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inedia
May 15, 2004, 4:55 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2004
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Ive been seriousley climbing for about 3 years, about a year and a half ago I began leading trad climbs. I love it, but so as to avoid acidents ive been working my way up the grades very slowly which now puts me leading comfortably up to 5.8 on trad, which is about 2 full grades below my ability. I went to the leap last year and ended up doing knapsack crack on the hogsback. Since then I have fine tuned my trad technique on donner summit. Ive completed a few multipitch 5.6 trad climbs and even managed to do a pitch of 5.8 crack. I feel like im ready to lead a full 5.7 route and now that winters history my first chance will be next week. Im going to be at the leap for two days. The first day I want to do Pop botle on East wall and than crowd permitting corrugation corner the next. I have both of the guides for these routes and both seem fairly straight forward. I just would really like some info on what to expect from these routes and maybe a heads up on the more dificult sections of them. I know climbing is about the thrill of adventure, but for now im enjoying the thrill of learning. If you have some info I would be more than greatfull to recieve it. Thank You
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tahoe_rock_master
May 15, 2004, 5:24 PM
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I went to the leap for the first time last weekend. I didn't do either of these routes, but I heard corrrugation corner is good. You should do Haystack. It is an 5.8, but there is only one 5.8 move pulling over a roof on the second pitch, the rest is 5.7 or easier. It is three pitches, I would highly recomended it, it is really fun. Takes great pro.
Matt
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sspssp
May 15, 2004, 5:52 PM
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Corrugation Corner is an excellent route. However, it is a stiff lead for 5.7. It is not what I would call runout. However, there are a couple of sections that cannot be "sewn up." I'm thinking particularly when you first leave the corner and move left across the face to the arrete (sorry, can't remember what pitch). The gear in this part is limited and it is a little tricky.
Bear's Reach and even some of the 5.8s (Haystack and East Corner) are easier leads (in my humble opinion) than Corrugation.
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caughtinside
May 15, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Corregation has only a couple 5.7 moves, and they're on pitch 2. Pitches 1 and 3 are 5.6. The route is well protected, and pitch 2, the crux pitch is protected by numerous fixed pins.
It's a classic route, with great moves. I don't think I did a single hand jam on it.
You should also consider doing Surrealistic Pillar on the lower buttress, another 5.7 leap classic.
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sspssp
May 15, 2004, 7:13 PM
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There may be only a couple of 5.7 moves, but they still have to be lead, and they are some distance above fixed pins (with limited opportunities for your own gear). I explicitly said it was not extremely runout. However, the crux moves are not places where you would want to fall. The fall would be unpleasant, assuming the pin holds (and who knows how good an old pin is). So I wouldn't recommend this route for a fledgling 5.7 leader. There are other moderate routes at the leap where the cruxes can be sewn up. Not trying to talk anyone out of it (it is a great route), but more trying to give a heads up.
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caughtinside
May 16, 2004, 7:57 PM
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sspssp: Point taken. However, I still think it's doable for a fledgling 5.7 leader with no fear of a little exposure. There are great stances where you can shake out and think things over.
Acutally, I was just having a conversation this morning with a partner about 'route descriptions' in guides, particularly in Supertopo.
I've decided to stop reading them, because they play up moves as 'wild' 'exposed' 'for the solid 5.x leader' that I've disagreed with every time. I don't need Chris Mac psyching me out! Funny thing is, I've never had a problem with any of the moves he's described.
I guess my point is, trust the grade. It is my opinion, that if you can lead 5.7 trad, Corregation Corner is going to be an awesome route for you.
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