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hstewart


Mar 16, 2004, 1:50 PM
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Sure thing Holly. After the first of April I'll hit BRC with you or maybe we can hit the canyon after work.

sweet! we'll have to drag zozo along and regale in tales of our maine adventures. did you climb at acadia much??


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 1:54 PM
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Sure thing Holly. After the first of April I'll hit BRC with you or maybe we can hit the canyon after work.

sweet! we'll have to drag zozo along and regale in tales of our maine adventures. did you climb at acadia much??

Sounds good to me. No, I never climbed in Acadia. I started climbing 2 years ago after living out here for 1 year. I was a total city girl when I lived in Maine. I was always trying to hang on to my New York roots. Then I grew up. Thank God!


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 2:28 PM
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Since so many of you are heading to Cat Slab Saturday morning, I'm going to have to join you. I must work squash into the day, but that can easily be done.


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 2:34 PM
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Man, I gots to get out the Springs. Im in for eldo on sunday but Im not sure I cant make saturday's outing. Im weak, and guilt trips and arm twisting have been known to work in the past however. At some point of course you all realize you need to come down here fora day of Garden sandstone or then Shelf road the week after that!


crazyfingers


Mar 16, 2004, 3:45 PM
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Catslab at 9 am sounds good. Don't think I am going to bring the dogs, new potentially crowded crag probably wouldn't mix with my mischevious mutts. They've never peed on anybody's stuff, but packs full of melted energy bars beware...

Thanks to mother_sheep for the parking beta, to bad you can't make it, look forward to meeting you. To those that can (looks like Kelli and Tim for sure, Zoso consider your arm twisted :), Jeremy/James/Martha you guys coming?) . I plan to be parked on the side of the road after tunnel 5 a little before nine. Keep an eye out for the trusty black ford ranger 4X4.

Plan to bring all the climbing gear I've got (which isn't much... but I am working on it :oops: ) 60M rope, bunch of biners (locking and bent), 12 draws, and a bunch of webbing (tied mostly into 24" and 48" slings). May have to beg, borrow and ... well borrow some additional gear... sounds like CCC has a bunch of long routes.

Damn its only Tuesday...

KT


nthusiastj


Mar 16, 2004, 4:05 PM
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score one Jeremy for the Catslab Sat at 9!


shorty


Mar 16, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Cat slab will be warmer than HWC though.
If you are climbing at Cat Slab, I recommend that being your first stop for the day. It gets lots of morning sun.... High Wire Crag gets sun later in the day.... Highwire can get really crowded on the weekends. It's loaded w/moderates. I'm not sure if the anchors have been replaced on the 5.8 and 5.9 all the way at the end of the crag.
OK, my turn for $.01 input. Memory tells me High Wire faces somewhat southeast and Catslab is more southwest. Last September, mtngeo and I were bathed in sun on High Wire by 7am. Note that upper River Wall probably blocks early sun this time of year, although I suspect High Wire will be fully lit shortly after 8am.

In July I've climbed at Catslab early in the day to avoid the heat. We were able to stay cool until 10am or so when the sun swung around and the Gus arete no longer shaded the main slab. Catslab bakes in the afternoon until the sun drops below the ridge on the opposite side of Clear Creek. I am uncertain what time this occurs now, but I'll guess a little before 5pm.

Last Sunday, the left side of High Wire (Ace in the Hole through Pony Up, plus Via Comatose Amigo) were fully in the shade by 2pm. Cracker Jack went shady by 3pm, but the 1st & 2nd pitches of People's Choice were still sunny at 4:30pm (the 3rd pitch dihedral was shady by 2pm).

Now for $.02. The worn cold shut anchors on High Wire's Poker Face and Pony Up (the 5.9 and 5.8 Tracy discusses above) were replaced last yearl with modern steel. But as Tracy says, use your draws to TR any route in this popular canyon.

Expect crowds at both High Wire and Catslab -- they're the easiest crags in the canyon. And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.


shorty


Mar 16, 2004, 5:51 PM
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And zozo, a weekend at Shelf SOON is a must-do! It has to be warming up there nicely.
Shelf's Cactus Cliff is getting quite warm on sunny days. Two weeks ago it was warm enough by 11am for shorts, halter tops, and no shirt (woo hoo, depending upon one's preference). The rock was warm and comfortable. Note that the steep, shaded road section to Cactus was wet (with some snow) and somewhat slick.

Shelf's Dark Side was, well, dark. Still some snow in the gullys and on ledges.

Overall, climbing is quite good now. Just be prepared to chase sun or shade to keep the preferred temperature.


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Expect crowds at both High Wire and Catslab -- they're the easiest crags in the canyon. And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.

So what would you rate pitch 3 of People's Choice? I've done it twice now and would like to compare notes.

-Tim


shorty


Mar 16, 2004, 6:25 PM
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And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.

So what would you rate pitch 3 of People's Choice? I've done it twice now and would like to compare notes.
According the shorty-o-meter....If I can lead it, it can't be that hard.

To me, it feels like there's a 10b-ish move in the dihedral (10c per the guide) and a 10c-ish move over the bulge above the dihedral (10d per the guide). Maybe I was just having a good day, or my height works well with the bulge move. But I've been shut down by lower grades in other locations. However, I do feel the grades within CCC are relatively consistent among each other (given the wimpy routes I can hack my way up).

By the way, I'm not arguing for changing ratings in CCC. I just seem to be able to climb a little harder there.


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 6:37 PM
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And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.

So what would you rate pitch 3 of People's Choice? I've done it twice now and would like to compare notes.
According the shorty-o-meter....If I can lead it, it can't be that hard.

To me, it feels like there's a 10b-ish move in the dihedral (10c per the guide) and a 10c-ish move over the bulge above the dihedral (10d per the guide). Maybe I was just having a good day, or my height works well with the bulge move. But I've been shut down by lower grades in other locations. However, I do feel the grades within CCC are relatively consistent among each other (given the wimpy routes I can hack my way up).

By the way, I'm not arguing for changing ratings in CCC. I just seem to be able to climb a little harder there.

I'll buy that. I found the diehedral to be psychologically intimidating, but physically less so. If you can hold your head together, you can stem and rest all the way up. The tricky bulge does seem harder, but I probably didn't climb it right. Hah! Golden Cliffs has consistently shut me down lately for some reason. It's gone daddy gone. Love is gone...

And yes, we should climb at Shelf within a weekend or so.


bustinmins


Mar 16, 2004, 8:20 PM
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Catslab - 0900 - I'm a definate maybe. I had promised a couple of friends that I would take them on a hike....however they do arise later than most friends. I'm thinking they can wait until I'm done with baggin that 8 on the left flank of the Catslab! :)

I'll be there peeps - unless something really strange happens.

I'm REALLY bummed. I'm sitting here in Tucson. I'm supposed to be in L.A. right now. I had intended to go to Joshua Tree tomorrow morning and bag some routes. FOG moved in earlier than forecast and has ruined my plans. I was able to take my backpack, complete with rope and trad rack, through TSA's security line in Nashville. I hope Tucson is as friendly to my rack and transportation needs. I don't know if I would have made it passed if I hadn't been in uniform - who knows. :)

I'm still planning on Eldo on Sunday. See you there as well.

I'm still looking for a second to climb "Bomb" (4) on the Wind Tower - anyone game?

Peace and happiness,

JD


ajoys


Mar 16, 2004, 9:23 PM
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If you want, I will be more then happy to second it.

Have you thought about breezy? I haven't climbed it but from the ground it looks like a better climb.


zozo


Mar 17, 2004, 5:20 AM
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I might not have a camera on Sunday, can anyone else bring a digy?


zozo


Mar 17, 2004, 5:28 AM
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Score one Martha for work on Saturday!

UGH! :x

Sunday at Eldo is still an option.

Work?! Where the heck are your priorities?! Actually if i had a job I might have the gas money to climb both days. I take that back.

:x

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And zozo, a weekend at Shelf SOON is a must-do! It has to be warming up there nicely. Any takers for the month of April? (PS out of town April 13-19, but otherwise free)

If you get lost between the moon and New York City..... I know its crazy.... but it's true.


mother_sheep


Mar 17, 2004, 7:04 AM
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And zozo, a weekend at Shelf SOON is a must-do! It has to be warming up there nicely.
Shelf's Cactus Cliff is getting quite warm on sunny days. Two weeks ago it was warm enough by 11am for shorts, halter tops, and no shirt (woo hoo, depending upon one's preference). The rock was warm and comfortable. Note that the steep, shaded road section to Cactus was wet (with some snow) and somewhat slick.

Shelf's Dark Side was, well, dark. Still some snow in the gullys and on ledges.

Overall, climbing is quite good now. Just be prepared to chase sun or shade to keep the preferred temperature.

Roger what Shorty said. Even earlier than 2 weeks ago on Valentines Day weekend, I was running around Cactus in shorts and tank top. The air was cool but boy up against the rock it really bakes!

I'd be up for Shelf. By far my favorite sport climbing area thus far, in Colorado anyway.


crazyfingers


Mar 17, 2004, 9:56 AM
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I should be able to bring a 3.2 digital camera to Eldo on Sunday... that is if its not being used for snap shots of the flatlander relatives in Breck... definite maybe. :roll:


ajoys


Mar 17, 2004, 2:04 PM
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I'm still planning on Eldo on Sunday. See you there as well.

I'm still looking for a second to climb "Bomb" (4) on the Wind Tower - anyone game?

Peace and happiness,

JD

If you still need a partner to second the climb, let me know, I would be more then happy to do it. We can climb Breezy also.


nthusiastj


Mar 17, 2004, 8:14 PM
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How many trad leaders will we have Sunday? I know Bustinmins and I are up for some leads. Who else? I am just trying to get an idea for groups.

Jeremy


elcommunisto


Mar 18, 2004, 3:22 AM
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I'm starting to question Sunday. I wan't to go, but with no gear (outside of harness, shoes and ATC) and no experience climbing outside, I feel I'd be more of a hinderance than anything. If you guys are willing to put up with a (weak) outdoor n00b, then I'll still go. Just want to make sure that you guys aren't all planning to do stuff that I can't.

EC


zozo


Mar 18, 2004, 5:45 AM
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I'm starting to question Sunday. I wan't to go, but with no gear (outside of harness, shoes and ATC) and no experience climbing outside, I feel I'd be more of a hinderance than anything. If you guys are willing to put up with a (weak) outdoor n00b, then I'll still go. Just want to make sure that you guys aren't all planning to do stuff that I can't.

EC

I wouldnt worry about it, I dont know the area we are going to be climbing in but Im sure they will more than a few climbs for you to do. And I think there are going to be few people with similar climbing history as yours.


bustinmins


Mar 18, 2004, 6:51 AM
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I'm starting to question Sunday. I wan't to go, but with no gear (outside of harness, shoes and ATC) and no experience climbing outside, I feel I'd be more of a hinderance than anything. If you guys are willing to put up with a (weak) outdoor n00b, then I'll still go. Just want to make sure that you guys aren't all planning to do stuff that I can't.

EC

Don't let that stop you! :) We'll find a way to get you up an easy route....believe me. There are some things that are different about climbing outside but it isn't something you can't pick up pretty easily. The rappel is the best part! :) Piece of cake to do - if you can belay - you can rap. I'll set you up on an auto-lock rap backup and you'll be just fine. :) In fact, you'll probably prefer to rap than to be lowered - just my .02.

I am up for some simple single pitch work on the whale's tail or taking a single person up the wind tower. This will be my first multi-pitch lead on trad. I know I can do this but just don't expect me to be speedy about getting up the route or setting up the anchor. :)

If a group of you would rather play on the whale's tail and go up the 5.2:4:5 routes they have there - we can certainly play around with that. With a reverso, I can belay two people at the same time so that makes three that can climb in a group. If some of you would rather play with placements of pro - I'm game to work with you on that as well.

However - I would like to climb the BOMB or BREEZY on the wind tower. Both are 5.4 and should be fun. :)


timstich


Mar 18, 2004, 6:54 AM
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How many trad leaders will we have Sunday? I know Bustinmins and I are up for some leads. Who else? I am just trying to get an idea for groups.

Jeremy

I lead up to 5.8 Eldo and have a full trad rack. I also have an extra rope if we need it and several 25 ft. webbing lengths. So we can set up numberous topropes. And don't anyone worry about learning to rappel. We can just lower you if you like.

-Tim


rltodd00


Mar 18, 2004, 7:03 AM
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Hi everyone,

I wouldn’t mind getting in on this group thing, It might take me a while to get back into leading but I would definitely be up for some seconding. I have a good bit of trad gear and a couple of ropes but probably lacking in the webbing and runner dept. (I always seem to come up short at the beginning of the year). I used to climb 5.8 trad but that was a while back and probably would not be able to pull that off on lead right now but I could second for sure or maybe lead something easy. I live in the Co Springs area so if anyone down here wants to ride together let me know.

Rob


zozo


Mar 18, 2004, 7:59 AM
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I live in the Co Springs area so if anyone down here wants to ride together let me know.

Rob

Im in the springs to, there will be a car leaving the springs about 7:00 am. Gadsendflag wants a ride up to. Probably we will meet at the gym off northpark. Splitting gas would be awesome. I would need to leave at 2:00

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