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highballer


Apr 9, 2002, 9:46 PM
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quickdraws
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hey everyone,
i just bought some quickdraws for sport climbing and i was wondering what advantages do you have if you buy the shorter ones over the longer ones or vise versa. i just bought some and i think the sling is five in.? if i needed too could i hook two of the draws together. thanks for helping a rookie.
mike

[ This Message was edited by: highballer on 2002-04-09 21:48 ]


miagi


Apr 9, 2002, 10:11 PM
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The different draw lengths can be used for two differnt things.
1. If the position of the rock could lead to "rope drag" you can use a longer draw to rid yourself of it. The longer draw will let the rope hang further away from the rock and not cause it to get snagged.
2. Sometimes people use longer draws if a bolt is near a crux or hard move. The longer draw allows to to get clipped into some pro easier before you make one of those hard moves.

As for clipping the draws together: I really havent seen anyone do this, but "I" probably would not try it. If you hook to draws together, the biner your hooking your rope to would be perpendicular to the rock instead of parallel. This could possibly cause backclipping if the draw were to rotate.


roadtrip


Apr 9, 2002, 10:59 PM
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First, dont clip two draws together. I don't even want to consider the implications. The fewer links in the chain the better.

As for draws, the short ones are sport draws, b/c the sewing takes the whole length and makes them stiffer(easier clipping). The long draws(7") are better for trad b/c they cause less rope drag and are less stiff, preventing walking pieces and are less likely to unclip in a fall. The most versatile trad draws are shoulder length slings, w/ the biners threaded though and the double loop clipped, which makes it the length of a long draw. This easily hangs on one's harness, and two loops can be easily unclipped to extend the sling. Hope that helps in deciding your preferences.


crux_clipper


Apr 10, 2002, 5:46 AM
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when you say join two drawsa together, do you mean a single biner between 2 draw slings? If so, i don't see a problem. But it might be a bit hard to organise on the rock face with one hand.


highballer


Apr 10, 2002, 1:11 PM
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yeah, like remove a biner out of one of the draws and connected them together. But my five in. ones should be alright huh?


mauriceb


Apr 10, 2002, 2:27 PM
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Kind of agree with crux_c, removing a biner from one end of a quickdraw and then cliping the other quicker into that runner would be tough with one hand. Although I don't know of a great way to rack longer slings (something is mentioned earlier) I usually have a couple shoulder length slings (over my shoulder) with biners ready to go in case I need soemthing longer than 5"-7".

my $0.02
maurice


crux_clipper


Apr 12, 2002, 6:22 AM
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Read my article. It has a section about runners.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?ID=76

Mind you, it was my first article, so bear with it. If you don't get it, send me a PM and i will try to explain it better.


jt512


Apr 12, 2002, 7:16 PM
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If you need to clip two QDs together on a route to make a longer one, don't waste time and energy removing the superfluous biner. Just clip the second draw into the loop of the first draw and leave the extra biner in place.

-Jay


daggerx


Apr 13, 2002, 7:36 AM
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1. Stiff draws (short) are the best for spot because of their easy clipping.

2. for trad longer draws are the best because they help the gear no to walk.

3. If you plan to top rope and do mostly sport for a wile, I would get 2 long quick draws to set up TR with and I would get the rest of the draws in a short draw.

4. I have herd of people taking a biner out of a draw to connect to, but would never do this. There is way to much room for error.

DaggerX


crux_clipper


Apr 16, 2002, 4:55 AM
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I actually saw a photo in the recent Rock magazine, where someone had draws in the walls like you want to do. I suppose if you KNOW you will need to use one, then make it up beforehand.


killclimbz


Apr 16, 2002, 6:12 AM
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People clip two draws together all the time. It's most common to see this practice when someone is projecting a route and there is a hard clip. It's definitely better to use a longer draw if available. If not, just be wary of which way you are going to be climbing past the double draw, and how you clip it. You want to avoid twisting the draw around and the before mentioned back clipping issue.


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