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fixed draws
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kriso9tails


Aug 7, 2001, 6:05 PM
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fixed draws
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How many people feel perfectly safe on them? I remember having to manually close each gate on a route in the Madness Cave (Ky) because they were so old / used. Would you generally pefer to have them on some routes (where they're impossible to retrieve without seconding), or would you still rather use your own?


tankshild


Aug 7, 2001, 7:04 PM
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i would rather use my own. the only time i use equiptment that i dont know the history of is if it belongs to a trusted freind


manboy


Aug 7, 2001, 11:25 PM
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Fixed draws are fine. in the Madness cave most of the draws close just fine, maybe on 40 Ounces there's a few more sticky gates than other routes, but not every one. places like the Madness cave require fixed draws, and if it were finacially fesable, i think all sport area's such as the motherlode should have fixed draws. (DMM said they were going to replace all of the madness cave draws, but never got around to it). Places like Rifle CO have stainless steal bieners and chain instead of slings for the fixed draws. that's the bomb, but expensive (props to Herman for all his effort there and all the routes he fixed!).

if you don't trust them, put in your own (in the Madness cave on any of the routes after the no-hands rest ledge, even if your last 2 bolts broke, you would still be nowhere near a ground fall. i took a 100 footer off the madness last year. i skipped all the draws on the head wall and jumped from above the anchor, and my belayer had slack on the ground! it was rad.

fixed draws rule.


kriso9tails


Aug 8, 2001, 10:44 AM
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fixed draws [In reply to]
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Who actually placed those draws. An individual climber or an organization?


manboy


Aug 8, 2001, 11:02 AM
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Locals fixed them. alot of the time who ever put up the route fixed the draws. (they are as much a part of the route as the bolts are). Porter Jarard fixed the ones on 40 Ounces, and i think the Madness and Bohica too. Flower Power doesn't have fixed draws, and i think Bill fixed the ones on Omaha Beach and his new 14a that i forget the name for. and i think Herman fixed a bunch in Rifle on routes in the Arsenal and other walls too.

Often times "Fixed draws" are not perminant, but rather just up while somebody is working on the route, sometimes somebody will leave their draws on a route for several weeks, months, or even years. and some routes get so much traffic that there is always draws on them. who ever is working it leaves them, then when they send it or leave, somebody else will put up new ones only a day or two later. it will continue like this on a regular basis. i have seen routes that ALWAYS have draws on them, but not always the same draws. If you see fixed draws, feel free to climb on them, just don't take them because they are not "booty" (fixed draws are usally only on routes 5.13 and harder).


kagunkie


Aug 8, 2001, 11:04 AM
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Just take one of those pocket-sized cans of WD-40 and tape a small loop of thin cord to it and cary it with you then you can give just a small squirt of lubricant to those sticky biners, that may be all they need. Things have to be maintained and someones gotta do it.


beyond_gravity


Jan 12, 2002, 7:24 PM
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kagunkie, Do not Use WD40, it's a lubricant that attachs dirt and grit. Go to a cycle shop and get somthing called Bull-Shot, which is made to rappel dirt as well as lubricate.


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