Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
Leading indoors vs. outdoors
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


climbchickky


Apr 22, 2002, 3:06 PM
Post #1 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 8, 2002
Posts: 15

Leading indoors vs. outdoors
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i can toprope in the gym and would like to try leading soon(sport), but i was wondering what is the main difference between leading indoors and outdoors.


joemor


Apr 22, 2002, 5:37 PM
Post #2 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 2, 2001
Posts: 609

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

appart from one being on rock the other plastic, the main difference is ondoors the draws are already attached to the wall. whereas out doors you have to place the draws and clip as you climb, not to say that u cant rap and place the draws and then climb like a gym, i think its called a pinkpoint if u preplace gear.


joe


dsafanda


Apr 22, 2002, 5:45 PM
Post #3 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 5, 2002
Posts: 1025

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

And the draws tend to be twice as close together as what you will find outdoors.

Nevertheless, the gym is great place to learn and to get used to falling. The gym is the perfect place to push yourself and fall frequently with out fear of cratering.


jt512


Apr 22, 2002, 5:45 PM
Post #4 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Indoors, the draws are (usually) in place. Outdoors, you have to put them up yourself (no fair always making your boyfriend do it). This takes more energy than clipping a pre-placed draw. Also, you have to understand in which direction to orient the draw -- gates facing right or left -- as dictated by the rock features and direction of the climb, and when to use long draws to reduce rope drag.

You also have to know the length of the route and whether your rope is long enough for it, how to rappel, how to clean your draws off the top anchors, and how to judge the quality of the bolts. I'm sure there are other skills I've neglected to mention. If you want to lead multi-pitch sport, there is more to learn.

-Jay


studmuffin


Apr 22, 2002, 7:01 PM
Post #5 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 30, 2001
Posts: 53

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i've lead indoors and outdoors, and the only real difference is that i think indoor is safer. 1)you really don't have to worry about the bolts or draws being bad 2)it's easier to clip into the draws and thus you avoid a fall by saving energy and most importantly 3)you don't have to worry about some huge ledge or protrusion or anything sticking out from the wall or anything for you foot to go INTO. So, leading indorrs is safer, plus, the draws are way closer together than they are outdoors. But, have fun, be safe, look good.
peace out
Justin


beyond_gravity


Apr 22, 2002, 7:36 PM
Post #6 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5076

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I used to be a top rope rat, but after I started leading I havent gone back to top roping. the gym that says i'm "too young" to top rope has lost my 3 days a week business because they wont let me lead


miagi


Apr 23, 2002, 8:50 AM
Post #7 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 1087

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If your gym has sport climbs available, try them out first with one of the staff members. You can get use to falling, the mental blocks, and technique of clipping. For your first time outdoors, lead easier routes than you normally climb with someone thats experienced.

I hope you have fun. Leading is a blast!


ravens_wing_jim


Apr 23, 2002, 12:07 PM
Post #8 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 396

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Before you lead outdoors,
you need to learn the proper procedure
for lowering off from the anchor after
you finish the route.
This is one of the most important things
you'll need to know,
and you NEED to know it!
Just make sure you go with an experianced
climber who can show you how.
Theres no room for guess work here,
learn to keep yer butt safe.


Partner phylp


Apr 23, 2002, 6:46 PM
Post #9 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 175

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In addition to all of the above:
*the quality of the rock itself - you should know how to recognize when a block or flake is loose/semi-detached, so you don't pull it off on you or your belayer.
*Routefinding! The holds outside don't have tape on then - you have to figure out for yourself what to use. Chalk can help but it can also sucker you into the same wrong moves everybody else did.


inflight


Apr 23, 2002, 7:34 PM
Post #10 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2002
Posts: 172

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Also keep in mind that if you fall before the first clip, you may not be landing into a freindly pile of loose pebbles that absorb your fall. The landings can be different and more prone to injury.

I suggest you have an experience belayer who has belayed a leader before. There is no room for error.


crux_clipper


Apr 28, 2002, 1:13 AM
Post #11 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2001
Posts: 531

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I find that outdoors can be a little easier. I recently onsighted a 21, and found that bolts were placed next to bood jugs, for safety reasons.

However, indoors, a climb is always solid, with it being full of crimps, slopers or pinches. There is no real fluctuation. Therefore, clips are closer together, but next to crap holds.

Outdoors, God is incharge of the holds, and won't always place hard holds all the way up. The rock can differ in a matter of meters, from crimp-fests, to jug-a-thons.


treyr


Apr 28, 2002, 6:30 AM
Post #12 of 12 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 22, 2001
Posts: 549

Leading indoors vs. outdoors [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think outdoors is harder for some reason that I cannot explain

Trob


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook