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ikellen
Apr 9, 2004, 11:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
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Well after seeing that all three of the pines campgrounds are full for pretty much the entire summer, I am trying to figure out where I can camp for two days or so in the valley. Is there any backcountry camping that is legal? (i.e I wont get haggled by rangers). Facilities would be nice, but not neccesary as this will be a stop on a long road trip, and the next stop is a motel in Lee Vining so showers can be acquired there. Secondly, obviously big wall and multi-pitch climbing is quite abundant in the valley, but where are some good areas with single pitch sport or mixed leading? We simply dont have the gear or expertise to do multipitch or big walls, so we're stopping in the valley to experience the culture and maybe get a little climbing. I know the phrase "jerking off in a whorehouse" comes to mind with single pitch and bouldering in the valley, but its all we've got the gear for. Advice is greatly appreciated.
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couloir
Apr 9, 2004, 11:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2001
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As far as camping goes you can hit up camp4. It's $5 per person if it's not full. Or you could just camp out somwhere off the radar. The boulders above the ahwanee are good. Since you'll have a vehicle theres tons of places in the lower river canyon to get free camping(pm me if you want to know). As far as single pitch routes go there is tons. Shultzs Ridge would be good. Mostly bolted and mixed routes in the 5.10 range. Also check out Pat and Jack. Lots of 5.10 sport routes. Knobby wall is great if you climb very steep 5.11 or 5.12. There's tons of good bouldering everywhere as well.
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hendicrimpin
Apr 9, 2004, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 121
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You definitely won't be "jerking off in the whorehouse" :wink: The valley has some of the best cragging anywhere. Head to any cliff and you'll find a good bit of single pitch climbing. The bouldering rocks! : camp 4 boulders, cathedral, curry cabins, etc. You can do most of the routes with a relatively light rack and some good beta. There are a few sport climbs around(ver few).....but you're yose for gods sake! Camping wise - everything will be ridiculously packed, but the dirtbagger can always find a place to park and throw down your pad and bag behind some boulders somewhere(after dark). 8) The only thing you have to make sure of is a bear box for your food - you can find some if you look hard enough. I spent 2 months last summer there and ran out of money after 3 weeks - so trust me. Enjoy!
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hendicrimpin
Apr 9, 2004, 11:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
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If you have to legit camp, than get to camp 4 EARLY in the morning. I repeat EARLY. Course, if you'll be there in late july or august - ther will be plenty of camping. Another key: bug spray
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ricardol
Apr 9, 2004, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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getting a spot in camp4 during the memorial day weekend.. (or 4th of july).. requires grabbing your sleeping bag and sleeping in line at the ranger kiosk .. -- ricardo
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jerrygarcia
Apr 9, 2004, 11:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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try gremlin right/left/center on glacier point apron. If you get balsy, try monday morning slab at glacier point. If you call the day of your trip, you can usually get reservations from people cancelling.
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