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thinksinpictures
Apr 1, 2004, 9:11 AM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
Posts: 446
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Yup folks, it's happened. Patxi Usobiaga has repeated Realization and proposed a grade of 5.15c for the climb, two full grades higher than the presumed rating of .15a. I, um, can't find the link to the article right now, but I'm sure I'll be able to track it down by tomorrow.
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duckwalk
Apr 1, 2004, 9:13 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
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this was the first repeat, right?
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duckwalk
Apr 1, 2004, 9:15 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
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damn, its april fools, isn't it. Ive been had :x
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kalcario
Apr 1, 2004, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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That thing's pretty wet right now...he will do it this year though I bet
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namascar
Aug 4, 2004, 3:28 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2003
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He (Patxi Usobiaga) finally got it, but refused to rate it. He is the third person now, after Chris Sharma and Sylvain Millet.
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kalcario
Aug 4, 2004, 9:15 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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see I told ya
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topher
Aug 4, 2004, 10:15 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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its still un rated.. i do agree with patxi that doing the exctention shouldnt change the name... the climb never really ends before the top..
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vanclimber
Aug 4, 2004, 11:04 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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In reply to: . the climb never really ends before the top...
But does it really end at the top? From the Dosage video, it looks like the high anchor is really just over the bulge on the slabby bit. There may be a second pitch of 5.9 or so waiting for an FA!
Don
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zation
Aug 4, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2004
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In reply to: its still un rated.. i do agree with patxi that doing the exctention shouldnt change the name...
I thought the first person to climb it names it. The anchors were put in long before anyone made it to the top and only half of that was climbed when it had the old name.
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ikefromla
Aug 4, 2004, 11:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Unless I didn't read something you (topher) did... which is unlikely cuz i'm such a fucking nerd that i read all the goddamn climbing media... Sylvain Millet was the one who wouldn't reffer to it as "Realization," but rather still "Biographie," because "it never really ends." I say this is BOGUS. If it doesn't end at the first anchor, than Chris got the FA of the true line...
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thomasribiere
Aug 5, 2004, 1:45 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
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Biographie was equiped in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille (who just opened a route on the Makalu BTW) to the top.
In 1995, Arnaud Petit decided to put a belay in the middle to work the route. This first part is a 8c+.
In 1996, Arnaud Petit climbs this first part, as did Sharma in 97 and Sylvain Millet in 99.
In 2001, Sharma climbs the first and second part and names it Realization. It's not very important, but the tradition in France is to keep the name given by the opener, not by the FAist.
Sylvain Millet climbed it after around 100 tries since 1996... He didn't rate it after this 2nd ascent, because he doesnt' "have the feeling to have enough references to be able to say it's a 9a or a 9a+".
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andy_reagan
Aug 7, 2004, 1:29 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2004
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woopteefreakindoo
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coylec
Aug 7, 2004, 1:35 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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In reply to: In 2001, Sharma climbs the first and second part and names it Realization. It's not very important, but the tradition in France is to keep the name given by the opener, not by the FAist.
Smackdown by our resident frenchie! So the route is actually called Biographie? When in France ... do as the French do (drink, smoke and leave naming privilleges with the opener). I like it.
coylec
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