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daggerx
Apr 10, 2002, 7:09 PM
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My new climbing partner is to weak to down climb and dont want to leave her gear (a beanier) on the wall if she cant do a sport route. I just told her to down climb or leave one, am I missing any thing? Also I tryed to explain to her how to get down if she tops out, but shes afarid, any suggestions their?
Thanks
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theamish
Apr 10, 2002, 7:42 PM
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It doesn't sound like she's ready for leading routes yet, according to your description. If you'll lead the climb, then let her top rope it, she will not have to worry with leaving a biner or down climbing. This will also take away, from her, haveing to do any rope work at the top of the climb.
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miagi
Apr 10, 2002, 7:42 PM
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You can find the answer to this question in the following two posts:
Here
and
Here
If she really afraid, let her practice on some more top rope till she is ready
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pianomahnn
Apr 10, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Seems you're putting your partner on climbs she isn't ready for.
Even with that in mind, if you're strong enough a climber, you should be able to finish the climb so no gear needs to be left.
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daggerx
Apr 11, 2002, 3:00 AM
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Their are 2 factors to consider that I did not put in my first post. 1. Some places were we climb, Their is no chance of repelling off or walking off from the top.
Also She is in the Red right now with a couple of other buddy's waithing on me to get out of school, so they are climbing by them selves and cant walk off many climbs or down climb.
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apollodorus
Apr 11, 2002, 3:34 AM
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You shouldn't rap from a single carabiner, or any single piece. A single bolt rap is probably the most insidious danger a climber can face: supposed to be bomber, but can still fail catastrophically. If your partner needs to bail from a climb, she needs to get some rap rings and webbing and use that to tie into at least two pieces, and preferably three or four. You live in an area that freezes in the winter, and that can wreak havoc on bolts. Water seeps into the hole, freezes and expands, and then the bolt can pull out. Safe climbing requires using more than one anchor at all times.
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addiroids
Apr 11, 2002, 3:50 AM
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Daggerx: Please proofread your posts before/after you submit them. There is no such thing as "repelling" in climbing except for,
"The sweater of hair on that fat old aid climber's back is repelling to the 19 year old ladies here. Please take him to the Mountain Room Bar now."
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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mpepe
Apr 11, 2002, 5:50 AM
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daggerx
Wow. Are you by chance the product of public education?
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daggerx
Apr 11, 2002, 7:53 PM
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Cali Dirtbag sorry for the bad grammer. Last night when posting the net was acting up and would not let me change my words.
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howitzer
Apr 11, 2002, 8:23 PM
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I think you need to be a bit more clear on what's happening here, dagger...
1. Why is one carabiner such an issue, and why is that her only piece of gear on the wall?!?
2. If she makes it to the top, why is she not belaying back down from fixed pro and she can take the biner out as she comes down??
3. When you say too weak, do you mean mentally or physically?
- either way it sounds like she is not ready to be sport climbing and needs to go back to TR until she is mentally and physically capable of tying into the sharp end....
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munckee
Apr 11, 2002, 9:04 PM
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Just a thought, but why are we ripping on this guy for his grammar? First off, he's probably just not putting forth the effort of a gramatically correct post (something we're all certainly guilty of on occassion). And second of all, maybe that was his best attempt at correct grammar. How would that make you guys feel? Aren't we all supposed to be here to help each other out?
Just my 2 cents; ignore it if you please.
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daggerx
Apr 14, 2002, 3:34 AM
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Actually if I put effort into it my grammer is usally good. But when Im on this board it is usally late at night, so im half a sleep.
DaggerX
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apollodorus
Apr 14, 2002, 9:02 AM
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Daggerx asked a question about climbing, not a critique of his writing skills. If you can understand the queston, answer it. And then use a red pen to mark any errors you see.
Many of us, the congnescenti, the literati, the fullofshitinati, can write volumes without error, eh?
But, RC.COM is not some sort of Shakespearean Writing Contest.
Why bag on someone who can't type as fast as they can think?
To judge someone's intelligence by the quality of their typing is about the same as judging someone by how many beers they can pound.
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melsitek
Apr 15, 2002, 10:18 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2002
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Hay I am from MI too where are you climbing???????????
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