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timstich
Mar 28, 2004, 5:24 AM
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I think it's safe to say we've all had our share of dead end road trips. Took a second trip up to Rumney from the coast once - a multi-hour drive. Got to the rainy parking lot, looked at the rain on the windshield, and then just drove back.
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timstich
Mar 28, 2004, 3:35 PM
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Hey, anyone who still climbs in that kind of weather can climb wit us anytime. Yo yo yo.
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rltodd00
Mar 28, 2004, 6:08 PM
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Yea the snow and rain sucked but thats just part of climbing. If we hadnt gone it would have been sunny and 75 degrees. Overall I had a pretty good time. It was worth it just to see Dave in his makeshift bivy/rope-tarp. Thanks to Larry for the beta and driving again. I think shelf is going to be a regular hotspot for me this summer looks like alot of excellent bolted routes. Larry and I are going to Zion next weekend so I won't be around thurs.- Sun. but the weekend after I'll be ready for some more climbing. Thanks for posting the pictures Dave, Ill get the ones I took developed, scanned and sent to you. later, Rob
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getupgetupgethi
Mar 28, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Howdy and welcome to the Rodeo... I'm looking for a professional bullriding partner too... Just joking... I've been living in Denver for the past 4 years and have been climbing for about 6 years total. I'm looking for a fun group of yahhooz that are into trad and maybe a little sport. Plus fun times camping and howling at the full moon. I have alot of gear and can lead trad up to 5.10... and follow tough 5.11. I'm looking to do alot of climbing this summer up in RMNP. Anyone interested ??? Cheers, -Ty (climber514d@hotmail.com)
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nthusiastj
Mar 29, 2004, 12:06 AM
Post #307 of 7199
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Hey, Holly & I did the Direct Route on the first Flatiron today. I can attest to the wicked runouts on especially the first pitch. It also started snowing on about the 4th pitch and we ended up bailing over the back early. You gotta love wet sandstone...
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flamer
Mar 29, 2004, 12:41 AM
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In reply to: You gotta love wet sandstone... The stuff in the flatirons isn't true sandstone...it isn't effected as much by the moisture. It does get slick, but not weak like the stuff in the desert. Sucks to get rained on no matter what you're climbing!!! Wow this thread went and got HUGE!! Any room for another noob? josh
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hstewart
Mar 29, 2004, 12:44 AM
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jeremy is really just being modest. it was seriously a hail storm turned blizzard....complete with puddles. i think we can claim our first winter/alpine ascent. :wink:
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sharpie
Mar 29, 2004, 12:49 AM
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
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timstich
Mar 29, 2004, 1:00 AM
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In reply to: jeremy is really just being modest. it was seriously a hail storm turned blizzard....complete with puddles. i think we can claim our first winter/alpine ascent. :wink: Ha ha ha! I actually know a guy who got caught up there free soloing without a rope. Not fun climbing on iced up slab like that. Needless to say, he required assistance to get down.
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timstich
Mar 29, 2004, 1:03 AM
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In reply to: ...I'm looking to do alot of climbing this summer up in RMNP. Anyone interested ??? Cheers, -Ty (climber514d@hotmail.com) Alpine rock routes or snow climbs? I'll be ready for alpine snow routes by then. Just got some boots. As for the numbskullery, yeah, you'll fit right in. Ha ha ha!
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zozo
Mar 29, 2004, 1:19 AM
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In reply to: Hey, anyone who still climbs in that kind of weather can climb wit us anytime. Yo yo yo. Just keepin it real.....so where are we going on sunday ya'all?
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neph
Mar 29, 2004, 1:25 AM
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In reply to: Hey, Holly & I did the Direct Route on the first Flatiron today. I can attest to the wicked runouts on especially the first pitch. It also started snowing on about the 4th pitch and we ended up bailing over the back early. You gotta love wet sandstone... heh.. we were going to climb the 2nd today, and saw you guys starting up the third pitch or so. We made it to the base of the 2nd and were racking up just as it started snowing hard, so we turned around and went home. I was glad that we were lazy and got a late start, otherwise we woulda been up there too. Its not the wet sandstone you have to worry about, its the wet runout slab climbing. :P Glad to hear you made it down ok :)
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timstich
Mar 29, 2004, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Hey, anyone who still climbs in that kind of weather can climb wit us anytime. Yo yo yo. Just keepin it real.....so where are we going on sunday ya'all? Your pick. I just want to go somewhere new.
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zozo
Mar 29, 2004, 2:57 AM
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Its all new to me - 11 mile sounds fine to me, I can only climb on sunday cause Im doing one of those kids groups on saturday. This will be my last one of those however! What does everybody else say to 11 mile?
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nthusiastj
Mar 29, 2004, 4:58 AM
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LUMPY, LUMPY, LUMPY... Yeah Flamer like you are a gumby. Remember some people on here have actually climbed with you. The Red Rocks speed ascents don't back you up either. BTW, cna you piont me to a ultra classic .8 at Lumpy?
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mother_sheep
Mar 29, 2004, 6:21 AM
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In reply to: Its all new to me - 11 mile sounds fine to me, I can only climb on sunday cause Im doing one of those kids groups on saturday. This will be my last one of those however! What does everybody else say to 11 mile? Hey zozo! I'm back! I missed you! Kids group? Kids and climbing? Can I come? Pleez! Pleez!
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flamer
Mar 29, 2004, 7:44 AM
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In reply to: LUMPY, LUMPY, LUMPY... BTW, cna you piont me to a ultra classic .8 at Lumpy? I can try! Check out Grapevine on sundance. It has the best chimney pitch on lumpy! You don't even need big gear. Melvin's wheel is good. So is pear buttress, in fact this might be the one to do. It's got some super fun liebacking. When the snow melt's alittle more go check out Nun's buttress on deer ridge Butt.- one of the best 5.8's around. josh
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bustinmins
Mar 29, 2004, 11:53 AM
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Jeremy, take a peek at the "Wolf's Tooth" located in the Twin Owls area at Lumpy. I believe it is a 7 or an 8. The book says it is a Lumpy Classic. No beta on rc.com on "Wolf's Tooth" except that it says "Wolf's Tooth doesn't necessarily feel like a moderate route". Implying that it is harder or has a sand bagged rating. I think it is listed as a 7. Otherwise, it wouldn't be on my "to do" list this year. :) I think you'll like it. If you climb it - give us some beta in the routes section. It's a late season goal for me but it is on my list. JD
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zozo
Mar 29, 2004, 12:01 PM
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For us from the springs Lumpy is an awfully long drive. I was hoping to find something in the middle thats why I was thinking South Platte / 11 Mile. If I had saturday free I wouldnt mind coming up fri night and climbing at Lumpy all weekend. Maybe when it gets warmer. Anyway just a thought. Flamer I plan on living at shelf road this summer, anytime you want to get a REAL noob up some of those .10,.11's just say the word.
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zozo
Mar 29, 2004, 3:48 PM
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In reply to: Hey zozo! I'm back! Hey! Welcome back, from those pics rolling in it looks like you had a great time!
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holmeslovesguinness
Mar 29, 2004, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: So is pear buttress, in fact this might be the one to do. It's got some super fun liebacking. josh PB is definitely a super sweet route. If 5.8 is pushing your limit then it's kinda committing in a few places (depending on which variation you do).
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shorty
Mar 29, 2004, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: BTW, cna you piont me to a ultra classic .8 at Lumpy? I'd agree with flamer's two thumbs up for Grapevine, Melvin's Wheel, Pear Buttress, and Nun's Buttress. Note that Pear Buttress' start is 20' or so of thin, unprotected 5.7 face climbing. If you blow the opening moves, you're coming down onto a blade of rock that has shattered ankles. Per Accidents in North America (& a quick word with a climbing ranger a few years ago), Pear Buttress is second only to J-Crack for official evacuations at Lumpy. Pear Buttress is a stunning route with good pro after 25' -- just have your game face on for the first lead. Nun's Buttress is a good climb, but I felt it's a fairly long approach for the two really good pitches (P3 isn't much of anything). Worth doing once, though. Wolf's Tooth is also very good. It may seem hard for 5.8, but I think it's due to the physical nature of the climb -- wide cracks take a little more effort than face climbs. Backflip (normally 5.9) in the book area can be done as a 5.8, but you'll miss some of best parts of the climb. Eumenides at Sundance is a good 5.8, although not a classic like its neighbor Grapevine. Currently there are closures in the Twin Owls area, but once they open up Organ Pipes and Cackle Crack are good.
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flamer
Mar 29, 2004, 5:02 PM
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In reply to: Wolf's Tooth is also very good. It may seem hard for 5.8, but I think it's due to the physical nature of the climb -- wide cracks take a little more effort than face climbs. Agreed, wolf's tooth feels abit sandbagged. Quit possibly due to the wide crack nature of it, but it's a good route! josh
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