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metoliusmunchkin
Apr 12, 2002, 7:27 PM
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*I sure hope that this topic has not been made elsewhere*
Upon my last excursion to the foreign climbing gym, I noticed a rather disturbing flaw in my climbing technique. This of course concerned the most delicate art of clipping the rope into the quickdraw.
I know firstly that there is a certain fashion one must go about to properly clip in a rope to a quickdraw, to prevent the rope from being unhitched from the gate of the karabiner. I have known this for quite some time, however the way one must go about doing this is still a very clouded thought in my mind.
Also, I very well understand that one must place their fingers a particular way upon the rope, using certain fingers to grab the rope, and certain fingers to clip the rope into the lower biner. This is the second most clouded thought in my mind.
Though it is here where some personal experience of mine (which is not much) had come into play:
While I was climbing (top roping) up a very steep indoor rock route, I noticed that the rope ahead was clipped into one of the quickdraws above the most steep area of the overhang; to disallow the climbers fall and thus lead themselves across the entire climbing gym in a most dangerous swinging action.
So, as instructed (I had previously received some most precious beta concerning which jug to grab onto in order to unclip this dreaded rope once reaching this distinct point in the climb) I attempted my arduous task of un-clipping the rope.
I simply could not do it. I tried, and I tried, and I tried, and finally fell from the route in sheer exhaustion. My second attempt would prove better, I thought to myself. Again I climbed, quickly surpassing my previously dubbed 'hard areas' with ease, and now faced the dreaded quickdraw, sneering at me with its very gleam.
I tried to unclip the rope, and to no avail. This route was well within my difficulty range and grasp, though it was the quickdraw that posed the difficulty to me now. Again I fell from the route. Upon the third try however, I achieved this rather petty goal, and un-clipped the rope, and sent the route.
You get the general idea of my troubles with clipping the rope into quickdraws...
All I need now is some major technique tips to help me send this route with a little more ease upon the next trip to Joe Rockheads.
Thanks!
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mauta
Apr 12, 2002, 7:38 PM
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It seems that unclipping this draw is the route's crux !!!!
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bradhill
Apr 12, 2002, 8:38 PM
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Are you trying to open the gate and pull the rope out? It's much easier to re-clip the rope again so you have a bight that falls out of the 'biner.
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ace-11
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Apr 12, 2002, 9:54 PM
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I find unclipping the rope from the draws harder as well, especially when doing it in the middle of a difficult move. The way that I have been doing it is to put my fingers around the backside of the draw - pop it open and then push the rope out with my thumb. There are probably better ways of doing it, but this one seems to work fine for me.
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verticallaw
Apr 12, 2002, 10:12 PM
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I go with re-clipping the rope.especially on a T/R route as I have the rope already in position. On lead I find that unclipping is not an issue as well I should be clipping in I do however wonder about clipping in while on lead. I always clip in fron back to front of a biner that is sitting paralel to the wall. Is this correct or does it really matter. appologhies for typing as my boss is lurking down the hall.
Hidding in office
Mike
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robscate
Apr 12, 2002, 10:22 PM
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there are many different clipping techniques, the quick slam clip: bringing the rope quickly across and down on the gate. the finger roll the thumb gate etc....
just make sure that the rope comes out of the 'biner right. on vertical the rope should run up the wall in-between the 'biner and the rock and out of the biner (as it is facing you). if it isn't, it is back clipped a potentially dangerous situtation.
The easiest way to unclip, is to reclip the rope so a "bight" is now in the biner. This loop should fall out when done properly.
[ This Message was edited by: robscate on 2002-04-12 15:31 ]
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paintinhaler
Apr 12, 2002, 10:26 PM
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Go to http://www.climbingmotion.com/vg/then to the left search for "clipping". ClimbingMotion.com has videos on clipping. Hope this helps...
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daggerx
Apr 13, 2002, 12:56 AM
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WOW!!! you write alot. I may have been able to give some advice but I got bored reading all that and scanned to the reply key.
DaggerX
P.S. biner's start with with a C not a K.
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