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dredsovrn
May 2, 2004, 11:07 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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Yesterday I took my first two trad lead falls. In retrospect, I did not breath deep, I did not have soft eyes, and did overgrip. I held my breath and was scared to death. Way overgripped and focused on one hold. I fell twice.
After the first short fall I went further. I fell again, only this time a longer fall. I'm not sure I took more than one or two breaths the entire time. The route was a 5.10a roof.
Third times a charm. In the middle of the roof, feeling pumped out, my belayer yelled breathe. I did. I pulled the roof and the climb went down.
My best lead prior to this was 5.5, although I have climbed 5.11 on TR. I am still learning to follow the way, but what made the difference for me this time was that I believed the roof would go down. I never doubted that it was possible, so I never gave up.
Thanks for listening.
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dirtineye
May 3, 2004, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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Funny how oxygen helps ain't it?
Congratulations on your lead.
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jt512
May 3, 2004, 5:21 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: The route was a 5.10a roof...My best lead prior to this was 5.5...
A 5-number-grade increase in leading ability is, um, pretty good.
-Jay
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