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merock


May 17, 2004, 9:40 PM
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no no no wait...... I think it is really important that we rate this thing that we will never climb...... this is very very important that WE rate this climb..... lets continue


curt


May 17, 2004, 9:49 PM
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Didn't Dai do a new problem on his home turf that he said was a V15 or harder. I remember reading something but don't have my facts straight. Anyone care to elaborate?
Props to Dai for the HM send, linkup or not. Though I am waiting for that true hard boulder problem - the one that has the V16 move or sequence. Who's gonna step up to the plate?

Three of them were done 20 years ago kid. None of them have been repeated. Go for glory and get the second ascent of AHR, Meathook or Slapshot.

Curt


wyattearp


May 17, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Didn't Dai do a new problem on his home turf that he said was a V15 or harder. I remember reading something but don't have my facts straight. Anyone care to elaborate?
Props to Dai for the HM send, linkup or not. Though I am waiting for that true hard boulder problem - the one that has the V16 move or sequence. Who's gonna step up to the plate?

Three of them were done 20 years ago kid. None of them have been repeated. Go for glory and get the second ascent of AHR, Meathook or Slapshot.

Curt

where would we find these climbs at curt?


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:06 PM
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Well you may be right about that Curt. Of course, wasn't the guy who did Meathook like 8' sasquatch tall and could reach the hideous underclings. I'm not familiar with the other two you mentioned. What I was really focusing on was moves that are so difficult yet people of varying heights could still do them... if they had the strength. It's the thing that separates link-ups from what I said before about true 'boulder' problems. It also reveals the achilles heal of the B-system, which isn't just number chasing. Whats wrong with number chasing anyway? That's one of the things that has spurred me on over the years, I'm way past my bouldering prime but I still like to see what the kids are pulling on.


curt


May 17, 2004, 10:08 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Didn't Dai do a new problem on his home turf that he said was a V15 or harder. I remember reading something but don't have my facts straight. Anyone care to elaborate?
Props to Dai for the HM send, linkup or not. Though I am waiting for that true hard boulder problem - the one that has the V16 move or sequence. Who's gonna step up to the plate?

Three of them were done 20 years ago kid. None of them have been repeated. Go for glory and get the second ascent of AHR, Meathook or Slapshot.

Curt

where would we find these climbs at curt?

The first two (AHR and Slapshot) are in Boulder, Colorado, ever heard of it? The third is at Horsetooth Reservoir in Ft. Collins, CO. All three were first done by Jim Holloway.

Curt


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Bummer about that AA move Wyatt, hope your at least getting a higher education and not chasing a paycheck. Boulder on! (even if it is at Grand Ledge or Planet Rock)


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:15 PM
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Curt, I knew he did Meathook but did not know he fired the other two as well. Your an older wiser gentleman than most of the kids here, maybe you can tell us why these problems have resisted all suitors. What was it about Jim that made him tougher than or the problems hard enough to still be unrepeated by all other climbers?


wyattearp


May 17, 2004, 10:16 PM
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Thanks Dude, but I have been thinking about this today, V14 is like 5.14d (correct?__0 SO i f someone lcimbed lets say a 14d into another 14d, would they rate it as 14d? Thats bASICALLY what Dai did, exept for bouldering grades, I meant sharma;s revoultion, Suppeosed 15a is noly a 14c, into a 30 move Problem that goes at v12/13, so how does it go at 5.15 a ,, MAn grades are so whackl! :? :D


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Aussie Tim O'neal has a formula he has come up with on his website that always makes me chuckle:

To determine the V-grade of a linkup

(Va + Vb + 4) / 2

where Va is the grade of the first problem
and Vb is the grade of the second problem.

I think is a bit tongue n cheek but works quite well nonetheless.


wyattearp


May 17, 2004, 10:29 PM
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In reply to:
Aussie Tim O'neal has a formula he has come up with on his website that always makes me chuckle:

To determine the V-grade of a linkup

(Va + Vb + 4) / 2

where Va is the grade of the first problem
and Vb is the grade of the second problem.

I think is a bit tongue n cheek but works quite well nonetheless.

So according to this V14 + v14 + 4 /2 = V16 FINALLY!!!!!


curt


May 17, 2004, 10:29 PM
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Curt, I knew he did Meathook but did not know he fired the other two as well. Your an older wiser gentleman than most of the kids here, maybe you can tell us why these problems have resisted all suitors. What was it about Jim that made him tougher than or the problems hard enough to still be unrepeated by all other climbers?

Well, I suspect it is simply because they are so hard, and Holloway is the best boulderer in the history of bouldering. Holloway was tall--that is true. But he had a negative ape index and other tall boulderers have also attempted these Holloway problems and failed.

Curt


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:34 PM
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Wyatt, many people grade higher for things that add up. Like many 5.12 moves equalling a 5.13 grade. For instance the Spaniard who claimed .15c for his 270' overhanging pitch with the hardest move like V12 (.14c). Some people or places grade specifically on hardest move for example climbs at Devils Tower have enduro pitches with 5.9 moves for 150' graded 5.9. Go figure. Everything is relative so take it with a grain of salt, plus it helps to have that kind of info before hand if you're gonna pitch yourself at something.


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Holloways light did shine bright in the realm of hard bouldering, there is even an area named after him here in WY. I don't know if I would call anyone the best in the history of best though.


curt


May 17, 2004, 10:41 PM
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Holloways light did shine bright in the realm of hard bouldering, there is even an area named after him here in WY. I don't know if I would call anyone the best in the history of best though.

Really? Then why haven't the "best of the best" been able to repeat any of Holloway's hardest boulder problems? Do you perhaps think they regard it better to ignore them, so as not to fail miserably?

Curt


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:45 PM
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Yes Wyatt, Finally.
Now lets apply it to Tonino '78:
(V10 + V14 + 4)/2 = V14
Interesting how simple things are
when you have a math formula.

It's kinda funny but it kinda works too


wyclimber


May 17, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Curt, Perhaps we should contract Petzl to bring them (the best) all together to Colorado to have a wankfest and see what happens. Wait, we are talking about Colorado here aren't we? Nevermind


curt


May 17, 2004, 11:00 PM
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Curt, Perhaps we should contract Petzl to bring them (the best) all together to Colorado to have a wankfest and see what happens. Wait, we are talking about Colorado here aren't we? Nevermind

I would love to see the world's best boulderers of today assemble and try to repeat any of Holloway's "big three" problems. Many of the greatest boulderers of the past have tried and failed. Guys like Sherman, Mammen, Twinam, Jones, Williams, Moffatt, Moon, and many lesser figures including myself have tried and failed.

Curt


wyattearp


May 17, 2004, 11:10 PM
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Yes Wyatt, Finally.
Now lets apply it to Tonino '78:
(V10 + V14 + 4)/2 = V14
Interesting how simple things are
when you have a math formula.

It's kinda funny but it kinda works too

exactly that what im syaing Dia Send of King of the Cave should be the first V16!


curt


May 17, 2004, 11:17 PM
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In reply to:
Yes Wyatt, Finally.
Now lets apply it to Tonino '78:
(V10 + V14 + 4)/2 = V14
Interesting how simple things are
when you have a math formula.

It's kinda funny but it kinda works too

exactly that what im syaing Dia Send of King of the Cave should be the first V16!

Except, of course, for those problems that preceeded him by 20 years and that he can't repeat.

Curt


wyattearp


May 17, 2004, 11:19 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Yes Wyatt, Finally.
Now lets apply it to Tonino '78:
(V10 + V14 + 4)/2 = V14
Interesting how simple things are
when you have a math formula.

It's kinda funny but it kinda works too

exactly that what im syaing Dia Send of King of the Cave should be the first V16!

Except, of course, for those problems that preceeded him by 20 years and that he can't repeat.

Curt

Curt Do you honeslt know If Dai has even tried Halloways problems,>? E


curt


May 17, 2004, 11:28 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Yes Wyatt, Finally.
Now lets apply it to Tonino '78:
(V10 + V14 + 4)/2 = V14
Interesting how simple things are
when you have a math formula.

It's kinda funny but it kinda works too

exactly that what im syaing Dia Send of King of the Cave should be the first V16!

Except, of course, for those problems that preceeded him by 20 years and that he can't repeat.

Curt

Curt Do you honeslt know If Dai has even tried Halloways problems,>? E

I know it is "Holloway" and that nobody (Dai included) has repeated any of them. If he has not tried, that is his issue to deal with.

Curt


joemor


May 18, 2004, 12:07 AM
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you guys are all losers.....

who cares how its graded... the fact is, someone did this fckn hard line.... ive felt the holds seen the moves and he gets big props in my books for his achievements....

i think you guys need to get out more and stop bitching and moaning on the net all fckn day.....

get a life losers!


curt


May 18, 2004, 12:15 AM
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you guys are all losers.....

who cares how its graded... the fact is, someone did this fckn hard line.... ive felt the holds seen the moves and he gets big props in my books for his achievements....

i think you guys need to get out more and stop b---- and moaning on the net all fckn day.....

get a life losers!

Oh, well then if you have felt the holds, I will certainly defer to you. Jackass.

Curt


wyattearp


May 18, 2004, 12:52 AM
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you guys are all losers.....

who cares how its graded... the fact is, someone did this fckn hard line.... ive felt the holds seen the moves and he gets big props in my books for his achievements....

i think you guys need to get out more and stop b---- and moaning on the net all fckn day.....

get a life losers!

You what crawled up your as$, you refer to everyone in theis thread as a loser, beacuse you have felt the holds, and we havent, geta life Aussie, SUcker!!!!


ringbearer


May 18, 2004, 1:11 AM
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if any of you guys wondered how dai performs on that rock, have a look here

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