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Portaledge cooking
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epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 1:27 PM
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Portaledge cooking
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So last year I made my own big wall stove, much like the one several others have contrived out of an old aluminum pot. Problem is, I never did get to spend enough time on the wall to use it for vertical living and it remains un-christened in a "big wall" situation. Oh, sure -- I've hung it up outside and fired it up, but here's my big question. How the heck do you cook safely from a hanging belay with all those tender nylon products all around you? I mean, it's probably not as complicated as it seems since climbers do it on alpine routes all the time, but the act of starting a fire at your anchor to cook is somewhat on par with starting a chain saw from you ledge. Sure, it's all fine and dandy as long as the chain saw is pointing in the right direction, but just a little inattention and WHACK -- everything goes to hell.

Anyone care to check in with their tips and secrets for big wall cooking? Or should I just have the fire department down in the Meadow this summer with the super-soaker trained on Zodiac?

Ed


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Apr 19, 2004, 2:00 PM
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yo, ed!

just do the best you can. it's not like you've somehow namaged to soak all your webbing in gasoline or something like that (have you?). you'd really have to work at melting through things sufficiently to cause a catastrophic failure. then, again ... stranger things have happened, huh?

i [i:08f8de9fa2]would[/i:08f8de9fa2] be thinking about a good, old-fashioned case of CO poisoning, though.

and, by the way ... hanging yer stove outside the house and pretending is kinda', well ... dorky. :wink:

*never mind that once -- a long time ago -- i slept in my 'ledge suspended from the rafters in my home.*


flamer


Apr 19, 2004, 3:08 PM
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Ed,

If you are planning on cooking on zodiac, then you are taking WAY to much crap!!!

Stop reading that PTPP solar shower crap and get real.

You do want to make it UP (to the top that is!!) one of these routes right??

My suggestion to you is...look at all the crap you're taking...then leave the silliness at the base.

Oh!! And...HAVE FUN!!!

josh


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 3:15 PM
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LOL!!

Hey, I'm not going the PTPP way in terms of taking it easy, but I would like a freakin HOT MEAL now and then for the 5 or 6 nights I'll be on the wall.

It is sound advice to scrutinize everything that I'm taking. True. But the only difference between camping one night on the wall or six nights is how much food and water I'm bringing. Actually, if it were one or two nights -- no biggie -- I'd suck down some cold crap and call it good. But for nearly a week? Nah, like to look forward to a decent meal or two while I'm up there.

Ed


flamer


Apr 19, 2004, 3:41 PM
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Are you soloing, ed?

josh


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 3:46 PM
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Yup.


iamthewallress


Apr 19, 2004, 3:51 PM
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In reply to:
Hey, I'm not going the PTPP way in terms of taking it easy, but I would like a freakin HOT MEAL now and then for the 5 or 6 nights I'll be on the wall.

MREs?


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 3:55 PM
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Yeah, that's an option. I've had a hard time finding the ones with the heater packs, though. It would still be nice to have a stove along for hot beverages in case I have to wait out a storm.


iamthewallress


Apr 19, 2004, 4:00 PM
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http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/...MSS&Category_Code=16

They sell the heaters alone. Never bothered with it myself though, so I can't vouch for the company.


sandbag


Apr 19, 2004, 4:10 PM
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In reply to:
http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/...MSS&Category_Code=16

They sell the heaters alone. Never bothered with it myself though, so I can't vouch for the company.

Careful with them catalytic heaters, they not only get hot but give off Hydrogen gas as a by product of the reaction. They do get dman hot though and are light light light.....just add agua.


flamer


Apr 19, 2004, 4:16 PM
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give of Hydrogen gas

2 Rc.com folks in the meadow this summer...

#1:"Hey is that epic_ed up there on Zodiac??"

BOOM!!!

#2 "It was!!!"

:lol:

josh


akclimber


Apr 19, 2004, 4:25 PM
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Evidence :lol:


keinangst


Apr 19, 2004, 4:42 PM
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Exactly.

Hindenburg A2 5.10b IV
FA: epic_ed (RIP)


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 4:46 PM
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Wouldn't it be a lil more entertaining if we had a fire ball or two on El Cap every year? Not that I'm volunteering for this years entertainment, but I just might sell tickets and charge admission for the heck of it.

My stove? Hell NO, I'm not using my MSR Whisperlite. No white gas for me, thanks. I have a new WindPro (MSR), and my stove container needs a little modification from last years model since the WindPro is a side-bottle configuration instead of a top-mounted canister stove. I'll post some photos when I'm done.


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 4:47 PM
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Exactly.

Hindenburg A2 5.10b IV
FA: epic_ed (RIP)

:lol:

Route rating would be more like C1 5.2.


sandbag


Apr 19, 2004, 4:50 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Exactly.

Hindenburg A2 5.10b IV
FA: epic_ed (RIP)

:lol:

Route rating would be more like C1 5.2.

or even C4 6.7 on the Richter scale.......


Partner coylec


Apr 19, 2004, 4:58 PM
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i don't know bout your area, but all the army-navy stores have the whole packages. you've just got to find the entire meal package, not the main entree packages. they come with the heaters. if i see any, i'll drop you a pm.

coylec


xprompt


Apr 19, 2004, 5:13 PM
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http://www.actiongear.com/...alog%2Fresults%2Etam

there u go


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 5:44 PM
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Cool. That may be a better alternative. Just gotta make sure I get the edible meals. I've had a few in the past that were horrible (Tuna Mac -- YECK), and some that were down right decent.


Partner coylec


Apr 19, 2004, 6:34 PM
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threaddrift in action: i don't know if its good wall food, but the spagetti with vegetables is good eats.

coylec


flamer


Apr 19, 2004, 6:37 PM
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I'll make another plug for tasty bites...they would work great with MRE heaters.
If you're not into curry check out their website they have plenty of other stuff...

josh


n00b


Apr 19, 2004, 6:50 PM
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the tortelini (sp?) is good, and avoid the country captian chicken at all costs. just a suggestion for mre's


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Apr 19, 2004, 7:56 PM
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[quote:cdd890bffd="iamthewallress"]MREs?[/quote:cdd890bffd]

[quote:cdd890bffd="epic_ed"]Yeah, that's an option.[/quote:cdd890bffd]

[b:cdd890bffd]no! No! NO! [/b:cdd890bffd]take it from a 15-year marine: mre's (that's [b:cdd890bffd]m[/b:cdd890bffd]eals [b:cdd890bffd]r[/b:cdd890bffd]efused by [b:cdd890bffd]e[/b:cdd890bffd]veryone)are NOT an option! what the hell are you civilians [i:cdd890bffd]thinking[/i:cdd890bffd]?

those damned things will stop the daily special from coming down the tracks just as surely as if you'd just gone ahead and consumed quick-crete for six days.

then again ... you [i:cdd890bffd]would[/i:cdd890bffd] save the weight and hassle of taking yer poop tube. :wink:


mikeinidaho


Apr 19, 2004, 8:11 PM
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Here's what I have done when I cook.

I've only used a BIBLER hanging stove, so that's all I know.

Inside the ledge with the fly on is totally cramped and hard to deal with, if it's nice enough to cook with the fly off - do it that way.

1 - Pick a spot to hang the stove NOT centered from the hanging point of the ledge, hang it off to the side somewhere. Clear as much as possible away from the "live" area. Try and position it just ABOVE the webbing connected to the ledge from the inside corner up to the center point. Almost directly above the inside corner, but a few inches toward the center. I sit injun style facing the rock.

2 - If you are a team of two, one person cooks, and the other is the assistant - this is a RULE! Hang the stove on the side so it touches the rock face a little.

2 1/2 - Have everything all prepped and ready BEFORE you light the stove.

3 - Add an extra biner, so the heat doesn't melt the webbing it's hangin' from. (actually, I usually don't do this, but you should check this on any home-made set-up)

4 - Keep a water bottle handy to douse a flare up.

5 - Keep the pot grips handy.

The flame itself will probably not be a liability. The pot system itself will get berzerkly hot, beware! Two cans of soup for two people isn't enough. Add water, cheeze and crackers. One eats out of the pot, the other eats out of the empty can. No need to boil the soup, your fingers will be so sensitive you wont be able to hold the can (or pot) anyway. Warm enough for wolfing.

At night I leave the stove hanging, ready to go for Coffee. I duct-tape the lid in place.

Coffee is the real reason to bring a stove. If you run out of fuel, your freekin' screwed! So conserve at diner time. You can eat cold cans of soup.

Cooking inside the fly in a storm --- More than any other tip; BOTH you and your partner need to be active in the cooking process. Nobody sleeps!. Have a water battle in your pocket to douse out any flare up. Vent as best you can. Have everything all prepped and ready BEFORE you light the stove. Move everything away from the "live" area, double biners, and be careful! Feel the area above the stove and monitor if it's getting too hot.[brown][/brown]


epic_ed


Apr 19, 2004, 8:32 PM
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Excellent! Exactly the kind of input I was looking for. Coffee is supremely important, but I usually cut some time out of my morning ritual by tossing down two of those Starbuck's DoubleShot do-hickies. Gives me the caffine I need plus satiates the craving for something coffee flavored.

Geo -- the quik-crete effect may be an added bonus, not a detriment. I'll give 'em a test run first but I have yet to find anything that slows down my fudge factory.

Ed

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