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barry1789
Mar 28, 2004, 10:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 23, 2004
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Hey ok well i have been climbing for a little while but i took a break (6 months) cause i broke 3 fingers on my left hand middle over not my pointer well now i am trying to get back into shape for it and i really need to get those fingers stronger but i need to get my whole body back into shape does anyone know a good program i have a place to boulder i have a board and i have some weights so any help would be nice thanks all
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muncher
Mar 28, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
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I think the hardest part of getting back into climbing after an extended time off is the mental aspects. The fact that you now really struggle to get up routes easier than your old warmups can be pretty demoralising but at least you still have the techique so your rate of imporvement will be quite rapid up to the point you left off, if you use the right strategies.
Checkout http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/articles/index.html for some great training advice. I would recomend starting with low intensity/high volume climbing to get your endurance back and to slowely build up the strength in your fingers. After a month or so of that, start doing some bouldering or strength and power focused training and finally move onto some interval or anaerobic training.
Combine this with some running or swimming three or four times a week for at least half an hour and you will be cranking on in no time. I like the swimming because it not only keeps me in shape for surfing but is way less stressfull on your body, I find it loosens me up after a day at the crags where running I would just be completely fu$%ed.
This kind of program worked quite well for me after I had about 18 months off a while back. 6 months into it and I was sending way harder than where I had left off.
Maybe even get a copy of Eric Horst's book training for climbing. It has heaps of helpful information about imporving your climbing pretty much no matter what ability you are.
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overlord
Mar 29, 2004, 8:09 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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take is SLOW.
as for general fitness, i suggest some cardio excercises (like running, swimming...) combined with core strength excercises.
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