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Lover's Leap or Phantom Spires this weekend?
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salparadise


Apr 23, 2004, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 52

Lover's Leap or Phantom Spires this weekend?  (North_America: United_States: California: Lake_Tahoe: Phantom_Spires)
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Hello,


Anyone know the current conditions of these two crags? Unfortunatly, I can't camp so I'm looking on doing a day trip from the Bay Area on Monday (from Oakland). Which crag will allow me to climb the most moderate routes in the limited time that I will have there (with the 5 hours of driving that I will do that day)? I've never climbed at either, should I save lover's leap for when I can spend the night?

Thanks,
Sal


sierramike


Apr 23, 2004, 6:53 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Re: Lover's Leap or Phantom Spires this weekend? [In reply to]
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Phantom Spires is excellent right now and there are a fair number of moderates ("moderate being a relative term, that is).

Recommendations:
Upper Spire
Fear of Flying---5.10a
Ginger Bread---5.7
North Ridge---5.6
Middle Spire
Lean and Mean---5.9
The Prow----5.10a
Cornflakes----5.9 (best to toprope from "Lean and Mean" anchors
Over Easy---5.7
Uncle Max
The Clown---5.8
Mean Moe---5.10c (thin, but good gear)
Lower Spire
Five Tendons---5.10d (opening move is the crux, then it's 5.10a to the top. Bolt at your head protecting the crux.)

This should get you started. Wait a few weeks for the Leap to really dry out. Like you asked, it is better to wait until you have a weekend as there stacks to do. You can spend an entire weekend on the East Wall alone.

Sugarloaf is outstanding as well and 10 minutes closer to the Bay area on Hwy. 50.

Have fun.

Mike


salparadise


Apr 23, 2004, 11:56 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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Re: Lover's Leap or Phantom Spires this weekend? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the great info - I think that I will go there and see how many I can climb in a day.


crackboy


Apr 25, 2004, 11:04 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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Re: Lover's Leap or Phantom Spires this weekend? [In reply to]
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hey is fear of flying 10a with or without the variation? i did that last time i was there thinking it was a 9 before i started up.

i would second ginger bread, it looked like a lot of fun


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