Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Routefinding on the OR

Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Routefinding on the OR

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j_ung

Mar 18, 2004, 11:36 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Routefinding on the OR (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Western: Whiteside_Mountain) Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I'm headed to Whitesides Saturday for the OR, but neither I nor my partner have ever done it. I hear the routefinding is tricky. Any Whitesides veterans have any tips?

buckwheatgoespasting

Mar 18, 2004, 11:43 AM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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Re: Routefinding on the OR [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Get "Selected Climbs in North Carolina". I've done the route several times and as I recall, the beta in the book is pretty accurate. You may also want to check the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site and check for cliff closures regarding the Perrigrine Falcons.. I'm not sure if they affect the OR or not. Be safe, and start early !
Buchwheat goes pasting

j_ung

Mar 18, 2004, 12:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Re: Routefinding on the OR [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Thanks bwgp. I'll be sure to copy the OR pages out of Harrison and Yon's book. I checked with the FS and the closure is only from Mainline over. The OR is fair game... as long we get there early enough :wink: .

bumblie

Mar 18, 2004, 1:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Re: Routefinding on the OR [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

J, Check out this site. http://www.southeastclimbing.com/climbing_areas/north_carolina/whiteside_mt.htm#cliff
... if for no other reason, to get info on where the trail leaves the main trail.

Once you reach the base, it's a long way to the start of the route. Just keep walking.

Travel light - hike in w/ sandals, both climbers use a camelbak. Forget about a pack.

With topos from Kelley's and Yon's books you should be okay.

Climb w/ double ropes.

The first pitch is clearly the mental crux. The 5.10 section and the 5.11 section are protected.

After the 5.11 section, consider heading up left to finish on the next route over. Two pitches of 5.9 v. three pitches of 5.4. You make the call.

Camping in the parking lot is a big no no. There was a thread a while back about where to camp.

Hope it's dry. :wink:

floridaputz

Mar 18, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
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Re: Routefinding on the OR [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

The OR route finding cruxes, 1) the climbers trail exit from main trail approach. can be wet & muddy. see book. 2) To find the start traverse the base of the cliff (look up at the South's biggest wall) when the ground starts rising up you are there. The first pitch is not that bad (if you've climbed @ Stone Mt !) 3) Look at the topo in the book it's pretty good. 2 & 3 move left to smaller and smaller grassy ledges. After this it's not really that hard to follow. Bring a 3.5 BD cam for the 5.10 pitch. You will see where to put it. Arter the 11 pitch you traverse right and up 2 more pitches or finish on 5.9 ( as mentioned previously) can be wet here. It makes a BIG "C" If you are afraid to run out 5.7 & below don't bother.