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psirro


Apr 4, 2002, 10:37 AM
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To train fingers..
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=3863 how about looking this foto
i think its very good for warm up if you are going to make dificult routes and also its very useful for keeping your finger muscels in good condition...what is your opinion?


[Edited subject. -sauron]

[ This Message was edited by: sauron on 2002-04-04 10:45 ]


miagi


Apr 4, 2002, 12:06 PM
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I have one. It really dosent train the fingers as much as your forearms. If you hold it in the center of your hand, it will give your upper and lower forearms a really good workout. For your fingers its a little bit harder. You need to hold one end with your palm and the other with only the first digit of each finger.


crackaddict


Apr 4, 2002, 1:06 PM
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Miagi is right.

If you don't already know. Be careful with these devices that spring back. When you use them and you are releaseing the tension. Don't let them spring back. Release them slowly and in control. By letting them spring back you can do a lot of damage to the tendons in your fingers. Black Diamond makes a donut device that works the same way. I had once and have used the spring loaded ones to. They will pump the forearms but don't do much for the fingers.

Rock It Up!


bodyresults


Apr 4, 2002, 1:08 PM
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A good way to warm up fingers and general climbing muscles is to go over to the wall and traverse with you hands while keeping you feet on the ground. This allows you to gradually put weight on you fingers and arms. You should move your feet like you were on the wall so you don't develop sloppy habits. After several minutes of this you might start place your feet on holds. Be sure to go gradually.

Now you should be ready to start some warmup routes.

As far as training the fingers, the "crushers" don't have much carry over to climbing. Being able to support weight with your finger tips is very important along with being able to support weight on a slopeing hold. Pinch grip strength can help too.


miagi


Apr 4, 2002, 5:29 PM
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A device you might want to check into is the grip master. Guitarist's use these to strengthen their fingers. It wont necessarily get your fingers strong, but it will warm them up.
http://www.encoremusic.com/drum/2630053.htm


roclymber


Apr 5, 2002, 11:41 AM
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miagi, actually, Ive seen a few rockclimbing store sites sell those. Ive heard nothing but good things about them too! i dont have one, though I do have one of the finger spring thingies. anyways, remember too that in rock climbing you do need forearm strength! so anything and everything to help improve forearm/finger strength is good in my book.


findaway


Apr 10, 2002, 7:45 AM
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Check out climbxmedia.com and watch protip 1 with Jared Roth, dude has some exercises for getting crazy stong fingers. Great video too


fishbait


Apr 10, 2002, 8:16 AM
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I'm confused . When you say it doesn't do anything for your fingers, what exactly are you referring to? There aren't any muscles in your fingers. The muscles you're warming up are your forearms. These things are not very good for training purposes but do provide a good way to warm up your forearms, if used properly.


janjaf


Apr 11, 2002, 2:57 AM
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I both climb and play guitar.- The gripmaster (and devices like it) _may_ be useful as warm-up tools, but have been associated with RSI (Repeat Strain Injuries). Be careful, don't overdo it. Climbing with your feet on the floor, and slowly adding weight on your hands is probably safer.


treyr


Apr 11, 2002, 7:15 AM
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I like the new thing from metolius it is awesome!!!!


Trob


bodyresults


Apr 14, 2002, 4:37 PM
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I have made a device to train fingers. It simulates a small ledge. You can hook different weight sources to it. I have more information and pictures at http://www.bodyresults.com/p1crimp.asp Let me know what you think.

[ This Message was edited by: bodyresults on 2002-04-14 16:38 ]


lostangel


Apr 14, 2002, 4:46 PM
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bodyresult,
I think that is really cool I wanna make one!


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