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why two ropes ice climbing
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knowsam


Apr 1, 2004, 11:36 AM
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why two ropes ice climbing
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I've seen lots of photos of people ice climbing with two half rope rather than one full rope. I'm assuming that this provides extra security incase one breaks but why only in ice climbing? I would think that there is a greater risk of severing a rope on a sharp rock ledge than a sharp ice ledge?


tucsonalex


Apr 1, 2004, 11:38 AM
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Re: why two ropes ice climbing [In reply to]
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Ice climbers have sharp metal objects strapped to their hands and feet.


overlord


Apr 1, 2004, 11:41 AM
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if you accidentally hit one with your crampons or axe, youll know why.


Partner tim


Apr 1, 2004, 11:44 AM
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In reply to:
I've seen lots of photos of people ice climbing with two half rope rather than one full rope. I'm assuming that this provides extra security incase one breaks but why only in ice climbing? I would think that there is a greater risk of severing a rope on a sharp rock ledge than a sharp ice ledge?

26 sharp points per climber
many, many meetings of these sharp points with the ice per pitch
sometimes the rope is present for said meetings of point and ice

get it?

Every time you kick in your crampons, the wind may blow a rope into the way. Better to have two chances than just one, and besides, that way you can do full length rappels.


lovesclimbing


Apr 1, 2004, 11:46 AM
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Double ropes and half ropes are becoming more popular but not just in ice climbing, half ropes are used mainly in ice and some alpine but doubles are becoming more popular. The reasons are for reliblity, rope drag and such, but I think the biggest is so that when climbing you don't have to cary that 4 year old damn rap rope if your are mainly following :lol:


capn_morgan


Apr 1, 2004, 5:13 PM
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In reply to:
Double ropes and half ropes are becoming more popular but not just in ice climbing, half ropes are used mainly in ice and some alpine but doubles are becoming more popular. The reasons are for reliblity, rope drag and such, but I think the biggest is so that when climbing you don't have to cary that 4 year old damn rap rope if your are mainly following :lol:

Double Ropes = Half Ropes i.e. two different names for the same thing.

Twin ropes are when you clip both cords together as one. Double or half ropes are clipped independantly. With a little bit of research you should be able to find more information about both of these setups than you could possibly want to know.


rendog


Apr 1, 2004, 6:20 PM
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double ropes reduce the impact force on you gear. coupled with a screamer and you really don't have to worry about your screws ripping out. unless thy're in really $hitty ice

also it makes it a lot easier rapping down having two 60s instead of just one


Partner tradman


Apr 9, 2004, 8:13 AM
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In reply to:
also it makes it a lot easier rapping down having two 60s instead of just one

And it stops arguments about who has to haul the rope, you get one each.

:lol:


tradmanclimbs


Apr 9, 2004, 8:39 AM
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The 4 reasons that I use doubles on ICE and and multi pitch rock are. #1 It is awsome to be able to bail with full length raps in case of storm or getting spanked. #2 I HATE carrying that old fuzzy fat watersoaking HEAVY rap rope . If I have to carry 2 ropes i might as well climb with both of them. #3 Doubble rope system dramaticly reduces impact force on your gear. especialy if you do rip gear. If the red rope rips your first piece and you staggered your clips the blue rope will hit the second piece and it will be fresh and elastic, provideing a soft impact on said piece. When ripping gear with a single rope the rope gets streched on the first piece and hits the second piece without fully recovering. I experienced this first hand while ripping 3 pieces from an adventure climb a few years ago. I really felt that with double ropes that I wouldn't have zippered as much gear. #4 Reduces rope drag on long wadering trad pitches while allowing for speedy retrete.


knowsam


Apr 9, 2004, 5:13 PM
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tradman- that # 3 is a realy good point I'd never thought of. Just one more advantage that you get with double but not twin ropes.
Maybe I'm missing something from all this reading but it seems that twin ropes don't have any advantage over double ropes. Outside of a small cost savings and a bit easier rope handling the double rope has all the advantages of twins plus more. If I'm going to invest the money I'm thinking the doubles are the way to go. Thanks


graniteavenger


May 21, 2004, 3:10 AM
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Good choice, Double ropes are the way forward if you are into anything other than single pitch routes! They will take a bit of getting used to for rope managment, but you should have it dialed in a couple of trips. A tip for you: when starting out have your second hold off tying in until you have pulled most of the slack through, that way most of the twists/kinks in the ropes will have worked their way out and the ropes should be fine for the rest of your route!
Over here (England) most folks on the trad scene climb on doubles. Also, you can bring up 2 seconds at the same time, one on each strand (they won't run the risk of a big lead fall, so it is safe enough to do).


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