|
10ftdrp
Apr 11, 2004, 4:50 AM
Post #1 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2004
Posts: 107
|
One of my friends just recently got me into climbing and we rappel for fun but im still uncomfortable how we rappel. basicly we set an anchor and throw both sides of the rope through a fig 8 and go for it no back up. ive seen the prussik knots on some of the searches ive done but is there any other way to back up rappels like this? Thanks PS if this has already been covered i missed it in my searches.
|
|
|
|
|
boltdude
Apr 11, 2004, 5:15 AM
Post #2 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
|
If you just got into climbing and rap for fun and you're uncomfortable about how you & your friends rap, then: 1) stop climbing and rappelling 2) hire a guide Don't try to learn about this stuff online.
|
|
|
|
|
thrasher
Apr 11, 2004, 5:32 AM
Post #3 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 603
|
Well, boltdude, that depends...if he is a liberal, let him keep doing it that way...
|
|
|
|
|
keithlester
Deleted
Apr 11, 2004, 7:49 PM
Post #4 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Tried the shunt? Petzl make it.
|
|
|
|
|
bubba
Apr 11, 2004, 7:53 PM
Post #5 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 284
|
Learn How to tie a prussik. They're cheap, easy, and they work well.
|
|
|
|
|
chugach001
Apr 11, 2004, 9:07 PM
Post #6 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 311
|
Also, learn how you can belay a rappel with belayer-tension from below. This will at least keep one of you safe.
|
|
|
|
|
mrdtm
Apr 11, 2004, 11:45 PM
Post #7 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 23
|
Also, learn how you can belay a rappel with belayer-tension from below. This will at least keep one of you safe.In reply to: well hes adressing the anchors.. if that was to break or come undone.. a firemans belay wouldnt do any good at all.. its good advice though.. just not an answer to this ?
|
|
|
|
|
mustclimb69
Apr 11, 2004, 11:50 PM
Post #8 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 479
|
WOW! Ok Prussick Kleimheist Autoblock Shunt Firemans belay Go climbing and on top rope. Then at the top have your belayer lower you and pretend your rapelling....That could be fun. and you would be on a 2:1 pully thus moving slower and increasing friction within the system
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Apr 12, 2004, 12:53 AM
Post #9 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
Please go buy fasulos's book, self rescue or something like htat. Read it. PRACTICE the auto block and the prussic before you actually need to have your life depend on it, make sure they are working properly.
|
|
|
|
|
coylec
Apr 12, 2004, 3:36 AM
Post #10 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 2024
|
In reply to: Well, boltdude, that depends...if he is a liberal, let him keep doing it that way... Not the first time you've said it. Still not funny. Evil conservatives. First you steal the White House, then thrust the US into a state of perpetual war (which is tramping civil rights) and now you're trying your hand at eugenics for control. Evil I say, EVIL. When Hilter came to power in Germany, the first thing the party did was burn the Reichstag and blame the communists. Started a constant state of tension in the country, trying to find political dissidents. You know what happened next. coylec
|
|
|
|
|
a_scender
Apr 12, 2004, 5:32 AM
Post #11 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 88
|
In reply to: Well, boltdude, that depends...if he is a liberal, let him keep doing it that way... Is this really necassary on a climbing website? Why don't you take that crap elsewhere. :evil:
|
|
|
|
|
nonick
Apr 12, 2004, 6:18 AM
Post #12 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2001
Posts: 174
|
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips.htm suggest u get someone to teach you.
|
|
|
|
|
flashsixteen
Apr 12, 2004, 12:29 PM
Post #13 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2002
Posts: 159
|
In reply to: PRACTICE the auto block and the prussic before you actually need to have your life depend on it, make sure they are working properly. Yes. This is also how you ascend. If you ever rappel to the end of your rope or for some reason need to climb back up the rope because something like your shirt gets caught in the eight, you use two of these to ascend back up. So make an autoblock or a prussic and ascent a little. Once you know they can hold you and you know how to use them, you will gain some confidence in them.
|
|
|
|
|
kman
Apr 12, 2004, 1:35 PM
Post #14 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
mrdtm said:
In reply to: well hes adressing the anchors...... How did you come to that conclusion sherlock? Try reading the post again.
|
|
|
|
|
mr8615
Apr 12, 2004, 2:02 PM
Post #15 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2004
Posts: 1032
|
If anything you do while climbing or raping makes you nervous, stop! Figure out what's making you nervous and be certain to learn from someone who actually knows what they're doing about the safety aspects that you're calling into question. Usually when you're rappeling just for fun you don't want to use a backup because it will slow your decent, but a fireman's belay is a must! The first person down should use a prussik or another backup discussed earlier in this post and then hold both ropes from below so he can pull them tight if the person on rappel losses control. Never ignore yourself if you feel unsafe!! Find out why and how to fix it so you're confident in what you're doing.
|
|
|
|
|
fitzontherocks
Apr 12, 2004, 3:00 PM
Post #16 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
|
mr8615 wrote: If anything you do while climbing or raping makes you nervous, stop! Rape is bad. Just say no to rape in every instance. Shame on you for raping. Once more, class: RAPPEL, RAPPELS, RAPPELLED, RAPPELLING. That's the way it's spelled. If you keep raping, you're going to have Ashcroft coming down hard on this site.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Apr 12, 2004, 5:13 PM
Post #17 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
In reply to: In reply to: Well, boltdude, that depends...if he is a liberal, let him keep doing it that way... Is this really necassary on a climbing website? Why don't you take that crap elsewhere. :evil: Easy there, in election years, people will be throwing out there opinions whereever they can fit them in. What bothers me is when instead of actually having a point they start name calling. As for thrasher, if by liberal, you mean someone who cares about the environment, wants health care for all, equal rights for men, women, homosexual and heterosexual, and would rather help other countries then bomb them, then i guess I am a liberal. I am sorry that wanting a peaceful world bothers you so much.
|
|
|
|
|
mrdtm
Apr 15, 2004, 8:39 PM
Post #18 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 23
|
In reply to: How did you come to that conclusion sherlock? Try reading the post again. ...hello?!?!? READ....
In reply to: One of my friends just recently got me into climbing and we rappel for fun but im still uncomfortable how we rappel. basicly we set an anchor and throw both sides of the rope through a fig 8 and go for it no back up. ive seen the prussik knots on some of the searches ive done but is there any other way to back up rappels like this? Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Apr 15, 2004, 9:00 PM
Post #19 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
just listen to Greg already. Hire a guide, your lives are worth it, since most of the time you WILL die if you botch a rappel.
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Apr 15, 2004, 9:07 PM
Post #20 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
The safest most reliable rappel backup is to find the down climb.
|
|
|
|
|
yay_chris
Apr 15, 2004, 9:30 PM
Post #21 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2004
Posts: 141
|
The Prusik knot is the easiest knot in the world to tie and is incredibly useful. Learn that knot first before rapping.
|
|
|
|
|
freeclimberchris
Apr 17, 2004, 1:14 AM
Post #22 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 21, 2003
Posts: 90
|
I use a prusik brake hand. It works real well. Although it does cause you to go really slow if you need to get down fast. But it will also save your life if the rappel device was to fail which is very important.
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimbtoo
Apr 17, 2004, 6:59 PM
Post #23 of 23
(5933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 309
|
ab
|
|
|
|
|
|