Forums: Clubs: Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way:
First Trad Lead Falls
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dredsovrn


May 2, 2004, 4:07 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226

First Trad Lead Falls
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Yesterday I took my first two trad lead falls. In retrospect, I did not breath deep, I did not have soft eyes, and did overgrip. I held my breath and was scared to death. Way overgripped and focused on one hold. I fell twice.

After the first short fall I went further. I fell again, only this time a longer fall. I'm not sure I took more than one or two breaths the entire time. The route was a 5.10a roof.

Third times a charm. In the middle of the roof, feeling pumped out, my belayer yelled breathe. I did. I pulled the roof and the climb went down.

My best lead prior to this was 5.5, although I have climbed 5.11 on TR. I am still learning to follow the way, but what made the difference for me this time was that I believed the roof would go down. I never doubted that it was possible, so I never gave up.

Thanks for listening.


dirtineye


May 3, 2004, 10:05 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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Re: First Trad Lead Falls [In reply to]
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Funny how oxygen helps ain't it?

Congratulations on your lead.


jt512


May 3, 2004, 10:21 AM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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Re: First Trad Lead Falls [In reply to]
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The route was a 5.10a roof...My best lead prior to this was 5.5...

A 5-number-grade increase in leading ability is, um, pretty good.

-Jay


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