 AM
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Aye, if your willing to take a newbie :shock: . Jeremy, sounds like a plan for Eldo. Anybody in for CCC on saturday?

KT


ebelay


Mar 16, 2004, 7:49 AM
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AYE!

Just moved to town on Friday. I'm staying with some friends in Denver while searching for a pad in Boulder. Between the work of house-hunting, I've managed to squeeze in a bit of bouldering on Flagstaff. Tip-shredding goodness!

I can climb one full day this weekend and maybe a half day of bouldering the other. Wouldn't mind dusting off the rack for some easy trad at Eldo if that's what's happening on Saturday. Are there any boulderers in this group who would be interested in heading out to some of the local areas?

PM me about trad, sport or playing on the small stones.

Eric


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 12:48 PM
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First of all it has come to my attention that the caption on the photo of me on sunday is causing some confusion. I in fact did not climb a .12b, it was more like an .8. It was an honest accounting error....

Read my lips! No new taxes!
I did Not have sexual relations with that woman, Ms. Lewinsky.
If Saddam Hussein doesnt disarm, we will disarm him!

If I can get my friends to watch my dog I might be up for some dinner after but that might be sketchy - but since dying a death of searing pain sounds kinda sucky, count me in for half an AYE!

Hey Ebelay - I need to be moving into Boulder / Arvada / Longmont area in the next 4 to 6 weeks. Are you looking for a roommate by any chance? I want to get a house with a yard cause I have a dog.


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 1:06 PM
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Hey Everybody,
Well... the group consists of my mother in law, her sister, my sister in law, and two of my wife's cousins, both female. They start showing up Thursday morning :wink: ... I love them all but have a feeling I'll be a bit out numbered and ready for a break in the action come early Saturday AM.

I have to get back into Denver by 4:30 pm Saturday to get ready for dinner out with the ladies...

Allright Kyle... I will take some of them off your hands... but you owe me one!!

PS. Not the mother in law :D


skycat


Mar 16, 2004, 4:48 PM
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Aye, if your willing to take a newbie :shock: . Jeremy, sounds like a plan for Eldo. Anybody in for CCC on saturday?

KT

Me me me.....I'm up for CCC, I can be there around 9am.

Oh and I saw someone wanted to bring thier dogs......I love dogs, mine will be staying home though since she trys to climb the route behind me. :roll:


crazyfingers


Mar 16, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Cool skycat, I'll meet you there. Any ideas on where to park?

Kyle


skycat


Mar 16, 2004, 6:00 PM
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Cool skycat, I'll meet you there. Any ideas on where to park?

Kyle

There is plenty of parking along Hwy 6 and I have the guide book for the area at home. I've only been to Cat Slab and High Wire Crag, and both are fun, Cat slab will be warmer than HWC though. Still either of those are fine will me or one of the other ones, I'm just not familiar with them.

Kelli


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 6:25 PM
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Cool skycat, I'll meet you there. Any ideas on where to park?

Kyle

There is plenty of parking along Hwy 6 and I have the guide book for the area at home. I've only been to Cat Slab and High Wire Crag, and both are fun, Cat slab will be warmer than HWC though. Still either of those are fine will me or one of the other ones, I'm just not familiar with them.

Kelli

If you are climbing at Cat Slab, I recommend that being your first stop for the day. It gets lots of morning sun. Drive through tunnel # 5 and park on either side of the road. High Wire Crag gets sun later in the day. Park before you get to tunnel # 2 on either side of the road to get there. Highwire can get really crowded on the weekends. It's loaded w/moderates. I'm not sure if the anchors have been replaced on the 5.8 and 5.9 all the way at the end of the crag. Please be vigilant to not TR directly off of these anchors. They were terribly worn last time I was there. Use draws instead. If you decide not to climb at Highwire, across the street is Highlander Crag. This area tends to be less crowded, is in the sun but has harder lines. Have fun! Maybe I can join you guys next time.

Oh and 1 more word of advice. Sorry, I'm a Mom. If you do the 5.8 on Cat Slab (there's only 1), be careful when you lower or rap. The route falls just a little short of a 60m rope length. You can still make it down safe w/a 60m rope, just make sure you rap or lower as far left as possible to the top of the little alcove. I witnessed an accident here and it wasn't pretty. A female climber also died here a while back. Some of the routes are really close to a full rope length so be careful. Okay, I'm done. Sorry.


ajoys


Mar 16, 2004, 9:03 PM
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Isn't this great!!!

Climbed at Eldo Sunday for the first time and the way climbs are rated is a little different then I am used to. I am used to the ratings signifying the hardest moves/crux section and it seems to me in Eldo the ratings are geared towards the majority of the climb even if the crux is harder etc.. I don't know, just my opinion based on one day of climbing so what do I know. :)

I am definitely going to have to start at the bottom and work my way up.

If any one wants to lead up some single pitches of 7's,8's and maybe an easier 9 so I could follow up let me know. I want to get some mileage under my belt before I venture out on the sharp end of the rope there. Either way, I will be there Sunday. Just being there is good for the soul.

I have climbed at cats slab in CCC and it is a great place to go for a goup. All the climbs are right there in one spot and it is close to the road. There is one 5.4, a 5.7 and a 5.8 that are great for new leaders. I lead the 5.8 on the far left as my first climb in colorado. There is also one 5.9 (with a great crux section) and many 10's. The climbing is some what steep slab climbing, all bolt protected and most routes are 100-120' long, so some routes require two ropes to rap down unless you have a really long rope. Lots of fun. If you go to climbingboulder.com they have all the beta you need on the area.


From what I have read on the internet and heard from other climbers there at cat's slab, most say the climbs are easier then rated but I just think slab climbing is easier for most people then going up a steep crack. I know I climb better on slabs and faces etc...


In reply to:
See what you started ajoys!!
Now everyone in Colorado wants to climb with each
other. :D Gueass it took an out of towner to connect
the dots :!: :!:
Serioulsy, I'm in Eldo EVERY weekend if any one needs a partner
I usually have one but three's company and then if one bails, still
got a pair!! The going trend for me is to show up around 9am
and climb 'till dark. I lead most 9s with ease these days though
there are some "Eldo 9s" that still freak me out (haven't led the
first pitch of tagger yet). But I onsighted a couple of 10s this
weekend Break on Through and Darkness 'till Dawn and still didn't pull
off a clean lead of Grandmothers Challenge!! Next time Gadget -
Next time!!
So let me know if you want to meet up in the lot I can show you around.
I've climbed a bunch of the "classic" moderates , and know the area VERY
well.
cool
peace
rs

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