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Relative Skill vs Confidence
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dredsovrn


Apr 16, 2004, 7:20 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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Relative Skill vs Confidence
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I normally climb with a partner with far more leading and climbing experience than I have. This person is also very confident in their abilities, and never seems phased even on difficult run out leads. Sometimes, I even get nervous following on these routes. When I lead, I sometimes feel tentative about my decisions with my normal partner at the belay.

My normal partner has been doing a lot of guiding lately, and I have been climbing my brother-in-law. He is a focused individual and a trustworthy belayer, but probably about as far from me in skill and experience as I am from my normal climbing partner, perhaps more so. I find that I climb with greater confidence with my brother-in-law, even on the same routes I would normally climb with my regular partner.

It made me wonder about the mental processes taking place. I am the same person with the same ability with both people. I must feel a certain way in a "student roll" with a more skilled climber than I do in the "insturctor roll" with one less skilled. Does the instructor roll cause me to look within for the answer and the student looks out? If so, is there a practical way to apply this learning more broadly?


dirtineye


Apr 18, 2004, 10:15 PM
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Re: Relative Skill vs Confidence [In reply to]
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It would do you some good to forget about roles and try to just be a climber climbing with another climber.

I met this 14 year old girl yesterday, daugyter of a friend. she was inspiring to watch. SHe just climbed. not like a girl, just like a climber. NOt worried about mentoring or instuction or conforming to some role or anything but the climbing.

We shoudl all be so lucky.


dredsovrn


Apr 22, 2004, 6:27 AM
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Re: Relative Skill vs Confidence [In reply to]
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Well said. I don't think I had actively thought about being in one roll or the other, but when I noticed differences in confidence it started to stand out. I guess that is part of the continuing process of becoming conscious. Are we the only people who post here anymore?


dirtineye


Apr 23, 2004, 9:53 AM
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I hope not.


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