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timhinck
Apr 21, 2002, 9:26 AM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2001
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The question I pose is: Does style really matter on a little boulder?? I mean, sure it matters on big alpine routes or maybe on trad routes where bolting comes into question. But who really cares whether a boulder problem was done in good style or not.
I have a friend who scrubs the chalk tick marks off of problems when he sees them. He feels that ticking problems is unnecesarry and turns the boulderfield into a gym. What about cheater stones or even shoes and chalk??
One of my personal frustrations is the fact that onsighting has become so common. From my perspective, onsighting should be a rare and special occurance, not an everyday goal. It should happen when you go to a new area and happen upon a sweet line and send it first try, only to find out that it was an area testpiece and you got the onsight. And flashing has become almost as bad. Some boulderers even go as far as to feel all the holds on a problem, watch others meticulously gaining every shred of beta... saving it all up for the "FLASH". Where is the style in that??
Then there are climbers who climb in plain bad style. They yell and scream at each other... they climb drunk and high off their ass... they show little or no respect for the rock or for nature. They jump on a problem one after another with the dignity of pilaging gang-bangers.
Personally, when I see someone climb with bad style, especially on boulders, it makes me mad. But not mad enough to try to take away their right to climb in bad style if they chose.
peace,
tim
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overlord
Apr 21, 2002, 1:00 PM
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In my opinion, your buddies are CHEATERS. Feeling the hold , although your feet are on the ground should count for climbig, because on big routes you cant get to the hold to feel them, and if you do you have to at least A0 the route. That is called trainong the route and hat makes these "flashes" redpoints. I`m ok about the beta, but feeling the holds, come on.
Anyway, stile does matter, and on-sights of difficult problems are rare, but anyone can onsight some jug filled slab .
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old_school
Apr 22, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Yea, fealing holds is pathetic. I'd deffinetly say that is a red point, even if you climb it first try. It would be just like taking a photo of the boulder and every hold, then going home and setting the problem up on your wall, climb it for a while and then show up knowing the moves by heart before even touching the boulder. You can then climb it and argue that you never watched anyone climb it or get any advice. All you did was look at it. That would be really pathetic.
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timhinck
Apr 23, 2002, 7:50 AM
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The newest edition of VBouldering magazine has an article explaining how "you too can learn to onsight quicker". There is even a picture of Jason Campbell on a ladderpointing out beta to Steph Forte. Then they tell you that if you MUST give up the Onsight, at least get the 2nd!!
Wow. Talk about getting your priorities straight!!
tim
[ This Message was edited by: timhinck on 2002-04-23 07:51 ]
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boretribe
Apr 26, 2002, 12:31 AM
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gotta disagree with you on the crash pad issue beerandblood, walking around on crutches for two months with a fractured heel changed my mind.
Down climb, always! Intentionally jumping down is like taking an intentional whipper. It's stupid.
Feeling the holds before hand is the same as hangdogging lazy! Always start from the first hold and go up from there. It builds strength and skill.
My style for true bouldering satisfaction:
Go solo at least 70% of the time.
Leave the guide book at home and just look for the lines that appeal to you
F_ck the grades. Who the hell cares what you can climb. Are you having fun? Well then enough said.
Always start from the first hold.
I'm sure there's more but I'm tired.
Crash pads good, especially when bouldering on a weekday morning, solo, at Horse Flats.
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boretribe
Apr 26, 2002, 1:36 AM
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beerandblood
well I guess that's as close as I'll get to sport climbing then. Maybe when I get a little more skill/controll and grow some nads I'll come around.
I would love to hook up. I'll let you know the next time I plan on heading up.
ps. Thanks for adding the photo to the Horse Flats page. I finally remembered to bring a camera when I went up last Sunday morning. I should be uploading them soon to help spruce up the HF section.
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