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tradmanclimbs
Apr 1, 2004, 12:02 PM
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What Is the access situation in BV caynon? When I was there in 96 you could drive in and people were camping? I know we crashed on the ground with out tents. Also what is the best guide to get and were to get it? I was there in 86 as well and noticed a climb just left of Prince of darkness with yellow hangers that we heard was called Yellow Brick RD? This was not in my red Urioste book from 1984. I belive we rapped yellow brick RD after doing PD. Does yellow brick rd still exist and if so why do you never hear anything about it? It looked like a mirror immage of PD. Thanks. nick
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dfrancom
Apr 1, 2004, 12:15 PM
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I know there is a climb left of Prince of Darkness called "Refried Brains" rated 5.9+. Maybe this is what you saw! Anyways last I heard there are too many climbers visiting Black Velvet canyon to allow for camping at the parking lot. At least that is what my guide book said. I think my book is called "Climbing Red Rocks" It seemed like the maps were a little confusing, but that might be my inability to read them.
Daniel
I go where the sun don't shine, CaVeS!!
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sbclimber
Apr 1, 2004, 12:21 PM
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In reply to: What Is the access situation in BV caynon? When I was there in 96 you could drive in and people were camping? I know we crashed on the ground with out tents. Also what is the best guide to get and were to get it? I was there in 86 as well and noticed a climb just left of Prince of darkness with yellow hangers that we heard was called Yellow Brick RD? This was not in my red Urioste book from 1984. I belive we rapped yellow brick RD after doing PD. Does yellow brick rd still exist and if so why do you never hear anything about it? It looked like a mirror immage of PD. Thanks. nick
Access is good, but no camping in the parking lot anymore. You will get a ticket. Yellow Brick road is a 3 pitch variation of "Dream of Wild Turkeys", starting at Dream's third pitch, I believe. It is really nice 5.10 climbing.
Oh yeah. Yellow Brick Road is just right of Prince of Darkness, so I'm not sure what route you are talking about.
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 1, 2004, 1:57 PM
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8) We are talking 18 years ago so it is quite possible that my recolections are off by a few minor details. when i was there in 96 we didn't climb in BV canyon just crashed there and climbed elsewere in the am. i definatly remember a long line of bolts that had yellow hangers that we rapped by. We did Dream of wild Turkeys on that trip as well as PD and if those yellow bolts were on my left then we were probobly on DWT. Anyone know how big of gear you need for Crimson Cryssalis? The red book sugests 6 inch but #4 camalot is my biggest Cam (eastern weini)
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vegastradguy
Apr 1, 2004, 2:05 PM
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pfff...you dont need anything bigger than a #3 camalot for Crimson. There's bolts where ever it's wide. Bolted belays and at least 6 bolts per pitch make it probably the safest route in Red Rocks.
watch your raps, it's a rope eater. :twisted:
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flamer
Apr 1, 2004, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: Anyone know how big of gear you need for Crimson Cryssalis? The red book sugests 6 inch but #4 camalot is my biggest Cam (eastern weini)
I wouldn't take anything bigger than a #2 camalot- and you might not use it!
I rope soloed it a couple of weeks ago and the biggest peice I placed was a #1.
Like VTG says it's pretty damn safe.
josh
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bones
Apr 1, 2004, 8:37 PM
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In reply to: Bolted belays and at least 6 bolts per pitch make it probably the safest route in Red Rocks.
You haven't climbed Sand Felipe have you? Puts a whole new spin on the phrase "sequential toproping".
There's definitely some overbolting going on in Red Rocks. :(
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 2, 2004, 7:05 AM
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I stil have my 1984 red Joanne Urioste guide. What is the best current book to buy? were is the easiest climbing shop to get to were we might find the guide? Any suggestions for long 5.9-5.10 climbs that might not be a zoo but still good gear and not too wide(weini easterners)? We will be there about a week. Were is best camping? thanks. Nick
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vegastradguy
Apr 2, 2004, 7:24 AM
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Desert Rock Sports carries the Swain Guide (Falcon guide). Head east into town on the road out of Red Rocks. About 10 minutes of driving, it's on your right hand side. There's also a gym there and showers.
Camping is at the 13 Mile Campground just before the loop road on your left.
5.9/5.10 classics that're good climbin in RR?
Ginger Cracks, 5.9 (Crimson's better neighbor)
Black Orpheus, 5.10a (classic...have to move quick, though...long approach/descent)
Sunflower, 5.9R (the slab climbin is a bit on the runout side, but the bolts and pro are good where there is pro. be solid on slab or this climb isnt for you)
SunDog, 5.9 (Sunflower's neighbor. It's Horndogger Select in Swain. You can avoid the first pitches by doing the Solar Slab Gully and then stepping right to the climb. The crux isnt bad and there's bolts at your waist for it. The top 15 feet or so is wide, but you can sort of protect it with a #3 camalot at the bottom...then just pull through. The move isnt tough, it's 5.8+ or so)
Refried Brains, 5.9 (classic BV climbin!)
Triassic Sands, 5.10c (short, but classic)
Wholesome Fullback, 5.10a (short as well, but do this with Triassic and you've got a great day...)
Sour Mash, 5.10a (another BV climb)
Frigid Air Buttress, 5.9+ (nice alpine feel...great climb)
That should hold you over for a week or so.... :)
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 2, 2004, 7:39 AM
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8) Thank you much. Great info. I seem to recall doing the triasic sands/ wholesome Fullback thing in 86. Also rember a VERRY SCARY rap off the top of whisky peak from the top of one of those climbs. The 1/4 inch studds were flexing with the sandstone crumbled out arround them and the hangers had no nuts just sport tape holding them on :shock:
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