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studmuffin
Apr 11, 2002, 5:29 AM
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I have a question, is it possible to solo while lead climbing. IE. The climber gets up the wall on his own, with no ropes being previousely anchored. I think it is, but a few climbing buddies of mine think differently. If it's possible,which i think it is, how would one go out doing this? Like, what's involved and what's the process that the climber has to go through in order to do this.
Thankyou.
Justin
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passthepitonspete
Apr 11, 2002, 5:50 AM
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Impossible!
Too dangerous!
Don't try this at home, kids!
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jonoj
Apr 11, 2002, 5:58 AM
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.... and just for saying that it's impossible, I bet some mad nutter will try to prove you wrong.
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apollodorus
Apr 11, 2002, 6:04 AM
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The Doc has been anesthesizing himself with his sterilizing solutions, and is unable to answer the question properly. He should be able to answer the question shortly.
Solo lead climbing is absolutely possible. In 1972 a new route on El Capitan, Cosmos, was successfully soloed by Jim Dunn.
There are numerous posts at RC.COM on solo climbing.
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boms
Apr 11, 2002, 9:31 AM
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of course you can, it's called soloing - see DanO,
just don't get tired, turn into a jibbering mess or try and push your grade, as then you may fall off.
(onsighting isn't a good idea)
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rrrADAM
Apr 11, 2002, 10:03 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Rope Solo -or- Free Solo.
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treyr
Apr 11, 2002, 11:33 AM
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No and dont even begin to try it!!
Trob
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studmuffin
Apr 12, 2002, 5:12 AM
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rope solo. Thanks guys
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compclimber
Apr 12, 2002, 7:14 AM
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Rope Soloing is completely possible, so don't pay any attention to the people who say it isn't.
Think about it: Let's say you just completed a nice short trad route, You've cleaned it and all you have to do is pull the rope down (since it was single pitch trad, you're only using one rope.) Your partner pulls one end of the rope, and your rope goes flying upward towards the anchors. "Oh sh*t" he/she yells as they remember they never took the knot out of that side of rope. As the knot slams into the first bolt of a two bolt anchor station you realize it's not coming down withought someone going up to get it. Now how the hell do you do that with only the one rope? The rope that is partially hanging there, half on the wall, half coiled in the dirt.
Here's what you do:
1) Find the end of rope that is still on the ground.
2) Find a place near the line of least resistance back up to the anchors for you to set an anchor.
3) Begin setting the anchor, keeping in mind that most force from a fall will be upward force.
4) Equalize your anchor, and clip it all together with two big locking crabs.
5) Tie a figure of eight on a bight, back it up, and clip it into the two opposing crabs, connecting your rope to the anchor.
6) (Since it is a emergency situation we're going to say you have a prussik, and a gri-gri) Attatch both the prussik and gri gri to the rope, now clip these into yourself.
7) Here's where it starts to get serious, so pay attention. As you move upward on the rock, re-climbing the route, you are going to place protection again.
8) As you place protection, you will clip the rope into the piece of pro. Keep in mind, that if you put pro above your waist, you are going to have to let out more slack to clip it. Not an easy thing to do when you're trying to maintain contact with the rock face.
9) As you continue up the rock face, you will keep placing pro.
10) Reaching the top, anchor in to the two bolt anchor, free your stuck rope, rap down both sides of the rope again. Upon reaching the bottom untie BOTH knots and pull the ropes again.
NOTE: At this hour of night, Currently 1:18 am, this is the best I could do. I'll try and revamp it to just entail rope soloing, but I figured I'd let you see where you might want to use rope soloing, and why it's a feasible skill to have.
[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2002-04-12 00:17 ]
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