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Pins stolen from Cathedral
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elron


Apr 15, 2004, 6:59 AM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2003
Posts: 480

Pins stolen from Cathedral  (Australasia: Australia: South_Australia: Adelaide: Pelican_Plaza: Storm_boy_wall)
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My apologies if this has already been posted here... I did a quick search, but didn't find anything. For anyone who is heading to North Conway, NH, be aware that fixed pins have been removed (most are saying stolen) from several climbs at Cathedral. The two climbs I saw mentioned specifically were Fun House and Upper Refuse. This is in addition to bolts that were chopped on Thin Air last fall, and missing pins on several climbs at Whitehorse.

For more info, check out www.neclimbs.com or http://www.chauvinguides.com/guidebook.htm


Kevin


elron


Apr 15, 2004, 7:30 AM
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Re: Pins stolen from Cathedral [In reply to]
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I didn't mean to draw a parallel between the bolt removal and the pin theft... just to say that the guidebook mentions both as being there, and that is no longer the case. Read the guidebook, but take it with a grain of salt and check with locals before committing to a climb with fixed pro. Especially in an area like N. Conway where there have been several instances of pin theft and bolt chopping over the past year or so.
As for the "concensus" about the bolt removal on Thin Air, I was at the meeting and the only thing approaching a concensus was the decision of the people there not to retro-bolt existing climbs in N. Conway... but this has been beat to death on NEClimbs.com, so no use rehashing it here :)

Kevin


shakylegs


Apr 15, 2004, 7:39 AM
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Re: Pins stolen from Cathedral [In reply to]
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Funny, I don't recall there being any pins on Fun House. Which is a climb that truly lives up to the name.
dbyte, really not to start a flame war, but I don't recall the chopper from Thin Air being a guide. Yes, we all know who it was, met him before the incident and found him to be a really nice guy. Second, there's still some question as to whether there really was a consensus; a bunch of people talked about it during a slideshow, he went and chopped them (un-needed as they were, but that's a whole other kettle of fish), and was man enough (in a non-sexist way) to declare his actions on the local board. Strange that he never mentioned bringing fireworks up on Cannon or partaking of the keg-in-the-crack-on-Moby-Grape, but whatever.

Chauvin is/are amazing when it comes to informing past clients about ongoing conditions in the area.

ETA: oops, just realised that elron talked about the consensus thing. Don't mind me.


edge


Apr 15, 2004, 7:52 AM
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Re: Pins stolen from Cathedral [In reply to]
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There was always a pin protecting the first corner on Funhouse. While not absolutely neccesary, it has been there for at least all 28 years that I have climbed there. It should have stayed there.

I personally agree with the bolts being removed from the Thin Air traverse, as they were placed solely for the convenience of guided ascents, although I think the belay bolts should have stayed as they had historical significance.

As someone who was written up in Climbing magazine for removing bolts in the mid-eighty's, I have always stayed the course about the North Conway ethic; rap bolting and convenience bolting have always been frowned upon. Certain routes that were put up using those techniques have remained (Ventilator) while others were made a scape goat (Room With a View). At this point I think that the bolts and pins that are present should remain, and the only new ones should be to replace and update the existing.

For what it's worth, last year I added a warning to the Cathedral data base on this website cautioning people about the fixed gear.


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