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bustinmins
Mar 17, 2004, 7:38 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Hello everyone. I'm going to do my first multi-pitch trad routes on lead very soon. I was curious if anyone has any experience on these routes and if they could tell me if the anchors are straight forward pro and cordelette type anchors? Where is the best rap from the summit?
Thanks for the beta - I"m going to research the routes section now.
JD
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cedk
Mar 17, 2004, 7:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2001
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Never climbed 'em.
But check this out for Eldo research:
http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/eldorado_canyon/
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atg200
Mar 17, 2004, 7:50 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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breezy is a walk off. you can build an anchor on it just about anywhere with anything.
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timstich
Mar 18, 2004, 1:33 AM
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I'll fill you in on what I have found on the topouts of Wind Tower. The tops of pitch 2 of most climbs land you at one of the rotten bands. Above there the rock is typically loose, but can be of average quality. There is a single rap in a notch on the north side if you want to return to the base of the climb without walkning all the way down the East face. The traverse to the notch is fairly easy. There's a big cable near it.
All told the only iffy anchor I have encountered on Wind Tower was at the top of P1 of Wind Ridge. Kind of spread out crack, but a nice place to sit.
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charley
Mar 18, 2004, 3:55 AM
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I did the bomb last year. The first belay is a tree and the second is two bolted hangers. We did not do the third pitch because of poor rock and one guidebook said don't bother. 60 meter rope does not quite reach the tree. we rapped off the rope and down climbed a cpl feet. The first move offthe ground was a bit awkward but just do it and the climb is fine.
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helmut
Mar 18, 2004, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
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For the bomb I actually wouldn't suggest belaying from the tree for the first pitch, I would use that for the 2nd rap though. The first pitch I like to lead up to the big ledge and belay from there, you have to be to a little creative with the anchor to get a good seat with minimal rope drag over the edge, but it's not too difficult and the ledge is huge so it's a great place to practice. The top of the 2nd pitch is a set of double bolts.
Never did Breezy but the Bomb is a good choice for 1st multipitch experience, the pro on the 1st pitch is great, on the 2nd it's a little runnout I think I only found like 6 or so good pieces in 90 feet or so, but it's a chimney so it feels solid. Great views of the Bastille.
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dino
Mar 18, 2004, 6:44 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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For Breezy: Can be done in two pitches or one. If done in two make your first belay at the obvious ledge. If you do it in one (to the walk-off ledge) you'll need a directional at this obvious ledge. At the walk-off ledge you will need to be very creative for a good belay; its there but you need look for it. If done in one pitch it will take most of your 60m rope. climbingboulder.com is your best resource for these routes.
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skywalker
Mar 22, 2004, 6:48 AM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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Honestly they both can one in one pitch. As mentioned, The top part of the Wind tower is of lesser quality. If you need the summit high Wind Ridge's last pitch (just move right a few feet and pull the funky roof) is the way to go and will put you right there for the rap anchors.
For "Bomb". If you can build a solid anchor save a tree, your back, and chance of knocking down small (big?) rocks getting into position at the tree; belay at the spacious belay with the sweet crack running through it. You can Rap from sweet anchors on top pitch 2. Traverse left at the prominent ledge and traverse left to Calypso's anchors (115ft) to the ground.
My opinion, do Breazy first as the climbing is higher quality, logistically straight forward (walk off P1&2), and...well better quality. But if you have a full day you could certainly do both AND wind ridge. The start of Breazy is the crux by the way, but good pro.
Cheers!
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bustinmins
Mar 23, 2004, 1:41 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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I led the bomb this past weekend. Great route. I had to runout the top 25-30 feet because I had to use my 4 camalot in the anchor below. Someone had set up an anchor already and had to use what is available. My first BIG runout. It was mentally stimulating - shall we say. :)
Thanks for the beta and links. You guys helped a lot. I look forward to Breezy, Boulder Direct and Pseudo-Sidetrack.
JD
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stevematthys
Mar 25, 2004, 5:12 AM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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check out my web site, it is the featured site on the front page. it has beta and topos for those routes
here is the link straight to the Wind Tower Page
http://www.geocities.com/climb_eldorado/routes_wind_tower.html
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